Race Ready 7M

[CajunKenny]

Good and simple solution. I'll try that next time for added assurance that there will not be a precipitous drop in oil pressure. I may also need to go to an AccuSump type set up? I currently have one quart in the oil cooler and hoses, then another seven in the motor. I'm asking questions and learning...

Just to be clear... I meant one additional quart past the 'Full' mark on the dipstick.

Your oil capacity is close to mine. I'm in the ~8.5-9 quart range. I like having the additional capacity.

 

[Van]

Just to be clear... I meant one additional quart past the 'Full' mark on the dipstick.

Your oil capacity is close to mine. I'm in the ~8.5-9 quart range. I like having the additional capacity.

That's what I understood. Thanks, Kenny for making sure I got it.

 

[Moy]

Good and simple solution. I'll try that next time for added assurance that there will not be a precipitous drop in oil pressure. I may also need to go to an AccuSump type set up? I currently have one quart in the oil cooler and hoses, then another seven in the motor. I'm asking questions and learning...

I have an AccuSump fs if you're interested Shipping might be a pain in the rump, but I have one haha

 

[Van]

I have an AccuSump fs if you're interested Shipping might be a pain in the rump, but I have one haha

Thanks for the offer Moy. For now I'm concentrating on getting the BIC DDP recirculated and the coolant surge tank hooked up and working properly.
Next will be a CT 26 rebuild. It's now burning some oil...
With regard to running the car w/o a thermostat on the track; Does that help engine cooling during track conditions?

 

[bloodasp90]

i still got that other CT on the bench if you want..

 

[Van]

The following post is excerpted from "Road Racing w/o a Thermostat" on SM. Here is the background on the other problem the car experienced:

In order for my car to dominate the race, I need every ounce of torque, so I run it between 3500 to 6500RPM. During a twenty minute period I begin to see the coolant temp rise to near the red line, so I needed to short shift to cool it off a little, but it is usually not capable of getting back into it as there is usually only two laps to go. My question is might we see lower temps after we ditch the thermostat?
Mods are: Koyo Race radiator, 14 LBS radiator cap, 7qt motor oil sump, 1qt oil cooler

Do you still have the undercover? I believe this makes a difference with airflow through the radiator, but I'm not certain.
-AM3

Yes I do have the under covers on the car...

You may actually see higher temps without the thermostat, since the coolant won't be spending enough time in the radiator to shed heat. That might also be the problem that it's having once things get hot.
It was suggested at the track that the car be fitted w/a 16 Lbs radiator cap...

Make sure that the radiator is getting the airflow that it needs, and that you're not needlessly keeping heat under the hood. The undercover DOES help force air through the radiator, as does the fan shroud.

I also run a fan shroud and have a 2800 CFM fan fitted through a thermostat (190 degree) and relay. It was suggested that the car not have a fan and shroud when running on the track, as it isn't needed...

what fans do you have? also if you are hitting the redline on the water temps you are boiling over and losing water

Got close to 220 degrees all day long... Didn't boil over, but the car was driven at under 90 MPH in 5th to cool it down...

try adding some "redline water wetter". it helps lower the temp.

Some at the track also don't use anything else; that and water...

Pretty sure his water temp on track will be over ~190 Fahrenheit so the thermostat will be open the whole time anyway...

Yes just below 220 all day... On Auto Meter gauge

Do you have all the air dams and such?
Yes

Have you thought of hooking up sprayers directed at the radiator? Something to spray a mist of water onto the front of the radiator might help cool it.

Never thought to do that. I'm going to hook up the 1 Gal surge tank to the Koyo Race radiator, put on the 16 Lbs radiator cap and see what happens...

 

[crisp]

As always Van, thanks for continuing to share so much information from your experiences and dialogue. Very interesting to read along.

-crisp

 

[Van]

As always Van, thanks for continuing to share so much information from your experiences and dialogue. Very interesting to read along.

-crisp

Thanks, Crisp.
I'm planning to get back out on the track in August, to see what happens with the coolant and oil temps. At this time my plan is to connect the 1 Gal surge tank and the 16Lbs radiator cap, to increase the boil point and the cooling capacity. I figure, one step at a time.
If those two items fail to control the temps, my next step will be to increase the flow through the oil cooler as suggested by IJ. I'll purchase a Canton oil filter sandwich and hook up -10 lines to the oil cooler and then hook those up to the oil filter sandwich plate. From what I understand of all this I'd best have it all done by those that know how this all works, or I could hook up things wrong and fry the engine.

 

[Van]

Yesterday, I went for a drive through 14 miles of "commuter traffic" that had an average speed of <10 MPH. Sure enough, the temp gauges for both the oil and coolant rose, but were well WNL. The ambient temps were 85 F, relative humidity 28-31%, with a light breeze 8-10 MPH (according to National Weather Svc.). Turned off the road on to the Freeway, and w/i a few minutes the temps settled back to normal for this engine. I was running the car for ten minutes at 65 MPH in 4th gear at ~3500K and there was zero temp increase in either the coolant or oil, during that period.
This weekend, my plans are to fit the 1 Gal surge tank up to the system, on a 13 LBS cap. Then on a day very similar to yesterday, take a test drive on the same road in very similar traffic conditions. My thoughts are that the extra capacity will solve the cooling problem. When it doesn't, then I'll replace the surge tank's cap with a 16 LBS rated cap, then again take the car out on the same road test, in very similar conditions. When none of this solves the cooling problem, I'll have the oil cooler changed to full flow. When that doesn't solve the problem, relocate the oil cooler out of the air stream cooling the radiator.

 

[bloodasp90]

hey Van, just a thought, transfering the heat to all that air going threw the system might not be the problem, but, where is all that heat going now is an another part of the qestion, maybe somehow venting the heat off might solve some of it.
just a thought..

 

[Van]

hey Van, just a thought, transfering the heat to all that air going threw the system might not be the problem, but, where is all that heat going now is an another part of the qestion, maybe somehow venting the heat off might solve some of it.
just a thought..

I'm thinking that I may need to purchase another oil cooler that will fit in the area behind the driver's side fog light. I have that area fitted with an air guide and duct to cool the drivers side front brake.
My plan is to keep the current air guide used for the brake and use ducting to connect it to another air guide on the oil cooler to act as a shroud, to ensure all the air reaches it, then vent out the hot air in the wheel well.
I would relocate the driver's side brake cooling duct work, to the bottom corner of the stock air guide, (used for the intercooler and radiator). It would then be set up the same as it is for the passenger's side brake cooling duct.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

Good info. I too am a road racer. Im going back to stock 10blade fan and shroud set up to see if it will help. Im gonna do full flow oil cooler. but tell me more about this surge tank? also you cut out were your front L plate goes? pics?

 

[Van]

Good info. I too am a road racer. Im going back to stock 10blade fan and shroud set up to see if it will help. Im gonna do full flow oil cooler. but tell me more about this surge tank? also you cut out were your front L plate goes? pics?

The purpose of the surge tank is to provide more cooling capacity to the system, on demand. It also acts as a reservoir of cooler fluid. The tank is connected in three places: to the top tank by a small 3/8inch line from the radiator fill neck; a 5/8inch connection at the bottom side of the surge tank to the bottom tank of the radiator; and a 3/8inch line going from the surge tank filler neck to the stock overflow tank, to keep the system closed from air.
I'm not understanding what U meant by "L" plate; beside the crash bar?

 

[1-2clutch-u]

sorry license plate. so yes the front crash bar

 

[Van]

sorry license plate. so yes the front crash bar

I just cut out the back of the crash bar to reduce the weight...

 

[Van]

This is the Oil Cooler kit I'm looking at to help keep the engine cooler: Here is the web site as well in case anyone is interested in it... http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/OilCoolerKits
They seem to have a wide array of parts to keep our cars outfitted with, some items Driftmotion usually doesn't have in stock.

 

[Van]

Here is the latest Dyno test with the recirc'd BIC, DDP:

There was no appreciable difference between the result of the second dyno test of the recirculated DDP or the prior dyno test with an open dump tube. Both tests were done in the same conditions, but different days. OAT was identical although the relative humidity was not. Notice that there was a slight improvement in the numbers after the dump tube was recirculated.
To me, this set up is proof of concept for how much power the 7MGTE, Toyota Supra, might have been able to make from the factory, using their 1987 era electrics and mechanical parts. Let's see; Go from 230 to 375 BHP
Of course, Toyota would have needed to add the forged pistons, do the extensive head work, and then be willing to add a full three inch exhaust... A lighter drive train... Another 6 grand added to the cost, or about $35K for a Toyota? Nah, wasn't gonna happen in that market I guess?
Oh! What A Feeling!

 

[kakanator]

how many psi was that run done at?

 

[Van]

I didn't ask Wryann, at VIP Performance (he did the testing). Though I never run the car higher than 13 psi. I'm a set it and forget it owner... I asked Wryann to set the tune for reliability and then I don't adjust the settings; ever.

 

[Van]

I was passing another car on the street to get the lane I needed. The other driver sped up so I nailed the throttle and the engine over came the clutch... the engine went straight to the rev limiter. The clutch kit is a Fadanza FW, stock Supra clutch disc and Action 2800 PP. The OAT was 98 degrees, traveling about 30 MPH in second gear on level ground, and rubber is BFGs 255x17. I had been driving for 30 minutes, plenty of time to heat up the rubber, before I nailed the throttle. I got under the car to look for oil seeping out from somewhere; bone dry!
On another day that was ten degrees cooler, I tried the same process, but this time no clutch slip.
What was causing this, I don't know... :dunno: I suspect it is heat related, as this is a one year old clutch and throughout the track day in June, the only problem was cooling, not drive train related. During that day the OAT was in the 70s.