Race Ready 7M

[CajunKenny]

Hi Van! This is great stuff. Cutting no corners. I like it!

Question: I'm wanting to get my car tuned in a few months. I'm running the Maft-Pro. Do you know of anyone over there that is familiar with the Maft-Pro and/or who you would recommend?

Thanks and keep up the great work!

 

[Van]

Hi Van! This is great stuff. Cutting no corners. I like it!

Question: I'm wanting to get my car tuned in a few months. I'm running the Maft-Pro. Do you know of anyone over there that is familiar with the Maft-Pro and/or who you would recommend?

Thanks and keep up the great work!

No, I don't know of anyone that tunes Maft. Van

 

[Van]

As promised here is the engine, installed and almost ready for a baseline tune, then off to the dyno for a fine tuning. Thanks for looking. Van

 

[dubsupra209]

you came along way looking great...are you going to post a video of your dyni runs..? i would like that..haha ; )

 

[Highnitro]

you came along way looking great...are you going to post a video of your dyni runs..? i would like that..haha ; )

i second that motion, vids of the dyno for sure. looks good david!

 

[Van]

The new cooling system: 3 Row, Dimple Tube, Twin Pass, Copper Brass Radiator & Surge Tank, by ABLE Radiator:

 

[sirgeorgee]

Hey Van

She is looking really sweet

Dont forget to show us the whole car

Great engine build

Congratulations

 

[stomis]

www.superclean.com

Awesome man sweet underhood. One of the most uncluttered turbo cars I've seen.

 

[WhtMa71]

Excellent build! I like how you got EVERYTHING coated. I noticed in the engine pics that you still have the stock filter head attached. Will you be running the stock pressure based setup or did you switch to a thermostatically controlled setup?

 

[Van]

I switched to a RX7 thermopellet oil cooler, yet to install and connect. I will remove the pressure activated valve. Then the oil will flow under pressurre to the thermopellet and by-pass into the oil pan. When the oil temp reaches critical temp (at 180 degrees) the thermopellet opens allowing the oil into the cooler and back into the oil pan. After the oil reaches a safe temp, the thermopellet slams shut, the oil in the cooler remains there under pressure, until the critical oil temp is reached and the cycle starts again.
I had everything coated to keep out the heat, and I'm told that it will also help in the longevity of the parts as well. Thanks for your interest. Van

Excellent build! I like how you got EVERYTHING coated. I noticed in the engine pics that you still have the stock filter head attached. Will you be running the stock pressure based setup or did you switch to a thermostatically controlled setup?

---------- Post added at 10:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:15 PM ----------

I'm also pleased that it turned out as it did. My plan was to simplify the car, so that only those items needed for racing and street use, would remain. I'm glad you like it. Van

www.superclean.com

Awesome man sweet underhood. One of the most uncluttered turbo cars I've seen.

---------- Post added at 10:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 PM ----------

Thanks for the complement. After I get it running, my plans are to start workiing on the aerodynamics of the body, adding a splitter under the front air dam and a rear defuser, both fabed from aluminum (.090 thick). I'm undecided about which type of rear wing. Any emperical data on what type of wing and its size/height, for our Supras, would be helpful. After that, will come the interior.
I'll have more pics in the near future as this Supra is preped for racing. Van

Hey Van

She is looking really sweet

Dont forget to show us the whole car

Great engine build

Congratulations

 

[Highnitro]

any updates? im interested to see how this is going.

 

[Van]

Hey,
I'm having major electrical issues w/the Supra, since the rebuild. Just like another member on here, "Sawbladz".
My Supra is having the same sumptoms as Sawbladz's; Fp relay chatter and dash lights: check engine, battery and Alt lights all lit, without the key in the ignition. I only rebuilt my motor, nothing else elctrical was touched. I still haven't gotten it sorted out!
Thanks for asking. Van

 

[Van]

Here is a pic of what the engine looks like installed in the engine bay... There is more in the Supra Build Up Gallery "Sticky" Supramania's Elite Engine Bay thread... Search for Van, in the thread. Thanks for looking. Van

 

[thedave925]

LOW battery will do the funny electrical act.
Lights will blink more subdued as well...

 

[Van]

Thanks, Dave. I got it all sorted, after I correctly connected the ground wires from the ECU to the intake runners, and off the battery posiitive pole on the starter. My ECU is toast, so now I'm in the market for another ECU. This time I'll even take a stock one, just to get it running again. Van

 

[Van]

I went to get the 7M dyno tuned on Friday, Oct 29th, but the session was cancelled because of misfire. The 7M has an oil leak around the cam covers into the plug valley. The wires were all dried out and the plugs cleaned. They inspected all the plugs and are all set to .030 and indexed. The misfire at the dyno on Friday was bad enough, that the run was cancelled. The 7M needs to have the misfire sorted out before a dyno tune. The misfire comes on under load and boost. It is their thought that the igniter may be on its last legs, as the coils are new. The CPS was corroded on the surfaces and they cleaned them w/WD40 and a cloth rag, but that didn't improve matters. The wires going into the CPS are suspect, as they are hard. I'm going to check their specs today along w/ those of the igniter. O2 sensor was not checked for spec yet. I'll post up results here. The car drives well unless I push quickly on the accelerator pedal. I may also need to rule out the current setting of the TPS.

Since my last post, the car has a bunch of new Toyota electrics: three 7MGTE ignition coils, TPS, 2JZGTE fuel pump (w/ 12V mod), ND FP relay, 7MGTE FPR and Damper, ND 550cc, low impedance injectors, engine wire harness and ignition coil harness. Spark plugs are three months old, NGK copper (BPR7ES), as are Toyota 7MGTE replacement plug wires.
Ignition is set per TSRM through the diagnostic block, at 10 degrees, idles at 650 rpms and 12 -13 degrees after jumper removed from diag block. This was all checked at the shop. They had wide band hooked up before the cat, the AFRs show a rich condition, during the misfire (I didn't ask for a number). The igniter and CPS are original to the '88, 7MGTE I swaped in back in 2005, in my '86.5 hardtop MA70.

Mods in addition to those stated above are: Lex AFM, K&N air filter, port & polish head, ported exhaust manifold (retains reversion dam), compression ratio 9.4:1, ceramic, thermal barrier on piston tops, valve faces and cumbustion chambers.
Van

 

[Van]

O.K. I checked the CPS and it is going to need replacement as it is leaking oil into the inside through the seal. :3d_frown: Is that a cause for misfire?
I called the shop today, they suggested that I buy a used one as a new one is $650 US. The thought is I could get a good one that lasts another five years. I'm thinkibg not, and will save up for new. I can get one through Royal Moore in Hillsboro, (30 miles from Milwaukie), who are price competetive with Champion Toyota in TX.
So, I also checked the Igniter for ground, but I'm not sure I did it correctly. TSRM is not specific where to check, so I guessed it is where the white, black and red striped wire pair coming out of the body wire harness, attach to? Tomorrow I plan to test the Igniter power transistor per TSRM. Van

 

[thedave925]

Rebuild it yourself.
The retaining pin on the shaft now is metal, the one in the kit is not. I've not heard bad things about the material change, only success.


http://kbox.ca/catalog/product_info...d/252?osCsid=12758339d6817a94e44615a10656b5b6
^^ Kbox supplies a new inner bearing

http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41&products_id=66
^^ twosrus supplies a new SEAL for the inner bearing

I've personally not used these kits yet.

Better than the prices your looking at above.

Hmm the ignitor should ground out by its mount contacting the fender its on. If you don't want to ruin the pain beneath the mount bolting points, why not run a ground lead to a known TCCS ground point (any existing ground point with White-Black stripe wire)?

Ignitors do run hot but I'm not sure where the point of overheating is.

Read some other posts recently and found a thread I missed apparently:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...er-Mod-Results/page2&highlight=Jetjock+Ground

^^^ I'm sure you've already seen it lol

 

[Van]

Rebuild it yourself.
The retaining pin on the shaft now is metal, the one in the kit is not. I've not heard bad things about the material change, only success.


http://kbox.ca/catalog/product_info...d/252?osCsid=12758339d6817a94e44615a10656b5b6
^^ Kbox supplies a new inner bearing

http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=41&products_id=66
^^ twosrus supplies a new SEAL for the inner bearing

I've personally not used these kits yet.

Better than the prices your looking at above.

Hmm the ignitor should ground out by its mount contacting the fender its on. If you don't want to ruin the pain beneath the mount bolting points, why not run a ground lead to a known TCCS ground point (any existing ground point with White-Black stripe wire)?

Ignitors do run hot but I'm not sure where the point of overheating is.

Read some other posts recently and found a thread I missed apparently:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...er-Mod-Results/page2&highlight=Jetjock+Ground

^^^ I'm sure you've already seen it lol

Dave,
I just checked the resistance to the pick-up coils of the CPS and all are 158 -160 ohms (spec140-180). So beside the leak which upon closer inspection was from the leak around the cam covers, blowing in past the dust gasket. The center of the housing is dry.
On the Igniter, I just completed the ground strap mod. I noticed moisture in both connectors to the igniter, sprayed WD40 and put some dielectric grease on the seals, that should help.
I reset the TPS per TSRM as well. This all took me about 90 minutes. Time for a road test. Van

 

[thedave925]

I don't buy that the cam cover leak can make its way against gravity into the CPS case past the cover and its seal.
The CPS casing also has a bleeder hole at the bottom to let out oil build up which prevents flooding the unit.
Is there a burnt heavy oil deposit around #1 exhaust runner? Its not always cam cover/ CPS o-ring leaks that do that, as I've found previously on my old engine.

Other than that, I see good news

What was the reason behind making sure the TPS is correct?