Random/Intermittent Misfire and Code 52 (knock sensors are rewired)

Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
0
0
Downers Grove, IL
Here's the scenario.

Vehicle: 1992 N/A Supra
Engine/Harness/ECU: 1991 7MGTE
Turbo: Modified CT-26
Air Flow Metering Device: MAFT w/ 3.5" GM MAF
Fuel: Aeromotive AFPR, Walbro 255lph, Precision 550cc injectors, Driftmotion Fuel Damper Bypass and AFPR kits installed.
Ignition: NGK Iridium IX BKR8EIX Spark Plugs (did not gap, as they are recommended not to be) Issue is present with both Stock Ignition coils and wires, as well as 2JZ VVTi Coils and wires.
Knock sensors: 1 brand new, and one used. Both 92+ style. The used one came from the original 86k mile 92 7MGE engine, which ran perfect with no codes.

Codes Present:
Code 52, but only after raising rpm above 2.5k rpm, and under slight load.

Symptom:
Engine intermittently misfires at idle and through the RPM range. Above ~3.5k missfire increases and Code 52 is thrown. Missing cylinder has yet to be identified. At times it idles and revs perfectly smooth with no miss. sometimes it seems to idle fine, but breaks up with increased throttle. Sometimes it has a constant miss at idle and all rpm. Also, when I press the throttle closed all the way, using the throttle linkage in the engine bay (all the way against the bump stop), the engine stumbles and sometimes dies. Not sure if that is normal.

Diagnostics Performed:
Pulled all plugs and all are black with carbon like each cylinder is running rich. I assume this is because the O2 sensor is reading lean from the lack of combustion in the missing cylinder(s), causing the ECU to enrichen the fuel mixture. No significant variation in color between them.

The misfire remains unchanged whether the vehicle is started and run with the MAF connected or disconnected. The MAF and MAFT setup came from a friend with a good running vehicle. I have not 'tested' the MAFT, although based upon my observations it seems to be operating normally (Green light dim at idle and brightens with throttle. Red flashes once on startup). The GM 3.5" MAF tested within spec.

The CPS wiring is all good. I replaced the harness side connector and checked the wires/connector on the CPS and they are good as well.

Fuel pressure was set to 43psi base with T1 and E1 jumped. That being said, fuel pressure drops to ~32 psi when the throttle is depressed under no load (free revving) and vacuum applied. I'm unsure of whether or not that is within spec. I thought it may have been bad gas, as the car sat with less than 1/8th of a tank for five months while I performed the GTE swap. To correct this, I filled it completely with fresh 93 and the problem has not changed; though the burned fuel does smell better.

The issue is the same with both the stock coil pack and wires, as well as with the 2JZ VVTi COP mod (I've tested both ways). All coils and wires were tested and are within spec. With key on, each ignition coil has 12V at pin 1 of each connector (within spec). Wires and Coils all ohmed and within spec.

I have not yet tested the TPS, although I did notice that it has a blue part number sticker on it; which, to my knowledge, indicates it is for a pre-1990 throttle body whereas a later model throttle body would have a red part number sticker. Now, I purchased the complete engine, harness, and ECU setup locally from a car that I watched start and run with no idle or drivability issues. I'm not sure if he ever replaced the whole throttle body with an earlier unit, allowing for use of the older style sensor; or if the wrong sensor is currently installed on a late model throttle body. How can I identify the year of the throttle body and/or what sensor is supposed to be used? Or, is it not an issue of the year of the throttle body, but of the ECU/wiring harness? Either way, I plan to test the TPS via the TSRM. I will reply with the results.

I rewired the knock sensors using RG-6 coax cable. I tested for continuity between the shielding and ECU pin for each knock sensor circuit and there is no continuity (good). There is also no continuity between the knock sensor circuits. I will have to pull the alternator and ohms test the complete circuits from the sensors to the ECU pinouts to verify their integrity. I will also test the sensors themselves. However, while these items may be causing the code 52, I believe they are unrelated to the misfire.

I feel like there's an issue with the ignition system, possibly bad wiring in the harness somewhere causing the miss to occur intermittently. I've heard of the 'igniter ground mod,' which I have not yet done and need to read into. Looking for any guidance as to what system/subsystems I may have overlooked and what a good approach to tackling this issue may be. I'll answer all questions as concisely as possible. Thanks in advance for your help.

-Chris





RESOLUTION CLIFFS

Thanks again to everyone who has helped to diagnose these issues.

CLIFFS:

Misfire due to loose injector connector.

Code 52 due to disconnected rear Knock Sensor connector.

When troubleshooting an issue with a vehicle, always practice the KISS method! Keep It Simple, Stupid!


Information regarding break-up @ 3500 RPM can be found here:

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...egardless-of-Load-Boost&p=1827163#post1827163
 
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Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
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0
Downers Grove, IL
Updated with further detail. I suppose I should also add that I am searching past threads as time allows. I bumped one of them hoping to get some information from the OP.
 

Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
0
0
Downers Grove, IL
Thank you for the recommendation. I thiiiiiink I fixed the misfire by adjusting the TPS. Everything is now in spec, except for one reading (E2 and EDL are supposedto be 2.3k ohms with a 50mm feeler gauge between the throttle and set screw, my reading was 9-12 ohms). It seems to be gone after doing a quick cruise, but I'll have to do some more testing in the A.M. to be sure. I also went ahead and replaced the battery ground cables.

Unfortunately, it still seems to be breaking up in the upper RPM range and throwing a code 52. I'll figure this thing out, eventually!

P.s. I used JSeaman's TPS Calibration writeup and it was EXCELLENT!

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...on-Sensor)&highlight=throttle+position+sensor
 
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ifyouaint1sturlast

Banned Scammer - I'm whitemike.
Jun 14, 2011
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Fort Myers/Cape Coral - Florida
TPS is 51.

Code 52 is strictly knock sensor circuit fault. It means either your sensor is bad, your wiring is bad, or your ECU is bad. Period.

1) Sensor: Test it according to TSRM
2) Wiring: Test continuity between sensor and ECU, check that shielding is grounded, check that there is NO continuity between shield and signal wire. Etc.
3) ECU: Try another.

Boom. I just fixed your car ;)
 

Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
0
0
Downers Grove, IL
Does it mean there's a fault in the circuit, or is that also the same code that would be triggered if knock is, in fact, occuring? What are the odds that the code 52 and breaking up at higher rpm (no load) are related?

I've verified continuity between the shielding and ground. No continuity between the shielding and the knock sensor circuits. I still need to verify the integrity of the knock sensor circuits and knock sensors.
 
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AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
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Florida
Not totally sure, but I thought that a bad knock sensor, code 52, would cause the ECU to pull timing.

Have you checked your timing?

Also don't think there is an easy way of checking the knock sensor, short of having a scope or just replacing it.
 

Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
0
0
Downers Grove, IL
Yup, at idle with T1 and E1 jumped timing is set to 10* per TSRM spec and instructions. Granted I haven't double checked that since adjusting the TPS and I do notice the car idles low now, so I'll recheck that again.

The code 52 I'm getting resets with every key cycle and does not return until the engine is brought up to or past ~2800 RPM.
 

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
2,419
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Florida
Changing the TPS setting will alter the base timing.

Maybe I missed it, any motor work done, could be a reason it's setting off the knock sensor?

After rebuilding mine the sensor code would come up on mine above a certain rpm also, changed to a JDM one hasn't done it since. I believe with the cams and stroker kit it was sencing a knock, don't really know if the JDM one's are different I figured that with the crap fuel they have there they would have to have a different one not as sensative.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
ifyouaint1sturlast;1825581 said:
...Code 52 is strictly knock sensor circuit fault. It means either your sensor is bad, your wiring is bad, or your ECU is bad. Period...

Chrisco;1825583 said:
...I've verified continuity between the shielding and ground. No continuity between the shielding and the knock sensor circuits. I still need to verify the integrity of the knock sensor circuits and knock sensors....

Chrisco;1825583 said:
...I will have to pull the alternator and ohms test the complete circuits from the sensors to the ECU pinouts to verify their integrity. I will also test the sensors themselves...

Just thought I'd point all that out. That last one is especially amusing.
 

Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
0
0
Downers Grove, IL
Which part was amusing? I wired the grounds for the shielding at the ECU, so I was able to test for continuity between the grounds and the actual knock sensor circuits easily. No continuity between them so I knew the sensors weren't shorted to ground.

Today I pulled the alternator (for ease of access to the knock sensors) and tested both circuits. Both tested perfectly, no resistance, no shorts. Turns out the code 52 was due to the rear connector not being connected. Oops. Though that's a bit embarrassing, it's also a relief that my wiring is good and it was a simple fix.

Unfortunately, the misfire has come back. Fortunately, I believe I pin pointed the problem. As it started missing I heard a buzzing sound coming from the intake. Closer inspection indicated the sound was loudest near the Cold Start Injector. At this time I thought I'd take a look at the fuel pressure gauge; fuel pressure dropped to ~33 psi. Now, this alarmed me because earlier, when the car wasn't missing, I rechecked fuel pressure and it was up to 53psi. Mind you I had initially set base fuel pressure at 43 psi, but it was while the car was missing. This leads me to believe that the CSI is bad, or there is some fault in the wiring harness causing the CSI to energize. Either way, I should have this fixed soon. I'll post back with the results. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,815
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Chrisco;1825759 said:
Fuel pressure was set to 43psi base with T1 and E1 jumped. That being said, fuel pressure drops to ~32 psi when the throttle is depressed under no load (free revving) and vacuum applied.

Stock pressure is 36psi for GTE (the GE is 41 psi ), and is set with FP to B+ with the engine off. T1-E1 is for checking codes?

Have you ever measured Vf on the ECU during driving?
 

Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
0
0
Downers Grove, IL
3p141592654;1825816 said:
Stock pressure is 36psi for GTE (the GE is 41 psi ), and is set with FP to B+ with the engine off. T1-E1 is for checking codes?

Have you ever measured Vf on the ECU during driving?

Ah thanks for the tip, not sure why I mistook T1 and E1 for setting fuel pressure. I knew 43 was higher than stock, but thought I'd bump it up a bit for the 550cc injectors. I'll set it to factory spec using the procedure you linked. Thanks for the info!

I have measured vf while driving (when it wasn't misfiring) and it seems to oscillate between three voltages; 1.0xx, 2.2xx and 3.5xx. Adjustments with the MAFT (not pro) don't seem to have any effect on vf; unless I make a drastic change by quickly turning the idle dial 180*, them vf drops to .0xx and the car nearly dies.

Update on CSI. Unplugging the connector returned fuel pressure to my base setting and the buzzing went away, but the miss is still present.
 

Chrisco

Build in Progress
Jan 4, 2009
62
0
0
Downers Grove, IL
If I might defend myself for a moment, though unnecessary as it may be, his information was certainly not ignored. My replies were in order of what I had already checked, and on to what I still had left to check. I just wanted to be as clear and concise about everything I've done while diagnosing the issue so that readers fully understand the situation. I apologize if I did a poor job of expressing my appreciation for, and/or acknowledgement of, anyone's input to this thread.

I will continue to update with my results as testing is completed.