Remote Oil Filter/Cooler

[cadman]

I did a search on the forums, and couldn't find much on remote oil filter setups, and oil coolers. Please forgive me if I overlooked a thread that might have had this information available.

Since this system could be used in almost any turbo or N/A setup, I wanted to post it in the General Discussions area.

Question: I was thinking of installing a remote, or dual remote oil filter setup, and possibly an oil cooler. Has anyone used anything like this? Is this something that would be worth installing on a Turbo MKIII Supra? If you are using this type of system, I would be interested to know what you think about it.

Any additional information on this subject would be appriciated. It might be helpful to some people.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

 

[Nick M]

The system I see used is changing to the GE filter stud, and using an aftermarket relocatoin kit. The factory cooler is pressure based, not temps, and I think that is one thing that could be better. So if you go to the GE stud, run the cooler with a thermostat. Not a real cold one either. The oil is supposed to be warm.

I know there are various threads, try different search terms. Try oil filter relocation, not remote filter.

 

[IJ.]

I run what Nick describes using Canton Adaptors a B&M T Stat and Cooler and -10 AN fittings.

 

[miggles]

what temps for the t-stat?
does it go;
engine- remote out-filter-t stat-cooler-back to remote- back into sump?
just got the filter and cooler locations to workout and (when i get back) i'll be plumbin up mine.

 

[lagged]

with the stock turbo and manifold youre gonna have a real fun time situating/ routing the lines off of the spin on block adapter for the remote oil filter.

 

[IJ.]

Mik: 180F

Lagged: If you ditch the GTE adaptor crap and use the NA stud and a normal adaptor it's doable.

 

[Allan_MA70]

it was no problem on my black car even with the stock oil cooler adaptor

 

[mkiiSupraMan18]

IJ- You have pics of this set-up? Or maybe a little MSPaint doodle that could explain things for doorknobs like me?

 

[Gilsdorf]

I just finished installing a completely new full flow oil system.
I went with an N/A stud, Canton remote filter adapter, remote filter mount (perma coolRM-1791) w/ Canton Mecca 6.25 spin on filter (I'll use a big Ford truck filter during break-in), 180deg B&M thermostat (BMM-70259) , earls 13"x7" cooler, 2qt Canton Accusump with Electronic Pressure Control valving (20-25psi), all plumbed with Earl's AN -10 SS lines and fittings.

Mounted the accusump in the trunk, and plumbed it through the floor with a bulkhead fitting.

Tight fit for a wrench, but it should work.

Mounted the remote filter under the driver's headlight. I'll trim the plastic cover to clean it up a bit, the brass fitting is a one-way check valve so when the accusump dumps it doesn't push against the oil pump (the CM filter has an anti drain back system but I figured I didn't want to over power it and force the filter to back flow).

This is the thermostat, I got a bunch of 180 degree Earl's fittings on sale so I ended up positioning it this way, if I didn't get the hose ends so cheap I would have just turned the thermostat 90 degrees and plumbed it with right angle fittings. (one of the 180's is off until I drop the engine in). Notice the second check valve, this ensures that the oil coming from the thermostat doesn't flow back and stall when it is only partially open, it also keeps the cooler from siphoning out once the engine is turned off.

Earl's cooler mounted in front of A/C (could have gone bigger, but it is nearly twice the size of the stock one).

I drilled out the coin holder to mount the toggle switch for the electronic valve on the Accusump. It fits great and the holder closes completely (I don't have my battery hooked up, so I don't know which way is ON).

This turned out to be an expensive way to go, but knowing that I have a decent system that should stand up to any future higher horsepower goals does give me some piece of mind, (i'm currently at ~500whp, it'll handle anything I'm going to do in the future). I made all of the hose myself with a cutter I bought from Summit and for most of the fittings I just wrapped them in electric tape and used two cresent wrenches to tighten them down, (some got slightly nicked-up, but I'm not building a show car).

Matt

 

[shaeff]

^ that's sick! nice work!

-shaeff

 

[lagged]

Lagged: If you ditch the GTE adaptor crap and use the NA stud and a normal adaptor it's doable.

oh yes, i was talking about doing it with the NA stud. the problem is if you run straight fittings off of the adapter your lins will probably hit the intercooler pipe. a 90 degree low profile -10an hose end still hits the IC pipe.

i ended up using two street elbows to get the lines out of the way of everything.

 

[miggles]

thanks for the info and the heads up Ian and lagged. Ive got a old racin mate who is working at a filter/hydralic hose shop who's going to be making up my lines. I'll let him know. Im using the NA stud/nipple instead of the elbow.

 

[IJ.]

Lagged: Ahhh with ya now!
I use 45 degree elbows off the adaptor to pint the hoses forward!

Mik: Very welcome!

I just use Pirtek GP Hydraulic hose and pushlock fittings and run 90+ psi pressure with no leaks.
(personally I think braided is way overkill for a car oiling system)