Rusty's 7M-GTE Build Thread - MKII Swap

[kmfdmk]

I'm building up a 7M-GTE to put into my 85 MKII P-type. I already regularly AutoX, RallyX, and drift my car, not to mention run it in the AKA Rally a 3000+ mile road rally across the US. I decided after only doing 118mph last year on the Bonneville Salt Flats, and after having to run the piss out of my 5M just to keep up with everyone on the Rally that I needed something more, a lot something more.

Since I'm a bomb technician I make good money, so cost while still definitely an issue and wanting to do it efficiently, I wanted to do it right so that I wouldn't have the usual problems from a direct JDM swap engine (buying someone else's unwanted & unknown problems).

88 7M-GTE block
Bored .020 (20 thousandths over)
Honed & Polished
Decked Block
Magnafluxed Block

Stock 88 head
Dye checked for cracks etc
Port & Polish exhaust side
Short-Turn radii removed on intake side
Intake port matched

Stock Exhaust Manifold Port Matched to the Head and polished up (esp where the exhaust flows across the divider and into the turbo).

Used Eagle Forged Rods (these came out of a built motor that had the pistons burnt up due to improper AFR during break-in, only about 250 approx miles if that)
New Probe Forged Pistons .020 Overbore w/ Rings

Stock Crank Magnafluxed
Micropolished journals
Teardropped oil passageways
Undersized Bearings

Front Sump 5M-GE Pan w/ Oil Return already there

Used 5M-GE Oil Pump rebuilt (returned to spec & tight clearances, shimmed for higher pressures)

Intercooler, crossflow Spearco style, 24"x12"x3" w/ 3" inlet/outlet
3" Intercooler piping
3 or 4" Exhaust w/ matching (3 or 4") custom fabbed downpipe
Aeromotive FPR Kit (from Driftmotion)
CT-26 .57 trim (from Driftmotion)
MAFT-Pro
650cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph pump

Fidanza 5M-GE 11lb Flywheel
??? ACT Perhaps, or SPEC Clutch probably Stage 3
Thinking of wedging in a MKIV Aluminum Radiator, need to check on clearances & fitment. Anyone know if the MKIV radiator will physically fit in the MKII?? Nevermind mounting it I'll fab some mounts.

Cost Breakdown (shipping included)
Block & goodies & all that other bolt on crap ($??? don't remember around $300 to $400)
Cams $85.00 (good used)
Probe Forged Pistons $395 + Used Forged Eagle Rods $350 + ARP Head Stud kit $125 = 870 + 35.45 S&H = 905.45
5M-Fidanza Flywheel $290 + 9.99 S&H = 299.99
Walbro 255 pump $98 + .57 Trim CT-26 Turbo $600 + Aeromotive FPR $250 = 948 + 34.81 S&H = 982.81
6x Oil Squirters = around $80 (I think)
Rear Wheel Bearings, Drum Brakes, Axle-Stub Nuts, Seals, Bearing Puller & Grease, & 7M-GTE Hoses = around $500
Stage III Clutch $515 + 26 S&H = 541
7M XTD 12lb Lightweight Flywheel = $100
Intercooler $175
Junkie's Wiring Harness = $450
5M ECU & plugs for Junkie = $55
Upgraded 7M-GTE Oil Pump $325 + ARP Main Studs $139.99 = 464.99 + 17.08 S&H = 482.07
Machine Work... = .... $3514...Ouch
550cc Injectors, Intake Mani, Timing Belt Idler, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Block Off = 631.06 (driftmotion)
50mm BOV, All Intercooler Hoses, Fuel Dampner Bypass, Form In Place Gasket Sealer, Gates Racing 7M Timing Belt (Kevlar Reinforced), NGK Plugs, NGK Wires = $435.59
Mocal Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings - $64
6M Crank Scraper - $89.27
LIPP Turbo Outlet Flange ($20.55), Electronic Boost Controller for Maft-Pro ($69.99), Boost Controller Plug-n-Play Harness ($24.99) = $135.36 (SupraSport.com)
Griffin Aluminum Radiator ($195.95), PermaCool Spin-On Remote Oil Filter Adapter ($10.95) = $218.65
AutoGage Water Temp & Oil Press Gauge Kit (Mech. Analog) ($46.95), B&M 6x11" Bar+Plate Oil Cooler ($62.88), PermaCool Dual Filter Mount ($31.95), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" Hose Barb Fittings x5 ($19.75), 1/2" NPT - 1/2" 90* Bend Host Barb ($3.95), -10 AN to -10 Hose Barb x4 ($23.80), Summit Glasspack 3" ($19.95) = 220.98 (Summit)
Full Turbo Gasket Kit = $81.79
Dipstick Tube = $19.09
Plug for Head = $4.87
Plug for Head 3x = $11.46
Plug for Head 3x = $12.72
MKIII U-Jounts 3x = $145.98
Front Main Seal = $13.84
Pilot Bearing for Crank/Xmission = $4.33
Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-Ring = $0.85
Thermostat = $10.69
Cam Position Sensor (CPS) Dust Cover Gasket = $2.08
O-Ring for CPS = $1.72
Head Valley Cover = $37.45

Running Total : $10612.1
Left to get:
2-Piece Modified MKIII Driveshaft ~ $150
IC Piping ~200?
Exhaust Piping ~ 100
Muffler $56 shipped

Now for the pictures. BTW the full gallery of pictures (I'm only posting the good/pertinent ones) can be viewed here: http://s92169157.onlinehome.us/gallery/7mgte

Stock head before stripping down to take to the machine shop.

Crank

Odds & Ends Parts & Pieces (Rear Timing cover, bearings, water pump etc)

Cam removal before taking to the machine shop.

Cams are a little rusty (lol) I'm still waiting to hear back if the cams are usable or not.

This manifold turned out to be worthless since it was full of cracks (no suprise there)

Not the recommended cam removal method but it worked.

Something tells me I'll need new lifter caps (or whatever you call them)

Removing something related to either Fuel or EGR. Gee... I'm wearing a KMFDM shirt... what a suprise.

Used EAGLE Forged Rods as I received them from Aaron from Driftmotion.com Bushings looked great and Aaron is incredibly good with customer service. No really, I called him @ 8.30pm @ night to leave a message on his business machine and he actually answered and we talked for like 45 minutes. Really helpful, highly recommended.

EAGLE logo, anyone else thinking Third Reich or is the Industrial music I listen to getting to me.

5M-GE Pan, front-sump w/ Oil Return already present.

All new Oil Squirters for the 7M-GTE block, gotta keep those pistons cool.

Probe Forged Pistons, Rings & ARP Head Studs

A good view of the top valve recesses & dish

Another good view of the recesses & dish

The 24x12x3 Intercooler, same one that Aaron's got for sale over at Driftmotion.

The car it's all going into.

 

[kmfdmk]

More stuff!!

Some of the original detailing on the NA valve covers starting to flake off.

The other one still looks pretty good, but still going to through the parts washer.

Valve Covers and Cams, we had issues getting the Exhaust cam gear bolt off (obviously). Going to let the machine shop handle it.

New exhaust gasket for getting the exhaust side portmatched.

New (well good) Valve Lash Adjusters/caps/buckets whatever. These ones are ok.

Titan MotorSports 1.4mm Metal Head Gasket

The thing looks 100% metal w/ brass? rivets holding the layers together.

Close up detail of the gasket. Looks like a 0.3mm layer, a 0.8mm layer and another 0.3mm layer. Just guessing, no Micrometer to check.

 

[kmfdmk]

More pictures.. Of the headwork & wheel bearing change which didn't fix the howl in my rear, I've concluded it's the Diff. This would be a logical conclusion since I've been drifting & auto-x'ing the thing and it's begun to "loosen up" a bit on me, not locking up properly. Hunting for a new 4.?? or 3.high diff. and R154.

Polished lower intake mocked up to the head.

Detail of the removal of the short-turn radii on the intake side of the head.

Detail of the polished lower intake.

Closeup detail of the removal of the short-turn radii on the intake side of the head.

Mild porting, more really of the polishing on the divider in the exhaust manifold.

The head all pretty & clean w/ some kind of meaningful numbers written all over it.

3-angle Vavle job detail and crummy detail of some kind of work that I paid big $$ for *lol*.

Hub, Rotor, & Parking brakes off, axle stub getting ready to come out for bearing replacement.

$108 bucks worth of bearing puller and worth EVERY DAMN PENNY!!

Closeup detail of the part numbers on the Bearing Pullers JIC anyone else would ever want to order them. I got these over the counter from Baxters which is literally right around the corner. I think they're some kind of uber hard alloy.

Around $300 to $350 bucks worth of parts. New L&R F&R parking brakes (OMG E-brake WORKS now!!), new nuts, inner & outer bearing seals, inner & outer bearings, grease, 14mm socket & 27mm socket, screwdriver, hammer and you can pretty much take the whole damn thing apart.

Of course none of this would be possible with out some punches and a BFH (Big f'n hammer)

Closeup of the bearing puller clamp on the bearing itself. I tightened these down evenly and got them firmly snug.

Then I went to Home Depot and got some 3/8" x 8" bolts because the little 3" long ones it came with weren't suited for my application. Note that I made very sure to have the bearing puller evenly aligned so that it would pull STRAIGHT up & not be cockeyed.

Working on pulling the #$%^ bearing off. Usually a PITA in the past, however the puller makes life much easier. NOTE: See how I sorta cheated by putting the wrench in the center of the Puller Screw? This lets me have something to leverage against when I'm cranking on it to pull the bearing off. Just have you be careful not to damage the threads on the Puller Screw with the wrench.

Installation reverse of removal, other than the application of the bearings onto the stub with a punch, a smaller hammer and TLC spreading out the taps on the inner race of the outer bearing in a top bottom left right manner to get it on.

Also left out was the hour spent cussing at the car due to cross threading the NEW nut I bought from the dealership, pulling it back off, cleaning out the thread shavings and reusing the old nut which turned out ok. Not to mention the other hour of cussing at the car because I want to shoot the invetor of DRUM BRAKES in the FACE. What a PITA, ineffecient design. WHY O WHY Can't Supra's have the same E-Brakes as Hachi's? Pull the handle and the .... wait for it... CALIPERS squeeze the rotor. OMG life would just be too easy then.

More pictures to come. Turbo, Walbro, RRFPR Aeromotive, ARP Main Studs on the way. Figuring out how to get a 7M pump in a 7M with a 5M pan...

Got a mohawk today too. That was an adjustment, had long hair (past my shoulders for about 9 years now) and now I've got a 8" mohawk. Pictures to come of that as well hehe.

 

[kmfdmk]

ARP Main Studs

ARP Main Stud Detail

Upgraded & Moly coated/plated 7M pump.

You can see where they ground off the stock "TOYOTA" casting hehe.

Aeromotive RRFPR w/ Adjustable Base, Oil-Filled Gauge & Install Kit

Walbro 255lph In-Tank Pump & Install kit. NOTE: This is for the MK3 Application, note that PN: 125-147 is the PN for the fuel pickup sock.

Walbro Pump & Instructions. NOTE: The PN for the pump is 147-385

These are all self explanatory. .57 Trim CT-26 turbo from Driftmotion.com. All kinds of good deals and good prices, kick ass customer support too.

 

[kmfdmk]

ACT Stage III Clutch w/ 2800lb Pressure Plate & 6-puck Sprung Hub Disc. & the 12lb XTD Lightweight Flywheel.

Action 6 puck ceramic/metallic sprung disk

Detail of the original machining done @ the manufacturer still present. Only a VERY thin surface rust, hell steel wool and about 10 minutes would probably have it gone.

Detail of the original machining done @ the manufacturer still present.

Backside of the XTD Flywheel. It IS indeed STEEL, however they've managed to figure out a pretty ingenious way of manufacturing it to make it as light as possible.

Detail of how the flywheel has a dish in it. Also a bit of detail of the only damage to it, where the previous owners starter was chewing away at it.

ACT Stage III Pressure Plate

Stock outer housing with the heat-treated upgrade on the spring.

Pressure plate machine surface detail.

Bearings.

The whole kit about $641 bucks worth.

Decided to run Siemens 550cc injectors (again from Driftmotion) seems to be a bit better quality and they're cheaper AND have the clips INCLUDED for the 499 price.

Got to take pictures of the completed Oil Pickup Troy down @ Dan Hall Machine in Portland, just off of Interstate & Killingsworth did the work for me. Tucker did the headwork and completed the head.

Fabricated Oil Pickup

Fabricated Oil Pickup

Assembled Head Ready for Pickup (after Payment)

 

[kmfdmk]

Bought some more stuff today. The 7M Insulated Intake Manifold-to-Head Gasket, the EGR Block Off Plate, a new Timing Belt Idler, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and the Siemens Deka 550cc Injectors. Also bought a 7M Crank Scraper as well. I'll post more pics as I get them.

Also bought some more computer stuff last night. My desktop mobo was giving me shit so I ordered a new (older) Asus A8V-X motherboard (so I can still use my Opteron Dual Core & Memory). And I also picked up an 8GB SD card & reader along with an ECS GOAL3+ Micro-ATX motherboard, it's about 9" x 8" and I'm going to be putting that in the Supra along with a 7" Touchscreen so I can have realtime engine monitoring/management via the dongle/cable for the MAFT-Pro. Newegg had a sweet combo, the ECS GOAL3+ mobo along with a Sempron 3000 cpu for only 50 bucks, and 40 after MIR. So pretty much I only need about another $400 and I'll have all the car pc components (100 for the dc-dc power supply, and about $300 for the touchscreen)

 

[kmfdmk]

Tucker cleaning my Block after decking it.

Dan Hall's Old SCCA Race Car, condemned to mothballs & jackstands. I'll have to find out exactly what it was.

The do a little bit of work on Cranks. Just a little.

Ok so maybe a LOT!!

Another workshop pic.

Where Troy & Tom hone & work with the blocks. You can see the hones in the middle right.

Lathes, Presses, workstations galore.

The green machine on the right is what bores the blocks, and the red one to its left is the parts washer. (I think)

A damn good reason to upgrade to forged Rods!!!

Just a bit of abuse occured prior to fatal failure.

L-R, Tweaked Rod, Through the Top, and Just a bit of Blow By...

This is what happens when all kinds of stuff gets ate by your piston, you get crankcase ventilation!! Also you can see my forged rods in the reflection. It's all be balanced and will be assembled next week ready for pickup in 2 weeks when I get paid. Also you can see a rod cap that had catastrophic failure and came from together.

Closeup of destroyed piston, and fubar'd rod cap.

 

[kmfdmk]

Spent another grand or so between parts and the machine shop.
631.06 on parts, $500 @ the machine shop. ($1800 so far paid to machine shop)

The Heat Shielding Intake Gasket for the Lower Intake Manifold to Head.

Timing Belt Idler Pulley, Siemens DEKA 550cc Injectors, Clips, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Blockoff Plate

Detail of the Siemens DEKA Injectors, looks like they are: 3102 w/ 4 160 00780 also stamped on them.

Obviously it says Siemens DEKA.

Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to rent a welder (tig) so I can fabricate a FFIM so I can save on the hassle of fabbing an ASSLOAD of intercooler piping. On the one hand I would have to lose the ISC (Idle Speed Controller) which I don't even know if I really need. On the other I've never welded aluminum (ever) let alone used a TIG machine (ever). However I've done a decent amount of cutting steel, its' alloys, and aluminum, as well as brazing & soldering. *shrugs* 6 to 1 half a dozen to the other.

I really would like the cleaner looking engine bay AND the less of a hassle on the IC piping.

Thinking about getting some D-Plenum that I found out about here from RossMachineRacing.com 2' of universal 5" D-Plenum, a 5" D-Plenum weld on cap, and a 6"x6" Make-Your-Own Throttle Body adapter plate only comes to 124.90 prior to shipping. Not really that bad at all if you think about it.

 

[kmfdmk]

Bought some more stuff today. Also spent $85 bucks at the U-Pull-It and already have installed the new Lower Windshield cowling since mine was rusted to hell.

$428.59 worth of goodies. Still need to get the radiator, oil filter relocation kit, oil thermostat, filter, and oil cooler, 3" exhaust piping, and the 2.5" intercooler piping, buy oil and I'm pretty much set to go.

50mm BOV polished aluminum $90.00
Hump hose 2.5 inch silicone $10.00
Reducer 2.5 inch to 2.75 inch $11.40
Reducer 2 inch to 2.5 inch $11.10
2x Reducer 2.5 to 3.0 silicone $23.60
T-Bolt Clamp 2.75" $3.50
6x T-Bolt Clamp 2.5" $19.50
2x T-Bolt Clamp 3.0" $7.50
T-Bolt Clamp 2.0" $3.00
7M Fuel Dampener Bypass Hose $65.00
FIPG (Form In Place Gasket Sealer) Black $13.50
Gates Racing Timing Belt for 7M $75.00
6x NGK BKR7E Spark Plug $13.50
NGK spark plug wire set for 7m-gte $59.99


Also got the MAFT-PRO, Electronic Boost Control Solenoid, Wiring Harness, LC-1 Wideband, and Turbo Flange for fabbing up the exhaust. Crank Scraper/Windage Tray is still in the mail I guess from Rich over at SIP Racing Mail Order.

Will post pictures when I get them

 

[natedogr]

awesome looking build you've got going. i saw you mentioned you were port matching the exhaust side of the head. i've read many many times that its recommended not to do so. maybe you should search for it before you do anything.

 

[kmfdmk]

I realize that port-matching the exhaust ports reduces the exhaust gas velocity, however it also reduces turbulence. I will give up a little bit of turbo response, lower the exhaust velocity, however I'll benefit from the reduced turbulence. Either way it's already been done so I'm stuck with it... What's done is done, till I upgrade the head to the 1mm oversize valves upgraded cams, double springs and retainers.

 

[cruisnhard]

Darn nice build.

 

[natedogr]

oh ok. i wasn't exactly sure what was bad about it, just lookin out. looking forward to the rest of your build!

 

[kmfdmk]

Just picked up this Mocal AOT2-3 Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings for my remote filter & Oil Cooler for $64 bucks shipped from Cali. Woo Hoo.

 

[pimptrizkit]

Just picked up this Mocal AOT2-3 Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings for my remote filter & Oil Cooler for $64 bucks shipped from Cali. Woo Hoo.

that and a good cooler is all im missin!

looks good Rusty.



hey are you going to be watching or drifting this thursday?

 

[kmfdmk]

Probably going to watch/film if I manage to get all my engine parts back to the house in time. (Which is only if I have enough money to pick it up hehe).

 

[kmfdmk]

Got the MAFT-Pro, Data Cable, & Harnesses the other day. Only thing was I got a cut harness and had to splice on another 4.5 feet onto the ends of it. Soldered the ends together tonight and double shrink tube'd them for added insulation security. Dear God not only does having the right type of solder (electric vs plumbing), also having good solder really pays off. I tried soldering the first lead with the solder that came with my Weller. What a PITA, it was cold soldering and not flowing properly into the connection. The $4 bucks I spent @ Home Depot was well worth not having a hassle soldering the leads on.

Wiring Diagram for MAFT-Pro (Maf-t Pro, maft pro)


Plumbing/Wiring Diagram for a Tial Wastegate (which I am not running but thought I would include for someone else' reference)


the Innovate Motorsports LC-1

This thing looks to be VERY high quality and made very well. It comes with custom data logging software, as well as the bonus that you can use it as a Narrowband O2 sensor to replace your stock O2 sensor, and has dual analog outputs (1 narrowband and 1 wideband) So yeah looks like you can also run both a AFR gauge and the MAFT-Pro with this (which is what I wanted to begin with).

You get a lot for $199 shipped, and it was fast, only ordered this on Saturday, and it's here on Wednesday.

 

[kmfdmk]

My 2 piece crank scraper arrived today for SIP Racing Mailorder. 89.27 shipped

 

[Highnitro]

nice build Rusty, btw im Matt, i met u at pir tonight. I cant wait to see ur car in action. btw, let me know when u need the tranny to engine mounts.

 

[kmfdmk]

nice build Rusty, btw im Matt, i met u at pir tonight. I cant wait to see ur car in action. btw, let me know when u need the tranny to engine mounts.

Thanks man, I'll probably need to pick them up within the next week or so. I'll have the money come next Friday. It was good meeting you. I should have some of the Drift Invasion footage up later on this weekend.