Possible to remove crank and not remove head?
- Thread starter chris89
- Start date
y wouldnt it be just clear everything out from the bottom and mark where the crank went so the pistons will line up and it can be done anything is possible.
I've pulled the timing plate and reinstalled it with the head on. Haven't had any problems with it in the several months that have gone by. I replaced my timing belt pulley last week and checked for oil leaks.
I agree that it's not the best way to handle it. If you are trying to make this the last time you're going to have to open the engine up that you should just pull the engine and do it all by the book. I do expect to strip down my engine in the next couple years, but I have confidence that the seal will hold up just fine. Of course, if it breaks down, I am enough of a realist that I'm not going to cry about it.
Is there a specific reason you don't want to pull the head? If you've already done the HG you can rest assured it goes MUCH more smoothly the second time as most of what was going to break broke the first time.
I agree that it's not the best way to handle it. If you are trying to make this the last time you're going to have to open the engine up that you should just pull the engine and do it all by the book. I do expect to strip down my engine in the next couple years, but I have confidence that the seal will hold up just fine. Of course, if it breaks down, I am enough of a realist that I'm not going to cry about it.
Is there a specific reason you don't want to pull the head? If you've already done the HG you can rest assured it goes MUCH more smoothly the second time as most of what was going to break broke the first time.
Well the engine is freshly rebuilt with no problems except the end the crank where the key goes for the pulley is a half moon. a local performance engine building shop will fabricate a sleeve for it and weld the key in place. For $150 he will fix the tip of the crank since the bearings and everything else is brand new and perfectly in working order. I just put a brand new headgasket on it and new ARP bolts torqued to specs. the engine still runs smooth as butter even with the pulley off. So i'de like to pull it, unbolt everything and leave the head in tact with the block. pull the crank, send it in for repair. Get it back. Reassemle the whole engine and having it running for the least amount of money since i'm broke these days. What should i do to the engine this time around to add more power? I've eliminated the emissions. Setup the ACIS properly. I'de like to learn how to adjust the acis engagment to around 4,800rpm and play with it until i like where it's at. I want for it to activate right when i shift into each gear, within 100-200rpm... I've heard it's Possible but it may be one huge PITA. But i'm all for experiments.
Basically, it's gonna be a pain in the ass. It would be impossible to get the crank without pulling the motor out of the car, though.
Mark which way the crank went so the pistons line up??
There's a lot of tech. to putting a bottom end together, so be sure you have some experienced help. If you get it wrong, you get to put another crank in, at the least.
Better yet, pay someone who knows what they're doing, and offers a warranty.
Mark which way the crank went so the pistons line up??
There's a lot of tech. to putting a bottom end together, so be sure you have some experienced help. If you get it wrong, you get to put another crank in, at the least.
Better yet, pay someone who knows what they're doing, and offers a warranty.
CRE;1117496 said:I've pulled the timing plate and reinstalled it with the head on. Haven't had any problems with it in the several months that have gone by. I replaced my timing belt pulley last week and checked for oil leaks.
I agree that it's not the best way to handle it. If you are trying to make this the last time you're going to have to open the engine up that you should just pull the engine and do it all by the book. I do expect to strip down my engine in the next couple years, but I have confidence that the seal will hold up just fine. Of course, if it breaks down, I am enough of a realist that I'm not going to cry about it.
Is there a specific reason you don't want to pull the head? If you've already done the HG you can rest assured it goes MUCH more smoothly the second time as most of what was going to break broke the first time.
Cletus at best doomed to failure at worst
IJ.;1117733 said:Cletus at best doomed to failure at worst
Yeah.... well, I *thought* it'd be quicker than redoing the whole HG and I felt I should replace the timing belt anyway. I didn't say I recommended it. I just stated that I did it that way and it's held up for several months now without leaking a drop (and yes, I've checked). I do plan on pulling it all apart in the next couple years here if I can manage to get into a place with a garage or can actually convince someone to let me park my car in theirs for an extended period of time.
At any rate, the plan of action detailed by the OP sounds like a bad idea across the board.