Rebuilt more sooner than later...

[dusthead]

...my 7mgte has rod knock(unverified now...maybe valve tap?), either way i was rebuilding it this winter. here's a link to my intro page...so you can see my sup:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104794

i'm goin with a rebuild. here's my list of parts/things to do, open to edits of course:
*interested in what you've paid for these parts/services*
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Part list:
-arp head studs/main studs/rod bolt set
-ACL bearing set
-Cometic mhg
-gasket kit
-ring set
-timing belt and tensioner
-waterpump, "cardon" brand?
-thermal barrier exhaust gasket
?helicoil exhaust studs
?arp fasteners
?forged pistons
?eagle rods ~$400
-take intake cam from my parts N/A

Machine shop:
hot tank ~$60
surface block ~$80
grind crank ~$90
valve job ~$450
hone&bore ~$100
inspect crank for need of cutting

Intake Manifold:
-ported/polished

Exhaust Manifold:
-ported
-ceramic coat inside/out
-wrapped

Head:
-3 angle valve job
-mild smooth intake port job
-cams, shims, buckets molydisulfied coated
-polish exhaust side
-thermal dispersment coating in/out
-remove protrusions in chamber between the valves

Block:
-moly coating: piston skirts, main/rod bearings, any bearing surface
-mirror polish of combustion chamber leaving some roughness
between the valve and fuel injector
-thermal barrier coating: crowns, exhaust ports, valve faces and combustion chamber
-crank and rods cryo'd
-machine/deck the block and inner timing cover together with
tensioner installed torqued to 36ft/lbs

Other info:
-ignite at 20deg after TDC, advance timing at different RPMs
to keep this true.
-water/meth keeps chamber/head/etc fresh and clean.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

i'm compiling this list as a combination of many threads, rebuild threads, and technical discussions. also not neccessarily going to do every thing on the list...but it's possible if i win the lottery or just take my sweet time.

 

[whitemike]

Well, why buy a 7M with BHG.. how can you be so sure that It's not going to develop rod knock as well?

 

[dslocal]

I agree with him^ you might as well do it right and go 2j right now.

 

[akito]

Looks like a nice car with a nice paint job. If you have another car to drive, as i see the tercel ( of course fix the timing belt, those are cheap even if you dont want to do it your self) then go head and rebuild the 7m while you're at it. Theres no point of buying another one and still have to fix the HG. Do it once and do it right is the way to go.

 

[dusthead]

thanks for quick replies people.

yea i've thought of putting in a newer engine but i sort of like the "challenge" with the 7m. especially after reading a thread with L2A intercoolers...with one that was the same size as our 3000 pipe...just clock the compresser and you have unbelievably less piping/lag.

i had already bought some performance parts to start my modding...but i think i'm going to sell them off, finish selling my parts car, an make room in the garage to rebuild my motor. i agree with you akito.

should be interesting. gonna need a cherry picker (right name?) and engine stand...will give me a chance to, as you said, do it right. port/polish head, mhg, new studs, bearings, seals, an maybe even upgrade the rods and such. always have been a fan of taking things apart to see how they tick...i'll get to clean it all up real nice this way.

just gotta be EXTREMELY carefull when pulling this engine out...this is a brand new paint job within 8 months...

 

[dusthead]

added the list. open and asking for .02cents and inputs. thanks

 

[Mr.Forks]

added the list. open and asking for .02cents and inputs. thanks

hot tanking isn't the best option, theres other forms of block cleaning that wont ruin the freeze-plugs.
besides an engine stand and cherry picker, you should look into a load leveler for when you remove the motor, helps out a lot.
harborfreight.com has engine stands for $50 if you don't already have one

 

[supraguy@aol]

As a habit, I always replace freeze plugs with a rebuild anyway. I like to remove the old plugs and make sure the coolant passages have no crud/ sediment in them.

 

[dusthead]

hot tanking isn't the best option, theres other forms of block cleaning that wont ruin the freeze-plugs.
besides an engine stand and cherry picker, you should look into a load leveler for when you remove the motor, helps out a lot.
harborfreight.com has engine stands for $50 if you don't already have one

after a quick look at stands...

what max weight should i go for? is 1000lbs enough? i'd figure it would be.

 

[gaboonviper85]

1000 pounder will be fine.

 

[Lee_MA61]

More than enough

but the 1000lbs stands are nice as they don't tend to sag like the 750lb stands in my experience.

 

[Mr.Forks]

1000lbs should be more then enough, just make sure its not one of the three wheeled one legged ones
I had one of those tip over once due to sinking blacktop garage floor, not a pretty thing

 

[JonoTurbo]

Jason, I recommend considering Northeast Auto machine in Wethersfield if they're still in business (their website seems to have gone defunct). They built my old 7m along with many, many others. It cost me $1600 to have my engine rebuilt top to bottom with a cometic mhg, new bearings and seals, and arp hardware. I didn't have some of the more advanced things you have listed done like the cryo treat though.

 

[dusthead]

Jason, I recommend considering Northeast Auto machine in Wethersfield if they're still in business (their website seems to have gone defunct). They built my old 7m along with many, many others. It cost me $1600 to have my engine rebuilt top to bottom with a cometic mhg, new bearings and seals, and arp hardware. I didn't have some of the more advanced things you have listed done like the cryo treat though.

yea the list is like a - if i were to do the "perfect build". haha. i'm compiling it for myself and for someone who wants to know EVERYTHING that can be done to make the 7mgte be the "best it can be".

when get rid of my parts car, pull the engine from my main car, and park it in my garage...i figure thats when i'll be deciding on whether it will be a long, pricy, rebuild to the specs in the list - or pick and choose you know.

thanks a lot for the recommendation, definitely was one of my future searches for CT machine shops :biglaugh: