RTV on dipstick
- Thread starter DigityD'87
- Start date
I agree with poo here, and just replace the oring. Any parts store will have them, and cost is what 5 dimes.
Yeh, i did replace the o-ring but had noticed there was some kind of sealant on their so i was just wondering. That was 6 hours ago and I have since then replaced my turbo, flushed my intercooler (that was full of oil from the other turbo), replaced a couple intercooler pipes, switched to full synthetic and did a radiator flush. I took her out for a test run and it ran great for a sec but then the check engine light had to come on:icon_evil. It gave me a code 31 and 24. So i thing replaceing my AFM should do the trick, it was covered in oil and all lol.
CRE makes a maf sensor cleaner, try that first. Follow the instructions, and reinstall the next day. It will run like crap for the first few minutes but it works wonders.
The cleaner is made for MAF's NOT a Karman Vortex AFM. It WILL screw it up.
If you're getting both of those codes, it means you left the AFM disconnected usually as the temp sensor is quite robust...
If you're getting both of those codes, it means you left the AFM disconnected usually as the temp sensor is quite robust...
Poodles;1282237 said:
I did try to start it on accident with the sensor unpluged but it obviously wouldn't start so i pluged it back in and it seemed to fine for the first minute or so then it started to hesitate at idle and thats when i noticed the idiot light. What should i do?
Well, I got impatient and cleaned the contacts on the AFM plug and pulled the EFI fuse for a minute and still no luck.... all it wants to do is sputter for a second and then stall out.
I originally started the car once to try and heat up the oil so it would drain and thats when i noticed the AFM was unpluged. I pluged that back in and changed the oil, drove it for a bit and thats when it started to idle wierd so I think I got the code 24 from the initial unpluged start-up. So i decided to check my codes again so i just now drove the car up the street and back hopeing the ECU would store new codes but when I went to check them all I got was a steady blinking light.
About two months ago I came up with a code 31 and it was acting almost identical to right now (starting up cold at a little under 2k and when it goes to drop it stalls out). So maybe its just my AFM after all.
I originally started the car once to try and heat up the oil so it would drain and thats when i noticed the AFM was unpluged. I pluged that back in and changed the oil, drove it for a bit and thats when it started to idle wierd so I think I got the code 24 from the initial unpluged start-up. So i decided to check my codes again so i just now drove the car up the street and back hopeing the ECU would store new codes but when I went to check them all I got was a steady blinking light.
About two months ago I came up with a code 31 and it was acting almost identical to right now (starting up cold at a little under 2k and when it goes to drop it stalls out). So maybe its just my AFM after all.
Well i just drove her this morning and it wont even idle without my foot on the gas a little, same with driveing it...it stalls out. And at start-up, large amounts of smoke comes out the tailpipe. I tried to pull some codes again after driveing it shortly but i just got the steady blink again. I'm stumped
edit: Also, It idled fine for the first 30sec - 1 minute then stalls out.
edit: Also, It idled fine for the first 30sec - 1 minute then stalls out.
I had a torn pipe, the one at the bottom of the turbo to the IC but patched it up well. My vaccum lines are shit also so i'll be checking to see if thats the cause. I know for a fact that I have a boost leak somewhere (still boosting 5psi though), but I've checked all my IC lines so it must be a manifold gasket. Where else is a common spot for a boost leak?
I just ran through the whole car's vaccum line system (to my knowledge) and came out with no results. I looked for, found and fixed all cracks in the rubber hard pipes. I'm so confused because the vaccum lines weren't hardly touched during the turbo swap and I took apart the entire intercooler system and there were no cracks or pin holes. The car drives better than ever but it just wont idle.