Does anybody have a step by step instruction of, how to remove and replace the EGR valve? Mine is going bad and needs to be replaced.
Replacing EGR valve?
- Thread starter twinturbozs
- Start date
I would take a stab that the modulator or vacuum lines are the culprit. Normally the only thing needed with the EGR valve is to be cleaned out.
Some of the stuff is in really tight spots, good luck!
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&Page=16
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&Page=16
I didnt think it was all that bad to get to. A long extension and universal joint is all you should need to get it out and back in.
I think if you can get in there, pull the valve and just see if it is full of carbon. And make sure the sensor is plugged in. If you don't know which one, make sure they are all plugged in.
1) The stock USDM ECU is "tuned" for an EGR.
2) The inert gasses introduced to the combustion mixture keeps cylinder temps down...this helps reduce knock.
3) Removing the EGR has no effect on HP either way.
4) You need the EGR to keep NOx in compliance...especially on a car in CA (ones that throw a code 71).
2) The inert gasses introduced to the combustion mixture keeps cylinder temps down...this helps reduce knock.
3) Removing the EGR has no effect on HP either way.
4) You need the EGR to keep NOx in compliance...especially on a car in CA (ones that throw a code 71).
Been beaten to death. Other than NOx being the most noxious and damaging of all pollutants run sans EGR at your own risk and know the TCCS expects it to be there. I've no doubt more than one BHG has resulted from no EGR. People blame it for blowing up number 6 on a stock gasket but it doesn't occur to them not having it is what contributes to the problem. At least the knock control system is there to help out but it doesn't do anything until det actually happens..
