i'm not "grasping at straws". i have stated what i thought, and what i have done. the reason for me posting is to get other peoples opinions and where i should go from here. if i knew exactly what my diagnosis was, i would have no need to ask any questions. and i didn't say my compressor housing was cracked, i stated that i included it in my boost leak test to make sure that it somehow wasn't. if i am doing something wrong, or not doing something i need to, then please let me know what i should do and how, not that i'm going the wrong direction. i am basing my thoughts on two things, 1. from what i have read about symptoms, and 2. the fact that i have found nothing wrong with the vehicles fuel and ignition system. what else could it be? maybe stuck wastegate, but i will find that out this afternoon
please help...new issue
- Thread starter 7mslider
- Start date
What I've done to test the wastegate, is to plug one of those crappy little 12v tire inflators to the wastegate line, and the WG should instantly open. Also, once you have the WG open, clamp the line, to see if it holds the gate open, or leaks down.
i checked the wastegate, not the problem. i ran another boost leak test and this time i did find a small leak on my bov where i didn't tighten down my set screw. idk if it was like that before or not. took the car out for another test drive and same deal. i did notice when i got back the engine was super hot. low and behold the temp sensor was broken in two pieces. i'm getting ready to replace tthe thermostat, temp sensor and check over to make sure i don't have any busted water lines. if the car has been running hot unknowingly, could this cause my symptoms? the good news is it doesn't look like any oil in the coolant or any coolant in the oil. hopefully i didn't burn anything up in the short drive.
How are you actually monitoring your boost. I was just curious you said it did it when you gave it full throttle around 9 to 12 psi. The stock guage just goes to 8 psi. What are you using to monitor the boost. When you press the pedal to the floor does it automatically do it or does it wait to it gets to a certain rpm. I was wondering if you rechecked the timing.
i have an autometer boost gauge. the car was originally n/a and i swapped it. i think i found my problem, the plugs seem to be fowled out. now i just have to figure out why. there is a white crust on them which correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't that usually mean the plug has gotten too hot? or the fuel system is running lean? i really hope this was due to the thermostat that i just replaced. i guess i'll change the plugs and try again. i'll be ordering an air/fuel gauge soon as well to monitor a little closer.
I believe I never got any answer on the timing. It says in my book that over advanced timing will cause the plugs to get hot. When did you change the timing belt and did you follow the proper procedure. Just curious.
i rechecked the timing, and everything seems to be fine. with cylinder 1 at tdc both marks on the cams line up perfect. i used the procedure from alldata to replace the belt. i guess this is what i get for doing too many things at once. i'm going to double check that i have the right plugs, and replace them tomorrow and i should know whether that was my problem or not.
Here is the proper procedure. Notice the hint at the bottom of this page about no. 6 cylinder and notice you have to jump the diagnostic block. Did you use a timing light. If you didn't you might go that route. I am bad to do alot of things at once too.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=19
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=19
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20
thanks. i am a complete dumbass lol. i forgot that i had taken out the cps when i cleaned it. all i did when i rechecked my timing was checked to make sure my belt hadn't slipped. i'll get the ol light out tomorrow and check it the right way. i wouldn't doubt that it's pretty screwed
When you posted that you changed the timing belt I was concerned that you did not have it back in time. Follow these steps and make sure you jumper the te1 and e1 in the diagnostic block because you will fight the computer and the timing will be off. If you set the timing at 10 degrees with it jumpered and take the jumper out it should be right around 12. You will be in there.
i'm pretty sure i found my problem. i reset the timing, and it wasn't very far off, about 8 degrees btdc. so i actually used my noodle a bit. spark was good, no boost leak. i thought the fuel situation should be fine since the previous owner had put a fuel pump and filter on right before i purchased the car. wrong! pulled the tank, yes new filter and pump, but looks like mud in the bottom of the tank. only about 1/4 of the pickup filter was showing. the rest had about an 1/8 to 1/4 inch of nastyness on it. on top of that, the ahole had broken two of the fuel lines and just clamped on vacuum line. i'll be cleaning and sealing the tank this week and ordering a new pump, and pickup and hanger assymbly. next time i won't assume that someone elses work was done right.
problem solved....put my new pickup screen on and cleaned the tank and replaced shotty fuel lines. pulls hard through all gears at all rpms now. after driving for a while now i've got code 31 so i guess tomorrow i'll check the afm. doesn't seem to be affecting the car when i'm on the gas, but it idles a little funny