Ok...I got this car since February I did tune up oil change all that stuff..This Saturday was the first time I took it for a long drive...total 250kms. I decided to check the oil today and it was all gone!...What happened??. There is no visable oil leak to speak of that I can see or it would be all over my driveway. Anyone know why it would be burning that much oil?...How serious is this?...
Oil help
- Thread starter ebang
- Start date
7m's needs lots of oil...If you ever plan on taking that long of a trip next time bring OIL with you.
Hope that you didn't oil starve the engine.
Hope that you didn't oil starve the engine.
any Burning oil smell, smoke, what color if any? anything?
Whats your mods?
Have you done any maintainance of any sort before the long trip?
You sure you don't have ne Leaks? Could have been leaking during the drive. Check for any wet spots.
I know for my car it Leaked during drives, but at idle it wouldn't
Whats your mods?
Have you done any maintainance of any sort before the long trip?
You sure you don't have ne Leaks? Could have been leaking during the drive. Check for any wet spots.
I know for my car it Leaked during drives, but at idle it wouldn't
Ya every time you fill up you should the oil every time.
If you honestly have to ask how serious this is, you probably don't deserve to be driving yet.
If you honestly have to ask how serious this is, you probably don't deserve to be driving yet.
I got the car in Feb. i did a oil change in March...and checked every 4-5 days...it was all good...there are no leaks I keep checking for spots under the car daily knowing that it is an old engine...there is a burning of oil smell during driving but I had chalked that up to the enging burning off what was there before (spills and such)...there was oil all over the engine..whoever had it did not take too much care of the engine.
my post from the other forum you posted this on...
Well, if you are burning oil its probably that your piston rings are worn and the oil is getting into the cylinders on top of the pistons where the combustion takes place and gets burned off when the spark plugs ignite the air/fuel mixture.
Well, if you are burning oil its probably that your piston rings are worn and the oil is getting into the cylinders on top of the pistons where the combustion takes place and gets burned off when the spark plugs ignite the air/fuel mixture.
A few common spots that leak: valve covers, o-ring on the distributor, cam and crank seals. As with any vehicle, the only reason it needs "lots of oil" is because it has leaks, or is buning it off. "Normal" is not the same as "correctly maintained"(which is rare). Clean all the oil and crud off the engine, and then check it daily for fresh oil stains to see where its coming from. Also, you can get a dye that goes in the oil from most auto parts stores. It'll leave a green streak everywhere its leaking from. Just follow the directions on the bottle for proper use.
oscolivar1 said:
Lol. Now that's entertainment. To the OP: What cuel said. More fixin', less driving.
A huge puff of blue smoke in the morning means your valve stem seals are slowly leaking oil onto the top of your valves all night, so when you go to start it, poof, it all goes in and burns.
Blue smoke after that, means your piston rings are bad. Do a compression and leak down check.
Blue smoke after that, means your piston rings are bad. Do a compression and leak down check.
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
My old motor smoked on start up and smoked under throttle, hell i ran out of oil once and i developed rodknock, goodluck
Definitely valve seals. Unfortunately, you have to remove the head to install new ones. Which means a new head gasket as well. If you are going to fix it, you can pull the head and take it to a machine shop and get a valve job done. Felpro head gasket kits come with new valve seals, so take those to the shop with the head, and they'll take care of everything for you. Valve job should cost around $200 (iirc), h.g. kit another $200. The head isn't too bad to pull off and put back on, just follow the TSRM.
There is a way to change the seals without removing the head, but its complicated, and requires some special tools. If you can remove and reinstall the head yourself, then do it that way.
If I was doing this, I'd go ahead and do the timing belt and water pump and t.stat while I was there, and change the crank and oil pump seals as well.
There is a way to change the seals without removing the head, but its complicated, and requires some special tools. If you can remove and reinstall the head yourself, then do it that way.
If I was doing this, I'd go ahead and do the timing belt and water pump and t.stat while I was there, and change the crank and oil pump seals as well.
So if I just remove my head gasket to replace these things before it blows..
Does it need to machined all over again????
Does it need to machined all over again????
Its not all that complicated. All you need is about 4 hours , a toyotool 6mm valve tool and valve seal pliers (about $114 total from toyotool.com and worth every penny, use anything else and you run the risk of damaging your head), and about 15ft of soft braided nylon rope (about $5 @ home depot).
First get the cams off, then remove only the shim of the valve you are working on.(this way, you don't need to remember where each of the 24 go)
Next, turn the crank until the piston is at or near the bottom of the cylinder.
This is where the rope comes in.
Take the rope and get most of it inside the cylinder (at least 10ft)
Next, turn the crank until the rope is compressed in the cylinder.
This way the valve stems don't droop into the cylinder when removing/installing the seals.
Use the valve tool to pop the locking caps off of the valve springs (double bag them, they tend to get lost), next,
use the pliers to remove the seal from the stems (it may slip at first, after all, they are covered in oil). BE CAREFUL: Make sure when you pull on the seals, that you pull at the same angle that the stem is on, otherwise you'll have to re-smooth (with no less than 2000 grit paper) the cam journals, like I had to on one of mine.
Once you finish removing the old seal, pop the new one on, push it down with the front end of the pliers, install the locking cap and spring back on the stem's end, and pop the shim back in (that's it!:icon_bigg )
Use the valve tool on the next 3 valves the lather, rinse, repeat on all the other cylinders.
It may sound like a lot of work, but here's about how the time breaks down:
1st hour= taking off the Intake, cam gears, cover plate, and camshafts
2nd hour= learning how to use the valve tool, learning how to use the pliers with finesse AND strength, finishing the first valve.::w00t::
3rd hour= all 23 of the other valves:biglaugh:
4th hour= putting everything back in it's place
hope that helps!
First get the cams off, then remove only the shim of the valve you are working on.(this way, you don't need to remember where each of the 24 go)
Next, turn the crank until the piston is at or near the bottom of the cylinder.
This is where the rope comes in.
Take the rope and get most of it inside the cylinder (at least 10ft)
Next, turn the crank until the rope is compressed in the cylinder.
This way the valve stems don't droop into the cylinder when removing/installing the seals.
Use the valve tool to pop the locking caps off of the valve springs (double bag them, they tend to get lost), next,
use the pliers to remove the seal from the stems (it may slip at first, after all, they are covered in oil). BE CAREFUL: Make sure when you pull on the seals, that you pull at the same angle that the stem is on, otherwise you'll have to re-smooth (with no less than 2000 grit paper) the cam journals, like I had to on one of mine.
Once you finish removing the old seal, pop the new one on, push it down with the front end of the pliers, install the locking cap and spring back on the stem's end, and pop the shim back in (that's it!:icon_bigg )
Use the valve tool on the next 3 valves the lather, rinse, repeat on all the other cylinders.
It may sound like a lot of work, but here's about how the time breaks down:
1st hour= taking off the Intake, cam gears, cover plate, and camshafts
2nd hour= learning how to use the valve tool, learning how to use the pliers with finesse AND strength, finishing the first valve.::w00t::
3rd hour= all 23 of the other valves:biglaugh:
4th hour= putting everything back in it's place
hope that helps!
Supramacist: Didnt you have a valve job done when your head was at the shop? If so, they SHOULD have put new valve seals in. I'd check it before I took it apart. If not, well, the method mentioned by Jervis McStabby(lol, I love that name, snicker every time I see it) will work quite well for you.
Original Poster: My advice to you is to pull the head, get a valve job done, clean EVERYTHING(best degreaser I've found is "Solvs-it." It's a commercial degreaser for resturants, costs $10 a gal., and works better than anything I've tried to date), install all new gaskets, cam and crank seals, and the rest of the stuff I mentioned earlier, and torque the head bolts to 70+ ft. lbs.
Most Supra owners wind up doing this sooner or later anyway... might as well get it outta the way.
Original Poster: My advice to you is to pull the head, get a valve job done, clean EVERYTHING(best degreaser I've found is "Solvs-it." It's a commercial degreaser for resturants, costs $10 a gal., and works better than anything I've tried to date), install all new gaskets, cam and crank seals, and the rest of the stuff I mentioned earlier, and torque the head bolts to 70+ ft. lbs.
Most Supra owners wind up doing this sooner or later anyway... might as well get it outta the way.
i say try to do it your self....use the TSRM.
You'll save money in the long run.
Shops will be pretty pricey and trust me you don't wanna keep going back to them when something breaks youll save your save A LOT of money.
You'll save money in the long run.
Shops will be pretty pricey and trust me you don't wanna keep going back to them when something breaks youll save your save A LOT of money.