re-build question

[pimptrizkit]

hey guys, just started college again and first thing where doing is rebuilding a motor, and ive eben dieing to through new bearings into my block..

i have a jdm gte, and also have a 7m (block no guts.. )
my gte block has a crack from water jacket-head bolt-water jacket

my question is, do i prep my gte for a mhg correctly this time, and ignore the crack, try to fix it, possibly ruining the block,

or just prep the n/a block with the turbo parts. crank, pistons rods. what ever can be re-used (remember this is a running turbo motor)

i also plan to put arp main studs in, and possibly rod bolts aswell. i already have head studs.

i do know the n/a block doesn't have oil squiters, but wanted some opions on weather what im thinking about doing is a smart decision. and possible some advice to push me into the right direction.

thanks alot, stubz

 

[IJ.]

Pic of the crack?

 

[boost fiend]

i did read in a car craft that they had a way to fix cracks in cast iron blocks.

http://www.locknstitch.com/

and there was somthing on cast iron welding repairs but i cant find any info to link too. basicaly they heat it up and spray a high-nickel granule with some other stuff and they slowly cool it down again and machine it.

but me, with my lead foot and a turbo car, i think id just prep the other block.

 

[boostadikt]

id go with the NA block and put all the turbo parts in it the difference is the NA has no oil squirtirs and only one knock sensor, the oil squirtirs cause an oil pressure loss and you want as much pressure as you can get every rebuild ive done i have welded them shut.

if you do want to use the turbo, you will be fine running that crack as long as everything else is propper, iron stitching is expensive and if done wrong will cause hundreds of mini spyder cracks to develop over time, if you are majorly concerned about it you can use a wire feed to fill in the crack and file it down and get the block resurfaced and it will be almost as good as new.

make sure you use only quality parts in your rebuild that is a common mistake i see on the forums, people dont want to wait and dont want to spend the money, just do it right and play it safe, use all arp studs/bolts mic everything use plastigauge and DO IT RIGHT

on that note i have some clevite 77 main bearings 45$ shipped, pm me if interested

 

[pimptrizkit]

if i go with the n/a block, what do i do for oil feed line for the turbo and oil drain?

this is the n/a block i have to use, when i first got my car, the rods and crank have been donated to my brother's turbo re-build.


i am unsure how deep the crack is. i do know that hole has a bottome to it, so if coolent leaks, it wouldn't go into oil, (no problems so far)

im half temped to continue to use my block if my machinest will deck the block. im affraid he may not be willing to do the work

if you want actualy pictures of the crack, give me about 2 weeks, i need to get my bro's car on the road and mine parked.

 

[pimptrizkit]

well i guess pix might be coming sooner then latter.

i need to have an engine for class by tomorrow so im going to be yanking mine out of the car tomorrow. , fun fun. guess i could pull my wide band off and down pipe, and let my brother install on his car. possibly be upgrading to a new down pipe, im thinking of looking for a 3.5inch or 4 inch but yet to find any..

 

[boostadikt]

why wouldn't your machinist be willing to do the work? does the na block have cracks also or did you just draw them in so we can see? it looks a little rough like there is a lot of pitting but it can be salvaged

 

[pimptrizkit]

i drew them in to give an idea of the cracks in my turbo block..

i heard some times cracks can break cutters. so wasn't sure there.
i might just clean up and prep the n/a block for future builds.

but im pullin the engine tomorrow at school, while im in there im going to replace the front sub frame cause it's bent , well im going to replace it before i put the new motor back in.

well off to get another supra put back together!

 

[mk3forme]

ok I have a question about this as well. I am going through a rebuild as well and pulled my motor out of an 89 turbo. This was suppose to me a low mileage jdm motor that blew a headgasket. But when I get the oil pan off, there are no oil squirters. My question is this. Boostad stated that one difference between gte and gt is the number of knock sensors. Is there only one location for a knock sensor on the block, or are all the blocks the same and one of the two are capped.Cause my supposed NA block has 2 knock sensors. Im trying to determine if this is in fact and NA block, which I think it is, or were there JDM gte blocks made without squirters. I know this maybe a dumb question but this is my first motor rebuild and have to experience in comparing the two like you pro's. Also any other opinions on the use of an NA block w/o squirters for a turbo build up would be appreciated. Thanks for the help

 

[pimptrizkit]

ok I have a question about this as well. I am going through a rebuild as well and pulled my motor out of an 89 turbo. This was suppose to me a low mileage jdm motor that blew a headgasket. But when I get the oil pan off, there are no oil squirters. My question is this. Boostad stated that one difference between gte and gt is the number of knock sensors. Is there only one location for a knock sensor on the block, or are all the blocks the same and one of the two are capped.Cause my supposed NA block has 2 knock sensors. Im trying to determine if this is in fact and NA block, which I think it is, or were there JDM gte blocks made without squirters. I know this maybe a dumb question but this is my first motor rebuild and have to experience in comparing the two like you pro's. Also any other opinions on the use of an NA block w/o squirters for a turbo build up would be appreciated. Thanks for the help

well i almost used my n/a block, but since i had not water in the stud hole, and i was getting it decked, we decided, it probaly wont cause harm, and use a little sealer if really worried about it. im using studs, so if the stud is hard to pull it wont be a big deal.
any ways, i got some numbers.

bur unfortunitly not with me...\
\
but i plastigauged the rods and mains, and got .038mm on all of them execpt, main 6 witch had some scrathces in the bearing and when did that one it fell out to .051mm and max service limit is .055mm
the crank looks great, i have some numbers, but i feel since im still learning the correct method to measure the bearin surface it may take time to learn how much resistence and when im holdig it half way or not..

im a great mecanic, but when im playin with my engine, like any one else might do, im curious and have questions.. i have the block completly stripped, and i should have took it to get decked today. .. any ways soon enough for a stubz build up thread!..