please prove me wrong...

[monkihead]

I was enjoying a nice drive to work when i noticed my oil pressure was below normal. so i put some oil in and drive off to work again. 2 blocks from the auto part store the car begins to buck and starts to smoke. Like a chimney. i pull over check to see if theres pressure in the coolant system and theres none. i towed it home, checked again for coolant leaks or bhg. theres none. i pulled off the intake tube to the turbo assembly and had massive shaft play. i replaced the turbo assembly and it ran great for 20min. the newer turbo had virtually no shaft play, which gave me the idea that the seals were still good. i gave it one good rev and oil begins to spray out of the oil dip tube. i'm thinking massive blow by. compression test reads

cyl 1 ~ 120psi
cyl 2 ~ 180psi
cyl 3 ~ 153psi
cyl 4 ~ 150psi
cyl 5 ~ 120psi
cyl 6 ~ 180psi

should i start pricing rings?

 

[starscream5000]

Was this a hot compression test? Or dead cold?

How exactly did you test for BHG?

 

[monkihead]

Was this a hot compression test? Or dead cold?

How exactly did you test for BHG?

warm engine not quite to full temp. i used a pressure tester that goes where the radiator cap does. you pressurize the cooling system then crank it. if water is leaking into a cylinder, it will shoot out of the plug hole like a water fountain.

I'm running a copper head gasket with a steel o-ring on the head.

 

[starscream5000]

Could be sticky valves...

 

[IJ.]

How tight is the cam belt tensioner done up?
(hint: should only be 36ft/lbs)

 

[monkihead]

How tight is the cam belt tensioner done up?
(hint: should only be 36ft/lbs)

uh, what do you mean?

 

[IJ.]

If you overtighten the Cam Belt tensioner it deforms #1 cylinder wall causing low compression in that cylinder.

 

[suprarx7nut]

He's low on #1 and #5 though.

Even if that's the case for #1, he's still got a problem, right? :dunno:

 

[IJ.]

Doh!

Yep agreed! (was multitasking here and missed #5)

 

[monkihead]

can i loosen the belt and undeform it?

 

[IJ.]

It will relax a bit but it depends how tight it's been done up.

Do you have access to a leakdown tester?

 

[monkihead]

yeah, i can see about doing a leak down test this week end. I've been driving the car for a few weeks now. roughly put on 1300 miles. has arp head studs set at 90ft-lbs. copper crushed thickness of .050

 

[IJ.]

Did you do a retorque on the gasket?

 

[monkihead]

yeah, they loosened down to 80ft-lbs roughly. retorque was done a week and a half ago.

 

[IJ.]

Was the gasket annealed before it was fitted?

Never had much luck with Copper on water cooled motors can usually only ever get 1 part to seal they either leak fluids or combustion and sometimes both

 

[monkihead]

Was the gasket annealed before it was fitted?

Never had much luck with Copper on water cooled motors can usually only ever get 1 part to seal they either leak fluids or combustion and sometimes both

yes. used spray hylomar. works great. i just need to figure out where the oil is coming from, thats causing it to burn. one part of me feels it could be the rings, but i don't think thats the complete problem. could i have cracked the head?

 

[IJ.]

Cracked 7M heads are rare but who knows?

Get the leakdown results then go from there.

The leakage in #1 and #5 has to be going somewhere.

 

[monkihead]

okay, leak-down test done. cyl #1 is leaking through air to my intake and into the pan. cyl #5 isn't leaking, or loosing pressure now. but, cyl# 4 is leaking through intake.

could i have used too thick of a shim on cylinders 1 & 4? could i be loosing pressure in cyl # 5 when shims are loaded with oil?

pressure test was done while engine was cold. 50ish degrees outside.