sweet, i cant wait for the footage, i noticed u had ur camera on almost everyones car. i have a few parts laying around, if u need anything u can check and see if i have it.
Rusty's 7M-GTE Build Thread - MKII Swap
- Thread starter kmfdmk
- Start date
The UPS man delivered some more goodies today.
The MOCAL Oil thermostat arrived along with the order from SupraSport.com
The MAFT-Pro Electronic Boost Controller (EBC), CT-26 laser cut flange, and the EBC Wiring Harness (plug-n-play to MAFT-PRO)
Wiring the EBC to the MAFT-Pro
More diagrams
A few grand in parts just stacked in the corner :\
The MOCAL Oil thermostat arrived along with the order from SupraSport.com
The MAFT-Pro Electronic Boost Controller (EBC), CT-26 laser cut flange, and the EBC Wiring Harness (plug-n-play to MAFT-PRO)
Wiring the EBC to the MAFT-Pro
More diagrams
A few grand in parts just stacked in the corner :\
Just got some more stuff today (again) 3 days in a row is nice 
The 50mm BOV, NGK wires, NGK Plugs, FIPG (Form In Place Gasket sealer), Fuel Dampner Bypass, Gates Timing Belt, all the Silicone Hose Couplers, and all the Stainless T-Bolts.
Picking up the head and block this Friday!! Hope to have it in either this or next weekend.
The 50mm BOV, NGK wires, NGK Plugs, FIPG (Form In Place Gasket sealer), Fuel Dampner Bypass, Gates Timing Belt, all the Silicone Hose Couplers, and all the Stainless T-Bolts.
Picking up the head and block this Friday!! Hope to have it in either this or next weekend.
very very nice....Lota new goodies... must be like Christmas everyday:}
were you goning to put car pc ? got mine in glovebox
were you goning to put car pc ? got mine in glovebox
Either gonna mount it in the glovebox area (already removed the factory subwoofer) or remove the back seats and make an RX-7 style storage area behind the driver and passenger front seats and put the computer, inverter and other junk back there. It would make it easier to access rather than having to crawl under the dash & do it. The LCD touch screen will get mounted either where the double-DIN radio would normally go, OR in a custom manual slide out instrument hood that will sit directly to the right of the stock gauge hood, and above where the center vents are in a MKII.
BTW saw you got your engine running. It looks bad-ass (so does the carpc) man. I'm gonna eventually get a custom set of EL gauges for mine, but engine comes first, cosmetics second!
BTW saw you got your engine running. It looks bad-ass (so does the carpc) man. I'm gonna eventually get a custom set of EL gauges for mine, but engine comes first, cosmetics second!
Picked up most of the engine from the machine shop Friday. It ended up being about a grand more than I expected. Total came to $3514. :\ Next time I'll just do the smart thing and BPU the hell out of a 2JZ-GTTE.
The polished exhaust manifold.
The Balanced Front Pulley
The Balanced 11lb XTD Flywheel & PP (were balanced together)
The Upgraded 7M-GTE oil pump, modified pickup, as well as a stock 5M-GE oil pump, and a few extra feed tubes
Close-Up of the Knife Edged Crank, ARP Hardware, & the bottoms of the Eagle Rods
The Short Block, just waiting for the head. Nice & clean.
A shot of the Oil Pan, you can see where a bit of the stock baffling was cut out to make room for the modified 7M-GTE Oil Pump pickup.
I get the head in a week and a half because I'm broke till then. I'm tired of barely having food & gas money after paying the bills. Last week by the time payday rolled around I had like $20 bucks to my name. But my buddy put it into perspective; I'm cramming an engine build that most people would do in a year or two into about 3 months.
All that's left to get is the Oil Cooler kit, and Intercooler Piping, and Exhaust Piping, and the ebay muffler. The Spin-On oil adapter for the Oil Cooler kit is on its way, and so is the Griffin 3" Aluminum Dual Core radiator (Item # GRI-1-25221-X), got the one that's 26" wide, 16" tall, 3" thick for $195 from Summit. I couldn't justify the extra $300 to $400 bucks for one with mounting flanges in the right spots.
The polished exhaust manifold.
The Balanced Front Pulley
The Balanced 11lb XTD Flywheel & PP (were balanced together)
The Upgraded 7M-GTE oil pump, modified pickup, as well as a stock 5M-GE oil pump, and a few extra feed tubes
Close-Up of the Knife Edged Crank, ARP Hardware, & the bottoms of the Eagle Rods
The Short Block, just waiting for the head. Nice & clean.
A shot of the Oil Pan, you can see where a bit of the stock baffling was cut out to make room for the modified 7M-GTE Oil Pump pickup.
I get the head in a week and a half because I'm broke till then. I'm tired of barely having food & gas money after paying the bills. Last week by the time payday rolled around I had like $20 bucks to my name. But my buddy put it into perspective; I'm cramming an engine build that most people would do in a year or two into about 3 months.
All that's left to get is the Oil Cooler kit, and Intercooler Piping, and Exhaust Piping, and the ebay muffler. The Spin-On oil adapter for the Oil Cooler kit is on its way, and so is the Griffin 3" Aluminum Dual Core radiator (Item # GRI-1-25221-X), got the one that's 26" wide, 16" tall, 3" thick for $195 from Summit. I couldn't justify the extra $300 to $400 bucks for one with mounting flanges in the right spots.
Good news I talked to the machine shop and since I've been regularly giving them more than 25% of my monthly income they're going to let me have the head this friday and then pay them when I get paid (it's not like I'm going to rip them off). (Reading between the lines, I've developed a good enough customer-shop relationship they trust me to pick it up before payment is complete).
This is a HUGE development for me. This pretty much means that I can push the whole thing forward as planned and NOT be delayed a full 4 weeks (I have $1400 in rent to pay this month, on top of the $1000 I've paid already ai yai yai First & Last months rent, 300 deposit, and August's rent since I won't get paid again until the 2nd week in August)
What's everyones thoughts on not running an oil cooler?
This is a HUGE development for me. This pretty much means that I can push the whole thing forward as planned and NOT be delayed a full 4 weeks (I have $1400 in rent to pay this month, on top of the $1000 I've paid already ai yai yai First & Last months rent, 300 deposit, and August's rent since I won't get paid again until the 2nd week in August)
What's everyones thoughts on not running an oil cooler?
HELL YEAH, better them most mkiii builds.
i wouldn't recomend running with out one, but it can be done, i am doing it now, but i may be killing my motor when running it hard. but for the first few weeks of break in i couldn't see it not hurting it.
but for the money you have invested it might be better waiting on the real deal ...
i wouldn't recomend running with out one, but it can be done, i am doing it now, but i may be killing my motor when running it hard. but for the first few weeks of break in i couldn't see it not hurting it.
but for the money you have invested it might be better waiting on the real deal ...
kmfdmk;1077944 said:
Not recomended in boosted applications. Remeber we use the oil to cool the turbine and the motor as well.
VHT Enamel Coated the Exhaust Manifold, the Heat Shields, the Valve Covers, and the Lower Intake Manifold.
Everything other than the valve covers.
Lower Intake Manifold
Exhaust Manfiold and Heat Shields
Mock-Up of Turbo on Exhaust Manifold w/ Heat Shields
You can see right around the base of the turbo where I missed a bit because I didn't want to spray enamel on the mounting surface.
Personally I think it looks better w/o the Heat Shields, but know it'll help with the underhood temps.
Not recommended unless you don't mind your oven reeking of paint. But it's the only place that the valve covers would fit. All the rest fit in the grill (which worked wonderfully).
The valve covers, which I'm going to detail in some really bright red for the lettering and the striping.
Another box-o-junk, Rear Timing Cover, bad cams, water pump, a whole set of screwed up buckets & shims, oil pump drive shaft, & odds and ends.
Everything other than the valve covers.
Lower Intake Manifold
Exhaust Manfiold and Heat Shields
Mock-Up of Turbo on Exhaust Manifold w/ Heat Shields
You can see right around the base of the turbo where I missed a bit because I didn't want to spray enamel on the mounting surface.
Personally I think it looks better w/o the Heat Shields, but know it'll help with the underhood temps.
Not recommended unless you don't mind your oven reeking of paint. But it's the only place that the valve covers would fit. All the rest fit in the grill (which worked wonderfully).
The valve covers, which I'm going to detail in some really bright red for the lettering and the striping.
Another box-o-junk, Rear Timing Cover, bad cams, water pump, a whole set of screwed up buckets & shims, oil pump drive shaft, & odds and ends.
And here are pictures why the block (and head, though that's another story) went back to the machine shop today (THANK YOU SO MUCH JAMES!!!).
Pretty much goes like this, ARP Stud got installed in Journal #3?, and Bolt in Journal #7?, which needs to be switched around. Here are shots of the problem itself with clearances.
OF NOTE:
Anyone else looking to put a 7M in their MKII and use a 7M pump should make special note of this. You'll run into the exact same problem as me because the flange for the pickup I'm running is the same flange as a stock one (with a modified pickup tube welded on).
Gee Brain the pump won't go all the way in...:faint:
Hmm Pinky Perhaps it's an issue with clearances...
Pickup Flange hitting the ARP Stud
If you look closely in this picture you can see both the gap remaining for the pump to fully seat in the lower left, and the pickup flange bottoming out on the Main Stud.
Another shot a bit further away to give you a better orientation.
Bolt in Journal/Main Cap #7 needs to get moved to...
Main Cap/Journal #3...
The head also went back to the machine shop today to be tore back down again and cleaned. I say cleaned and not re-cleaned because there were no less than 7 aluminum shavings in and on the head. The smallest about 1mm x 2mm, and the largest about 1.5mm x 6mm or so.
The good is that both will hopefully be done tomorrow (within 24 hours) and it's being done at no additional cost which is the way it should be as much as it's cost me so far. Other than these two goofs I still highly recommend Dan Hall's Automotive Machine. Dan's bone cancer causes him to get chemo and the last time he went in for chemo he got uber sick, and hasn't been into the shop in 3 weeks or so. It's been hectic, but the work is quality stuff.
Got my Perma-Cool Spin-On-Adapter, PRM-111 from Summit the other day along with the radiator. Amazing like 48 hour shipping time.
This is the Griffin 3" Aluminum Dual Core radiator (Item # GRI-1-25221-X), got the one that's 26" wide, 16" tall, 3" thick for $195 from Summit.
No Cap, No Mounts, no Drains, No Bungs, No Petcocks, and no added cost.
Yes, I know the fill is on the passenger side.
Right End Tank
Left End Tank
Pretty much goes like this, ARP Stud got installed in Journal #3?, and Bolt in Journal #7?, which needs to be switched around. Here are shots of the problem itself with clearances.
OF NOTE:
Anyone else looking to put a 7M in their MKII and use a 7M pump should make special note of this. You'll run into the exact same problem as me because the flange for the pickup I'm running is the same flange as a stock one (with a modified pickup tube welded on).
Gee Brain the pump won't go all the way in...:faint:
Hmm Pinky Perhaps it's an issue with clearances...
Pickup Flange hitting the ARP Stud
If you look closely in this picture you can see both the gap remaining for the pump to fully seat in the lower left, and the pickup flange bottoming out on the Main Stud.
Another shot a bit further away to give you a better orientation.
Bolt in Journal/Main Cap #7 needs to get moved to...
Main Cap/Journal #3...
The head also went back to the machine shop today to be tore back down again and cleaned. I say cleaned and not re-cleaned because there were no less than 7 aluminum shavings in and on the head. The smallest about 1mm x 2mm, and the largest about 1.5mm x 6mm or so.
The good is that both will hopefully be done tomorrow (within 24 hours) and it's being done at no additional cost which is the way it should be as much as it's cost me so far. Other than these two goofs I still highly recommend Dan Hall's Automotive Machine. Dan's bone cancer causes him to get chemo and the last time he went in for chemo he got uber sick, and hasn't been into the shop in 3 weeks or so. It's been hectic, but the work is quality stuff.
Got my Perma-Cool Spin-On-Adapter, PRM-111 from Summit the other day along with the radiator. Amazing like 48 hour shipping time.
This is the Griffin 3" Aluminum Dual Core radiator (Item # GRI-1-25221-X), got the one that's 26" wide, 16" tall, 3" thick for $195 from Summit.
No Cap, No Mounts, no Drains, No Bungs, No Petcocks, and no added cost.
Yes, I know the fill is on the passenger side.
Right End Tank
Left End Tank
Last edited:
I love this build and I love your car.Do you have any videos of your car in action?or even pics?
keep up the good work man
keep up the good work man
YouTube Video of me & my MKII in action
Pictures of my MKII
I found out some even shittier news today. Apparently the IQ at my machine shop is dropping rapidly. My mechanic James dropped off the head and block yesterday to have them SWAP the bolts from Main Cap #7 with the studs in Main Cap #3 (which should have been bolts, even the ARP catalog says that Main Cap #3 is why the bolts are included).
Well... I get a call today from James my mechanic/best friend here in Vancouver, while I'm working 10 hour days, he gets stuff done for me. Well... apparently even after being TOLD what to do and what was needed done, a machinist removed my stud, GROUND IT DOWN, along with the nut too, and then re-installed it to get the pump to clear.
Now.. I'm stuck calling all the performance shops in the greater Portland/Vancouver area hunting for someone that's got the damn kit in stock and will sell me just one stud & nut. Hopefully HorsePowerFreaks is going to bail me out, else I've got to overnight one from ARP (IF they'll sell one individually). I'll find out tomorrow if HPF will bail me out...
I have to go kill something.
Pictures of my MKII
I found out some even shittier news today. Apparently the IQ at my machine shop is dropping rapidly. My mechanic James dropped off the head and block yesterday to have them SWAP the bolts from Main Cap #7 with the studs in Main Cap #3 (which should have been bolts, even the ARP catalog says that Main Cap #3 is why the bolts are included).
Well... I get a call today from James my mechanic/best friend here in Vancouver, while I'm working 10 hour days, he gets stuff done for me. Well... apparently even after being TOLD what to do and what was needed done, a machinist removed my stud, GROUND IT DOWN, along with the nut too, and then re-installed it to get the pump to clear.
Now.. I'm stuck calling all the performance shops in the greater Portland/Vancouver area hunting for someone that's got the damn kit in stock and will sell me just one stud & nut. Hopefully HorsePowerFreaks is going to bail me out, else I've got to overnight one from ARP (IF they'll sell one individually). I'll find out tomorrow if HPF will bail me out...
I have to go kill something.
Well it's 5am and I'm not even going to bed yet. Productive day yesterday and today. Found out that a custom 1-piece driveshaft would be too expensive and have balancing issues, and need to be re-bushed (adapted to use a larger driveshaft tube for the length necessary and power to be dealt with).
Going to have Driveline Specialties in Portland do the work. They're pretty much the US leaders in driveshafts. They crank out 30 driveshafts a day, and I don't mean car kinda stuff, paper-mill, mega-huge dump truck shafts, ship propellor shafts. They know their stuff. We decided to cut the MKIII driveshaft to the length I need. I picked up the 88-94 Pickup Flange (don't know if it was front or rear, but it matches the rear flange on the MKIII driveshaft, and has 23 splines like I need). Labor is gonna be $109 + $1.47 per inch of driveshaft to be added. (if need be).
Pictures explain themselves, short of the fact that Rich with SIP Racing really did have a SUPER SUPER SHITTY batch of crank scrapers go out. He's sending me a new one for free, but the thing I got in the mail, once mated to the block was a PIECE of SHIT. I seriously spent at least three hours trimming, filing, and cutting out the valleys in the scraper. At first it was scraping the throws on the crank, then the rod bolts were hitting the valleys, then the pump side one was bent at the wrong angle, and had to have it filed to clear the throws & rod bolts, AND... the kicker.
They didn't make ANY provision AT ALL to clear the Oil Pump Crossover feedline/tube. W.T.F. Seriously I mean WTF. I pay $90 shipped for something that apparently hasn't even been test fitted or had any R+D done on it to make sure it fits. Wish I woulda bought one from RaptorRacing's George. I just found out he makes them too. Too bad George doesn't return emails *COUGH COUGH*
Painting the block with Plasti-Kote 500* Aluminum Colored Engine Enamel
Taping & Sealing the Exhaust Side
Exhaust Side Painted
I got tired of making circles. Obviously the entire thing was made wrong.
Had to file down in excess of 1/4" here on this radius to keep the pump-side scraper from binding against the inside of the block.
Hmm Do You See a p0rblem here?
2-3mm removed from the areas where the Throws come close, 3-4mm removed to clear the Rod Bolts.
A LOT of goddammned filing going on, then deburring it, then wiping it down to get all the filings off, test fitting, marking, and then re-filing and doing it all over again.
NOW we have clearances.
You can just barely see that the angle for the pump-side scraper was off around oh.. 15* or so +/-.
Crappy picture of the block spun over getting ready for the head.
A horrible picture of me, right after putting in the studs, while James was oiling the cylinders.
Our buddy Brad hanging out and lending a hand.
Head on time for bed.
I have a bunch of much better pictures coming my way, but they're on Brad's camera. Will post those as soon as I can. Ordered all the oil cooler parts I need, as well as the MSD 8920 Tach Adapter and a pair of AutoMeter AutoGage Oil Press. & Water Temp. gauges. I like the AutoGage's they're cheap, functional and NOT ricer. I'd love to evenually upgrade to some VDO's though...
Going to have Driveline Specialties in Portland do the work. They're pretty much the US leaders in driveshafts. They crank out 30 driveshafts a day, and I don't mean car kinda stuff, paper-mill, mega-huge dump truck shafts, ship propellor shafts. They know their stuff. We decided to cut the MKIII driveshaft to the length I need. I picked up the 88-94 Pickup Flange (don't know if it was front or rear, but it matches the rear flange on the MKIII driveshaft, and has 23 splines like I need). Labor is gonna be $109 + $1.47 per inch of driveshaft to be added. (if need be).
Pictures explain themselves, short of the fact that Rich with SIP Racing really did have a SUPER SUPER SHITTY batch of crank scrapers go out. He's sending me a new one for free, but the thing I got in the mail, once mated to the block was a PIECE of SHIT. I seriously spent at least three hours trimming, filing, and cutting out the valleys in the scraper. At first it was scraping the throws on the crank, then the rod bolts were hitting the valleys, then the pump side one was bent at the wrong angle, and had to have it filed to clear the throws & rod bolts, AND... the kicker.
They didn't make ANY provision AT ALL to clear the Oil Pump Crossover feedline/tube. W.T.F. Seriously I mean WTF. I pay $90 shipped for something that apparently hasn't even been test fitted or had any R+D done on it to make sure it fits. Wish I woulda bought one from RaptorRacing's George. I just found out he makes them too. Too bad George doesn't return emails *COUGH COUGH*
Painting the block with Plasti-Kote 500* Aluminum Colored Engine Enamel
Taping & Sealing the Exhaust Side
Exhaust Side Painted
I got tired of making circles. Obviously the entire thing was made wrong.
Had to file down in excess of 1/4" here on this radius to keep the pump-side scraper from binding against the inside of the block.
Hmm Do You See a p0rblem here?
2-3mm removed from the areas where the Throws come close, 3-4mm removed to clear the Rod Bolts.
A LOT of goddammned filing going on, then deburring it, then wiping it down to get all the filings off, test fitting, marking, and then re-filing and doing it all over again.
NOW we have clearances.
You can just barely see that the angle for the pump-side scraper was off around oh.. 15* or so +/-.
Crappy picture of the block spun over getting ready for the head.
A horrible picture of me, right after putting in the studs, while James was oiling the cylinders.
Our buddy Brad hanging out and lending a hand.
Head on time for bed.
I have a bunch of much better pictures coming my way, but they're on Brad's camera. Will post those as soon as I can. Ordered all the oil cooler parts I need, as well as the MSD 8920 Tach Adapter and a pair of AutoMeter AutoGage Oil Press. & Water Temp. gauges. I like the AutoGage's they're cheap, functional and NOT ricer. I'd love to evenually upgrade to some VDO's though...
Total Cost Update ...
88 7M-GTE block (spec'd to 7.78:1 compression)
Bored .020 (20 thousandths over)
Honed & Polished
Decked Block
Magnafluxed Block
Stock 88 head
Dye checked for cracks etc
Port & Polish exhaust side
Short-Turn radii removed on intake side
Intake port matched
Stock Exhaust Manifold Port Matched to the Head and polished up (esp where the exhaust flows across the divider and into the turbo).
Used Eagle Forged Rods (these came out of a built motor that had the pistons burnt up due to improper AFR during break-in, only about 250 approx miles if that)
New Probe Forged Pistons .020 Overbore w/ Rings Decked .020
Stock Crank Magnafluxed
Micropolished journals
Teardropped oil passageways
Undersized Bearings
Front Sump 5M-GE Pan w/ Oil Return already there
Cost Breakdown (shipping included)
Block & goodies & all that other bolt on crap ($??? don't remember around $300 to $400)
Cams $85.00 (good used)
Probe Forged Pistons $395 + Used Forged Eagle Rods $350 + ARP Head Stud kit $125 = 870 + 35.45 S&H = 905.45
5M-Fidanza Flywheel $290 + 9.99 S&H = 299.99
Walbro 255 pump $98 + .57 Trim CT-26 Turbo $600 + Aeromotive FPR $250 = 948 + 34.81 S&H = 982.81
6x Oil Squirters = around $80 (I think)
Rear Wheel Bearings, Drum Brakes, Axle-Stub Nuts, Seals, Bearing Puller & Grease, & 7M-GTE Hoses = around $500
Stage III Clutch $515 + 26 S&H = 541
7M XTD 12lb Lightweight Flywheel = $100
Intercooler $175
Junkie's Wiring Harness = $450
5M ECU & plugs for Junkie = $55
Upgraded 7M-GTE Oil Pump $325 + ARP Main Studs $139.99 = 464.99 + 17.08 S&H = 482.07
Machine Work... = .... $3514...Ouch
550cc Injectors, Intake Mani, Timing Belt Idler, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Block Off = 631.06 (driftmotion)
50mm BOV, All Intercooler Hoses, Fuel Dampner Bypass, Form In Place Gasket Sealer, Gates Racing 7M Timing Belt (Kevlar Reinforced), NGK Plugs, NGK Wires = $435.59
Mocal Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings - $64
6M Crank Scraper - $89.27
LIPP Turbo Outlet Flange ($20.55), Electronic Boost Controller for Maft-Pro ($69.99), Boost Controller Plug-n-Play Harness ($24.99) = $135.36 (SupraSport.com)
Griffin Aluminum Radiator ($195.95), PermaCool Spin-On Remote Oil Filter Adapter ($10.95) = $218.65
AutoGage Water Temp & Oil Press Gauge Kit (Mech. Analog) ($46.95), B&M 6x11" Bar+Plate Oil Cooler ($62.88), PermaCool Dual Filter Mount ($31.95), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" Hose Barb Fittings x5 ($19.75), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" 90* Bend Host Barb ($3.95), -10 AN to -10 Hose Barb x4 ($23.80), Summit Glasspack 3" ($19.95) = 220.98 (Summit)
Full Turbo Gasket Kit = $81.79
Dipstick Tube = $19.09
Plug for Head = $4.87
Plug for Head 3x = $11.46
Plug for Head 3x = $12.72
MKIII U-Jounts 3x = $145.98
Front Main Seal = $13.84
Pilot Bearing for Crank/Xmission = $4.33
Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring = $0.85
Thermostat = $10.69
Cam Position Sensor (CPS) Dust Cover Gasket = $2.08
O-Ring for CPS = $1.72
Head Valley Cover = $37.45
Running Total : $10612.1
Left to get:
2-Piece Modified MKIII Driveshaft ~ $150
IC Piping ~200?
Exhaust Piping ~ 100
Muffler $56 shipped
88 7M-GTE block (spec'd to 7.78:1 compression)
Bored .020 (20 thousandths over)
Honed & Polished
Decked Block
Magnafluxed Block
Stock 88 head
Dye checked for cracks etc
Port & Polish exhaust side
Short-Turn radii removed on intake side
Intake port matched
Stock Exhaust Manifold Port Matched to the Head and polished up (esp where the exhaust flows across the divider and into the turbo).
Used Eagle Forged Rods (these came out of a built motor that had the pistons burnt up due to improper AFR during break-in, only about 250 approx miles if that)
New Probe Forged Pistons .020 Overbore w/ Rings Decked .020
Stock Crank Magnafluxed
Micropolished journals
Teardropped oil passageways
Undersized Bearings
Front Sump 5M-GE Pan w/ Oil Return already there
Cost Breakdown (shipping included)
Block & goodies & all that other bolt on crap ($??? don't remember around $300 to $400)
Cams $85.00 (good used)
Probe Forged Pistons $395 + Used Forged Eagle Rods $350 + ARP Head Stud kit $125 = 870 + 35.45 S&H = 905.45
5M-Fidanza Flywheel $290 + 9.99 S&H = 299.99
Walbro 255 pump $98 + .57 Trim CT-26 Turbo $600 + Aeromotive FPR $250 = 948 + 34.81 S&H = 982.81
6x Oil Squirters = around $80 (I think)
Rear Wheel Bearings, Drum Brakes, Axle-Stub Nuts, Seals, Bearing Puller & Grease, & 7M-GTE Hoses = around $500
Stage III Clutch $515 + 26 S&H = 541
7M XTD 12lb Lightweight Flywheel = $100
Intercooler $175
Junkie's Wiring Harness = $450
5M ECU & plugs for Junkie = $55
Upgraded 7M-GTE Oil Pump $325 + ARP Main Studs $139.99 = 464.99 + 17.08 S&H = 482.07
Machine Work... = .... $3514...Ouch
550cc Injectors, Intake Mani, Timing Belt Idler, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Block Off = 631.06 (driftmotion)
50mm BOV, All Intercooler Hoses, Fuel Dampner Bypass, Form In Place Gasket Sealer, Gates Racing 7M Timing Belt (Kevlar Reinforced), NGK Plugs, NGK Wires = $435.59
Mocal Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings - $64
6M Crank Scraper - $89.27
LIPP Turbo Outlet Flange ($20.55), Electronic Boost Controller for Maft-Pro ($69.99), Boost Controller Plug-n-Play Harness ($24.99) = $135.36 (SupraSport.com)
Griffin Aluminum Radiator ($195.95), PermaCool Spin-On Remote Oil Filter Adapter ($10.95) = $218.65
AutoGage Water Temp & Oil Press Gauge Kit (Mech. Analog) ($46.95), B&M 6x11" Bar+Plate Oil Cooler ($62.88), PermaCool Dual Filter Mount ($31.95), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" Hose Barb Fittings x5 ($19.75), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" 90* Bend Host Barb ($3.95), -10 AN to -10 Hose Barb x4 ($23.80), Summit Glasspack 3" ($19.95) = 220.98 (Summit)
Full Turbo Gasket Kit = $81.79
Dipstick Tube = $19.09
Plug for Head = $4.87
Plug for Head 3x = $11.46
Plug for Head 3x = $12.72
MKIII U-Jounts 3x = $145.98
Front Main Seal = $13.84
Pilot Bearing for Crank/Xmission = $4.33
Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring = $0.85
Thermostat = $10.69
Cam Position Sensor (CPS) Dust Cover Gasket = $2.08
O-Ring for CPS = $1.72
Head Valley Cover = $37.45
Running Total : $10612.1
Left to get:
2-Piece Modified MKIII Driveshaft ~ $150
IC Piping ~200?
Exhaust Piping ~ 100
Muffler $56 shipped
Made a lot of headway in the last 48 hours thanks to James', and Brad's help (and my wife who's been playing my cheauffer).
Crank Scraper & Pan on, thanks to 3 tubes of FIPG.
Vavle Covers On
Upper & Lower Intake Manifolds w/ Thermal Gaskets On
Rear Timing Cover, Front Lower Timing Cover, Timing Gear, Belt, Pulleys, etc On
Fuel Rail & Injectors In & Wired Soldered & Heat Shrink'd (Thanks James!!)
Harness On
Exhaust Manifold, Turbo & various block off plates On
Knock Sensors, Oil Sending Unit, Oil Pressure (for AutoMeter Gauges) & Plugs In
Thermostat Housing Thermostat, Mech Water Temp Gauge On
Flywheel, Pilot Bearing, Throwout Bearing, Pressure Plate, Clutch & Transmission On.
More goodies arrived from Summit (Oil Cooler Setup, & Gauges)
My 3" In/Out Summit Glasspack
The OUTLET ?? Side (It's what it's labeled as)
The Inlet Side
Stock MKIII R-154 Manual Driveshaft Front Half (Is the SAME Length as A-340 Auto Driveshaft Front Half, I measured this against James')
Stock MKIII R-154 Manual Driveshaft Front Half is 16 1/2" in length (This is MEASURED FROM Center of Front U Joint)
Stock MKIII R-154 Manual Driveshaft Back Half is 25 1/2" in length (This is Measured from End of the Flange to the End of the Flange) This WILL Have to be lengthened for the MKII.
Picture of the WRONG flange on the right, and the stocker on the left. The flange on the right is beefier, larger, mates up to the MKIII, has the right number of splines but a larger diameter. This will not work on a stock MKII diff.
This is what the upgraded flange looks like when sitting on top of the stock MKII flange. There's no way to re-use or re-drill the MKII flange and still use the MKIII driveshaft. Sending the wife to fetch a new one tomorrow (from ToyMan in Portland).
Pan, Valve Covers, Injectors and a slew of other stuff on.
The 1/8 BPT to 1/8NPT adapter needed to run aftermarket Oil Pressure gauges on a Toyota engine.
Turbo On
Turbo, Thermostat Outlet, Water Temp Adapter, Intake Manifold & other junk installed.
Plug Wires on, & James admiring his handywork.
Flywheel On w/ ARP Bolts, Loc-Tite & Moly Assembly lube'd (on the shoulders of the bolts to prevent siezing).
The Mad Dr. Frankenstein himself, Mr. James Cook!!! (My Hero)
I'm happy that it's coming together. (I also look like a moron)
Tranny going on.
Tranny on.
the Antici---------Pation is killing me.
Pulling the 5M tomorrow and ordering U-bends because Costless doubled their pricing.
Crank Scraper & Pan on, thanks to 3 tubes of FIPG.
Vavle Covers On
Upper & Lower Intake Manifolds w/ Thermal Gaskets On
Rear Timing Cover, Front Lower Timing Cover, Timing Gear, Belt, Pulleys, etc On
Fuel Rail & Injectors In & Wired Soldered & Heat Shrink'd (Thanks James!!)
Harness On
Exhaust Manifold, Turbo & various block off plates On
Knock Sensors, Oil Sending Unit, Oil Pressure (for AutoMeter Gauges) & Plugs In
Thermostat Housing Thermostat, Mech Water Temp Gauge On
Flywheel, Pilot Bearing, Throwout Bearing, Pressure Plate, Clutch & Transmission On.
More goodies arrived from Summit (Oil Cooler Setup, & Gauges)
My 3" In/Out Summit Glasspack
The OUTLET ?? Side (It's what it's labeled as)
The Inlet Side
Stock MKIII R-154 Manual Driveshaft Front Half (Is the SAME Length as A-340 Auto Driveshaft Front Half, I measured this against James')
Stock MKIII R-154 Manual Driveshaft Front Half is 16 1/2" in length (This is MEASURED FROM Center of Front U Joint)
Stock MKIII R-154 Manual Driveshaft Back Half is 25 1/2" in length (This is Measured from End of the Flange to the End of the Flange) This WILL Have to be lengthened for the MKII.
Picture of the WRONG flange on the right, and the stocker on the left. The flange on the right is beefier, larger, mates up to the MKIII, has the right number of splines but a larger diameter. This will not work on a stock MKII diff.
This is what the upgraded flange looks like when sitting on top of the stock MKII flange. There's no way to re-use or re-drill the MKII flange and still use the MKIII driveshaft. Sending the wife to fetch a new one tomorrow (from ToyMan in Portland).
Pan, Valve Covers, Injectors and a slew of other stuff on.
The 1/8 BPT to 1/8NPT adapter needed to run aftermarket Oil Pressure gauges on a Toyota engine.
Turbo On
Turbo, Thermostat Outlet, Water Temp Adapter, Intake Manifold & other junk installed.
Plug Wires on, & James admiring his handywork.
Flywheel On w/ ARP Bolts, Loc-Tite & Moly Assembly lube'd (on the shoulders of the bolts to prevent siezing).
The Mad Dr. Frankenstein himself, Mr. James Cook!!! (My Hero)
I'm happy that it's coming together. (I also look like a moron)
Tranny going on.
Tranny on.
the Antici---------Pation is killing me.
Pulling the 5M tomorrow and ordering U-bends because Costless doubled their pricing.
excellent work rusty! looks like it's been a productive couple days for the both of us. get yours running tomorrow! and we can bring too 7m mk2s to life at once haha!
keep it up. I'm sure there will be no problems with you getting it going! we need videos of this very in-depth turbo build!
keep it up. I'm sure there will be no problems with you getting it going! we need videos of this very in-depth turbo build!