Some 7mgte Motor Questions ?

[fonz87]

I have bunch of questions that i need answers for and if anyone can help me, i would appreciate it.

i was planning on doing a 2jzna this summer but i changed my mind and i m sticking with the 7m, i just want to see what the 7m can do for a while.

My questions are:

- Whats the easiest way or safest way to pull a motor ? Planning on cleaning the bay and clean the motor and everything else. Do everything right.
Tips and advice needed! this will be my first time pulling the motor.

- I was planning on ordering ebay gasket set, not planning on using the headgasket but other gaskets for the manifold and other things, has anyone done this ?? if so, what are the up's and down's ??

- Doing a 1.2 Hks Mhg.

- Arp Studs, Question about the studs, Do they fit right in the stock headbolts, or would I have to do anything to fit them in right ? As in, they direct fit or would i have to order a tap kit of driftmotion or make them fit ?

- Planning on taking the Egr out since i live in chicago, no need for egr!
what are the up's and down's of removing it ?

-I bought a spare head, planning to do a resurface, how much should i have them remove from the head ??

I m pretty sure i got more questions but i can't think of them right now.

thanks

 

[Tire Shredder]

I have bunch of questions that i need answers for and if anyone can help me, i would appreciate it.

i was planning on doing a 2jzna this summer but i changed my mind and i m sticking with the 7m, i just want to see what the 7m can do for a while.

My questions are:

- Whats the easiest way or safest way to pull a motor ? Planning on cleaning the bay and clean the motor and everything else. Do everything right.
Tips and advice needed! this will be my first time pulling the motor.

- I was planning on ordering ebay gasket set, not planning on using the headgasket but other gaskets for the manifold and other things, has anyone done this ?? if so, what are the up's and down's ??

- Doing a 1.2 Hks Mhg.

- Arp Studs, Question about the studs, Do they fit right in the stock headbolts, or would I have to do anything to fit them in right ? As in, they direct fit or would i have to order a tap kit of driftmotion or make them fit ?

- Planning on taking the Egr out since i live in chicago, no need for egr!
what are the up's and down's of removing it ?

-I bought a spare head, planning to do a resurface, how much should i have them remove from the head ??

I m pretty sure i got more questions but i can't think of them right now.

thanks

- I like to leave the harness on the motor. Disconnect the ECU and pull the harness from the firewall, leave it all one unit. just take it slow and make sure everything is disconnected. I can almost guarantee you will forget one ground wire somewhere so take it easy. leave the tranny on the car, jack the front up as high as possible to give max clearance. You will have to be careful not to damage the brake lines on the firewall with the transmission.

-I've ordered the ebay gaskets one of the reportedly "good" ones and am regretting it now. buy a toyota set. they are pricey but don't question it. just do it. I've got to drop my tranny and take the timing belt off again to replace the main seals again now. you DON'T want to do this again.

- don't pick a metal headgasket thickness until you've seen the condition of your head and block. have them machined to the best RA value you can get ( they may require more shaving than you think). once this is done THEN pick the thickness to compensate for the material removed.

- I don't know about the bolts. somebody else might. as far as I know they are a direct fit but you will need a thin walled socket (purchased or modified) to fit into the head to tighten them.

- Pro of removal - slightly lower intake manifold temperature and less carbon buildup in the intake. Con of removal - increased NOX emissions, increased combustion temperatures (and thus great chance of detonation), poor fuel economy. Perhaps worst of all the USDM ECU will be giving incorrect (far too advanced) timing also increasing the chances of knock. This really should not be on your radar at all unless you have a JDM ecu which expects the egr to be blocked. However,many seem to get away with it...but they should be aware they have a reduced safety margin. There really is no good reason to remove it. I recommend leaving it on for the reasons listed above. Do a search, this has been beaten to death.

-remove as little material as necessary for a flat and smooth surface. have the machine shop check for material hardness (consistency) and warpage before you start any work. Often people can machine a head several times due to warpage and not understand that the cam journarls have also been warped and not corrected.

 

[kingsupra]

Tire shredder cover basically everything. but i'll give a lil input.

getting the motor out is fairly simple or straight forward. slow is the best way of getting it out. be careful not to swing and smash your windshield

ebay gasket sets are horrible. the paper gaskets are flimsy and tear easy. a lot of seals dont fit properly and arent very durable. and some pieces are just cut horribly wrong and wont fit.

the apr head studs are direct exchange but you might need the tap just to clear out a nice path. the studs can sometimes be stubborn going in. remember when putting in the stud hand tight only.

 

[Tire Shredder]

the apr head studs are direct exchange but you might need the tap just to clear out a nice path. the studs can sometimes be stubborn going in. remember when putting in the stud hand tight only.

I almost forgot. Put the head studs in AFTER the head has been sat on the headgasket and block. many put the headstuds on first but this just drastically increases the chances of you scratching the gasket surface. The dowel pins in the surface of the head are there to locate the gasket and head during installation...use them!

don't use paper gaskets. buy some of this stuff. when properly applied is far superior to a paper gasket. I've heard of paper gaskets leaking oil or water THROUGH them. The only place they are acceptable IMO is the intake manifolds.

don't put brake quiet or copper spray (anything) on the metal headgasket. They are already prepared for installation when you purchase them.

lastly, read all the posts in the engine/mechanical forum. almost everything you asked (and then some) is covered there.

 

[shaeff]

I almost forgot. Put the head studs in AFTER the head has been sat on the headgasket and block. many put the headstuds on first but this just drastically increases the chances of you scratching the gasket surface. The dowel pins in the surface of the head are there to locate the gasket and head during installation...use them!

I like to put one stud in each side (long ways), diagonal from each other. Makes lining it up super easy.

Also, check out this thread, it's a walk-through of pulling the 7M:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423&highlight=remove+7m

 

[Mk3runner]

I used clear silicone on the motor minus the hg, pan, water pump, and exhaust. a toyota gasket set is around 500 last time I checked. I pieced mine from napa auto parts and toyota. I did all injector seals. damn they cost grip at dealer.

 

[fonz87]

thanks guys, i m going to stay away from the ebay gaskets.

How hard is it to take the drive shaft out when pulling the motor ?? or atleast disconnecting it from the trans ?

I m going to be pulling the motor with the trans so i can clean the underside of the car and well as clean the trans also.

 

[sneakypete]

the driveshaft should drop off when you pull the motor... getting it back on can sometimes be a pain
-pete

 

[Rennat]

like pete said, it just slides out, make sure you drain the fluid BEFORE you pull the engine.

Putting it back in can be a bit of a pain... especially when its just yourself underneath it and you just finished dropping the motor in.

Head Studs:
the only problem i see about putting them in after is you dont know if there actually all the way down into the hole. you dont want them tight, but you need to make sure they dont get stuck on something in the threads. Which you should have cleaned 2 or 3 times before you even though about sticking that brand new stud in the hole. USE THE DOWEL PINS. and i put all of my studs in, i really dont see how you can damage the deck of the head, unless you slip and drop the head onto the stud... but thats not being careful. and make sure you use plenty of moly lube on the threads, and the base of the nut so it slides easy against the washer as you toruqe it down.

 

[sneakypete]

very true.... i drained all the fluid but there was some left over so when i was pulling the motor, i got a new oil slick on my driveway. be sure to lay some cardboard under the motor and trans when pulling it out
-pete

 

[CyFi6]

https://935motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=326_79_14_62_174&products_id=1464

Considerably cheaper, and same quality as OEM. Unfortunately they don't have an entire engine set, but that is much of what you will need