Running rough

Robert Tanzer

New Member
Dec 27, 2012
4
0
0
Austin, Tx
So I just bought myself a MK3, basically stole it for $1500, the guy I bought it from needed money that day so I got a hell of a deal. It of course is still a project, has a few flaws, but all the hard work is done. So he bought it blown up for $1000 about a year ago. He filled everything in on the body and primed it, so it's nice and smooth. I think I'm going to plasti dip it. But he also pulled the motor and painted the bay black. He took the block and heads to one of the best machine shops in Dallas and had the deck closed, bored .20, heads melted and resurfaced, and had the valves polished. He rebuilt the whole engine with forged internals, metal hg, and ARP studs. I guess he just got it dropped in and running. First, it idles crazy, it fluxes all over the place, it will stay at 800 though once you get it there. Now when you drive it it sputters real bad right when you start going, then it just seems to take off with just a little gas. It will hit boost then run good for a sec and start sputtering again, then when you push in the clutch it will keep its rpms, it actually goes up about 250 rpms, then you have to give it a little gas to bring it back down, then it will try to shut off if you don't bump it a tad. Then it will idle normal. First thing I noticed is it has the Lexus AFM but stock injectors. Then I noticed the AFM boot look dry rotten and loose. Second I noticed the TPS clip is a little loose because its broken, and it's missing a screw, and the sensor itself has a little hole in the plastic you can see some brass.

So what i'm thinking is throw the stock AFM back on along with a new boot, and a new TPS sensor. I don't need too much power in it right now lol, the steering is a little loose, and it still has the same 24 year old suspension, don't trust neither. So you think if I do that it will take care of my problems?

Also it has a MAFTpro, can I just keep the larger AFM and tune it? Or am I better off without it till I get 550's? I'm only gonna run 10-12 psi...
 

Turbo Habanero

New Member
Apr 28, 2009
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Tucson,AZ
A lot of then..... :)

Anyway my money is on the Tps causing most of the issue.

You have a lot of learning and reading a head of you. Just be smart because if all that is said is true that engine has a lot of money put into it.

Any pictures ?
 

Robert Tanzer

New Member
Dec 27, 2012
4
0
0
Austin, Tx
p1902548_1.jpg


p1902548_2.jpg


p1902548_3.jpg
 

Robert Tanzer

New Member
Dec 27, 2012
4
0
0
Austin, Tx
Also, this is my second one. So I know a little about them but my old one was pretty bone stock. I'm thinking in this order...Fix running problem and tune. Fix P/s leak, rebuilt tranny, stage 3 clutch. paint (plasti dip, going with matte black), sway bars and the like, coilovers, a nice set of 18 or 19's, 8 point poll cage, black dynoMat the int, carbon fiber doors and fiberglass hood. THHHEENNNN (lol) go back to the Lexas AFM, 550cc injectors, stand alone, bigger turbo and 3 1/2 inch all the way back. I plan on doing all till the new injectors within the next 2 months so feel free to subscribe to the thread when i start it!
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,232
37
48
Atlanta
Trade Lex AFM for a stock unit. You won't need either once you go with the MAFT Pro.
This would be a good start, though with the intake you have(no vac lines connected, and an improper PCV routing), you'll probably still have a few
driveability issues to iron out.

PS- Can't tell from the engine pic- Is there still a vent hose(by the oil cap) connecting the valve cover to the engine block?