Rear BBK anyone?

1jz-Rolla

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Sep 11, 2011
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The sleeves are usually swaged with the fitting at the time of manufacture, so the cutter-style screw together fittings couldn't accommodate them. Is that what you're referring to though?
 

jt2ma71

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www.cardomain.com
1jz-Rolla;1882232 said:
The sleeves are usually swaged with the fitting at the time of manufacture, so the cutter-style screw together fittings couldn't accommodate them. Is that what you're referring to though?

The fittings listed are only for the existing brake lines and the caliper. The line itself can have the sleeves and still not affect the fitment as long as they are -3 female ends. Mine are not cutter style hose ends, they are swaged.
 

eraezer

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Nov 6, 2008
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This is a nice thread, thanks for the info :)

Just curious, what is the weight difference between the stock rear and evo rear?
I've searched for weight info on the evo caliper but didnt find any.
 

1jz-Rolla

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Sep 11, 2011
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Some comparative measurements of the STi vs OEM rotors:

OEM:

Disc Diameter: 290mm
Disc Thickness: 18mm
Hat height: 50.5mm (from front face of disc)
Center bore: 60.06mm
E-brake drum: 190mm
Drum depth: 63mm (measured from rear face of disc)
Hub face thickness: 6.0mm


Sti:


Disc Diameter: 316mmm
Disc Thickness: 20mm
Hat height: 46.0mm (from front face of disc)
Center bore: 58.0mm
E-brake drum: 190mm
Drum depth: 59.55mm (measured from rear face of disc)
Hub face thickness: 6.5mm
 

1jz-Rolla

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Sep 11, 2011
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Pics


OEM:

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Sti:

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Note the step in the handbrake (e-brake) surface in this shot:

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Not sure if the step interferes with the friction surface of the e-brake shoe - need to do some measurements when its taken apart on the car.



Cheers
Phil
 

spiller

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Mar 5, 2008
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^ so if I take my rotors down to the shop to be bored I should tell them to go to exactly 60.06mm? 60.1mm should be ok surely? Did you end up going with RDA rotors too Phil? Mine didnnt come with the painted hat!
 

1jz-Rolla

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Sep 11, 2011
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Took mine out to 60.6mm (so roughly 0.5mm total clearance). You want them to be snug to avoid any run-out, but not a press-fit cause they may not seat properly against the hub.

Yeah my rotors are RDA. And I painted the hats, you can see the rough masking edge :p. RDA also do a gold-passivated finish to stop rust, but that would look so shit under black rims on a black car. My purple front alloy hats look bad enough already!
 
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spiller

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any particular paint used? i dont want it flaking off like i see in a lot of crappy lancers haha. Ill check my handbrake clearance also. If that step gets in the way, it would mean only small portion of the shoe is contacting the hat which is not ideal. I'm assuming its not an issue but ill check anyway. So 60.6mm is safe then? Id rather have the parts ready to go than pull my current rotors off the car and not be able to drive it. Actually come to think of it I have some old rotors at home so ill take one of them down with me and tell them to match it.
 

1jz-Rolla

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spiller;1884281 said:
any particular paint used? i dont want it flaking off like i see in a lot of crappy lancers haha. Ill check my handbrake clearance also. If that step gets in the way, it would mean only small portion of the shoe is contacting the hat which is not ideal. I'm assuming its not an issue but ill check anyway. So 60.6mm is safe then? Id rather have the parts ready to go than pull my current rotors off the car and not be able to drive it. Actually come to think of it I have some old rotors at home so ill take one of them down with me and tell them to match it.

Just VHT high temp caliper paint in the can. With track work its likely to eventually come away in any case i'm sure...... not many paints would deal with the expected temps, but the rears are more likely to survive than the fronts at least.

Yep, I'd say its a good idea to remove that step while in the lathe.... as you say, less than 100% coverage for the brake shoes is not ideal, especially for those of us that like to compete in motorkhana events :)


yhatzee89;1884285 said:
So wait a min, I have to get something else machined out while on the lathe?

Not sure yet mate....... nobody seems to have mentioned/checked the e-brake shoe coverage on here yet, but hey, if people are happy to fit brake lines intended for a flared seal to a banjo location on the caliper, then proper e-brake fitment is hardly going to be a worry for them :p haha
 

spiller

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1jz-Rolla;1884289 said:
Not sure yet mate....... nobody seems to have mentioned/checked the e-brake shoe coverage on here yet, but hey, if people are happy to fit brake lines intended for a flared seal to a banjo location on the caliper, then proper e-brake fitment is hardly going to be a worry for them :p haha
yeah thats a worry, lol.

Surely someone can chime in and confirm this for us?

as for $400, this upgrade has ended up costing me close to $800 when I factor in the rebuilding of the calipers and good quality pads. It seems a lot of people are skipping some steps and slapping on the cheapest rotors they can find and in some cases even using the original Evo lines and pads that came with their calipers. It kind of nullifies the point of the upgrade in my eyes but I guess they still get to have a cool BremBRO sticker on their supra huh.
 

1jz-Rolla

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Sep 11, 2011
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Agreed 100% spiller........ maybe this is a better option hey!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-3D-B...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27cbfc14bf


I "might" get a chance to go out to the garage this afternoon and pull a rear brake apart to confirm the brake shoe offset.... Have buggered 2 discs in my back at the moment though, so swinging a spanner in a tight space is not ideal. Will just take a shot of concrete beforehand. Haha

BTW: Some other brake manufacturers may not produce their rotors with that step, so it may not be a problem for all. yhatzee, have you received yours yet to check?