Nipping it in the bud the RIGHT WAY

[lithium14]

Ok I did (and am still trying to find more info) my research and I just want to confirm what I have found.

Situation:

Car is down right now awaiting new IC due to several leaks on stock system. During browsing I came across a few BHG threads and have concluded that my Supra is exhibiting signs of head gasket leakage:
1- Coolant spillage out of overflow when engine is revved while car is cold.
2- Nasty smelling brown coolant with gunky residue in overflow tank despite several flushes (note: no oil in coolant at all, this I am sure of)
3- Gurgling noise on start-up (could also just be air in the coolant passages)

Additional notes: The engine is a swapped in JDM 7M-GTE. I have no idea what the situation with the headgasket is. I have driven it approximately 7-8k miles since the swap with various issues (refer to build thread)

After the swap, the mechanic used green coolant, which I replaced with Toyo Red about 1.5k miles later. However I can not get the coolant to flush clean, there is always brown sludge that settles and congeals in chocolate-likeness


Actions to be taken:

Now these may not be SURE 100% signs of BHG, but they are certainly not normal, so I have decided that I am going to nip the problem in the bud to be safe. I want to replace my headgasket with an oem one and replace the bolts with ARP bolts and torque it down properly. Here is my understanding of the process, please advise if I am missing something:

note: I am keeping this engine stock and want to keep it running safely until I can afford a 2JZ-GTE swap evil2, so stock oem gasket and ARP bolts should be plenty

Remove head:
----drain coolant
1- as per tsrm, remove exhaust, intake mainfolds, turbo, etc etc
2- clean head
3- chase block threads
4- check block, head, intake and exhaust manifolds for warpage
5- apply oem HG with fipg at locations specified by tsrm
6- replace head and bolt down per tsrm with ARP bolts to 75 ft-lbs
7- replace all the peripherals as per tsrm
----add new coolant

enjoy?

And if I read correctly this is a process that, with proper preparation, shouldn't take 2 guys more than a couple days to perform. And to double check, the engine doesn't NEED to be pulled to do this, correct?

Parts required for prep:
OEM headgasket (driftmotion ~$90)
ARP bolts (buddy of mine)
New Coolant
Tools to include: 12mm x 1.25 thread tap (driftmotion $8)

Any feedback is appreciated, I've read so many threads on this subject I got an information overflow so I decided to put it all into one thread concisely. Thanks!!!

 

[Apollonius]

Follow ARP suggested torque values for the bolts, there is a sheet of paper in the box. If you dont have the sheet send them an email. Its diffrent torque values depending on if ur using ARPs lubricant or not.

 

[lithium14]

Will def. keep that in mind, thanks!!! I might need to email them since I might be getting the bolts second hand

 

[radiod]

Get rid of the oil and filter that you have in there right now too. If you've got oil getting in to your coolant then you've likely got coolant in your oil. If you're not going to be tearing in to it I'd be crossing fingers and praying that coolant hasn't etched your bearings, you'll be hearing her knocking shortly if they have been.

You'll also want intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. I'd recommend changing your injector o-rings if they're coming out, they're not very happy sealing back up again sometimes on reassembly and it's easiest to do it now. Valve cover gaskets and the grommets for the valve cover screws/bolts (get some bolts if they haven't been replaced yet) aren't a bad idea either. I personally did everything on the top end while it was off, but those are the ones that come to mind that are the most likely to give you problems after reassembling.

While it's off replace the 90 degree coolant line at the back of the head. They're prone to blowing and a PITA to do later. Like the gaskets, I did as many coolant lines as I could just for peace of mind.

I know you're not wanting to sink tons of money in to it, but insurance with the gaskets/coolant lines mentioned being replaced isn't terribly bad.

 

[Compton74]

you really dont need to use fipg on the head, just make sure you use copper gasket sealer, cover the gasket completely on both sides. You dont have to remove the turbo, makes things alot easier to just remove the manifold and pull the head away from it. Believe me it used to take me 45 minutes to do a turbo now i can do it in around 10 because i had to do it so much lol. And just as radiod said the 90 degree coolant line on the passenger side of the car, there is also that same exact hose up front that you might as well change to. Also i like to throw a new thermostat in, that way i know everything is new and fresh. Did you get all the green coolant out when you put the toyota red in, or was there some still left in the block?

 

[lithium14]

Wow thanks for the feedback guys!!

@Radiod: I'm positive there's no oil in my coolant at all. That's one of the things I was very sure to check. Oil is lighter than water right? so it'll float. In that case, there is no oil in my coolant, no milkshake!!! As for the manifolds, I don't think we are actually pulling the exhaust manifold off, but we are removing the intake side, so I have those gaskets OTW. I also don't think we are actually disassembling the head, just removing it... now if this is totally wrong let me know. I don't want to get that complex with it, knowing myself, if I let myself get that carried away next thing you know I'm gonna have the engine completely taken apart and everything replaced >_<. The coolant lines I think I can do, gonna have to do some searching for the right stuff.

@Compton74: This copper gasket sealant, is there a specific brand (permetex I assume) and or type (packaging wise). And TBH I haven't read anything on coating the entire head gasket with sealant, it's definitely not in the TSRM. As for the coolant, yes I did get all the green out. I flushed it twice with cleaner, was not satisfied, and proceeded to flush another 5 or 6 times (by flush I mean fill with water and cleaner and drive around). I was told the nasty brown stuff is most likely a mixture of my corroded old radiator plus the damage of running green coolant through it. I does smell a little like rust when I inspect the chunks that was out of reservoir. I hate to imagine the build up that is actually in my system. I also want to throw in another note here, I haven't experienced any overheating at all in the slightest fashion, unless my temperature reader is completely shot.

Again thanks for the tips guys!!! gotta love this community, assuring the job is done right the first time =D

 

[Compton74]

The only gasket your not supposed to coppercoat are metal headgaskets, as for type i always use this kind http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80697-Copper-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBNUDQ it works like a charm just coat both sides, set it on the retainers in the block, put the head on and be on your merry way, just kind of a extra measure of caution on it sealing. And i do believe the person who told you about the rust and ish is right. Somebody else chime in and correct me if im wrong but mixing the Toyota red, with any amount of green coolant makes a type of acid, but i believe most of the stuff your seeing is just the gunk in the lines and at the bottom of the radiator. And i wouldnt be to horribly worried about a head gasket if you have no temperature issues. And does your gauge work at all? If not theres a few sensors on the thermostat housing, make sure they are all plugged in.

 

[radiod]

I guess you could take the intake manifold off without pulling the injectors/fuel rail off, but you'll need to disconnect the fuel feed/return lines and it 3 bolts to get the injectors & rail off beyond that. Heck you could soak the tips of the injectors in some injector cleaner while you're doing the work too if you want.

 

[Compton74]

I guess you could take the intake manifold off without pulling the injectors/fuel rail off, but you'll need to disconnect the fuel feed/return lines and it 3 bolts to get the injectors & rail off beyond that. Heck you could soak the tips of the injectors in some injector cleaner while you're doing the work too if you want.

second that

 

[lithium14]

AHH LoL great tips!!! but remember!! I'm trying to keep it simple here!!! hehehe LoL I will def look into the injector cleaner.. and I I've got some copper sealant otw... gotta love amazon free 2-day shipping yumyum

---------- Post added at 06:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:35 PM ----------

OH yeah I'm pretty sure the temp gauge is working... i mean the needle moves!! LoL and the temp it indicates is always sensible... takes about 2-5 min of driving to warm up depending on ambient temp.

---------- Post added at 06:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 PM ----------

hmm well that 2-5 min estimate was just a throw out tbh I can't remember the time exaclty I just know by the tim ei get from my house to where the speed limit is above 30, the car is DEFINITELY warmed up LoL

 

[Poodles]

Yes, you should use FIPG on the areas indicated in the TSRM. No, you don't have to use copper spray on the headgasket. Green and Red coolant won't cause issues together like some others can.

As you're pushing coolant out, you're uncovering the temp sensors and creating hotspots in the head as well. Get the head checked or you'll be doing this headgasket all over again shortly...

 

[lithium14]

Oooo... what should I be checking for on the head??? Are you saying that by flushing, I am creating spots where the buildup is different in thickness thereby creating spots where the coolant can't cool as well as other spots? so I should try to clean out the coolant passages in the head as much as possible... but what about the block?... I'm going to be replacing as many coolant hoses as possible, so...

 

[S.A. supra]

I think he means check the head and see how bad its warped. And what did I tell you about the copper spray.

---------- Post added at 11:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 PM ----------

Lol

 

[lithium14]

yeah idk... its pretty even on the spray or don't spray... the only thing I'm sure of is that you DO NOT spray metal headgaskets... but nobody said it's BAD to spray an oem HG...

 

[S.A. supra]

Yeah, that's why I didn't tell you one way or the other.

 

[Poodles]

No spray from the factory

But yes, have the head checked for hardness and warpage. If you're pushing coolant out the overflow when you rev at idle you've probably run the head dry several times

 

[lithium14]

sounds good... man I really hope it's not that bad >_<. I'm gonna look into what it takes to lap block myself... i hear it's one helluva pita

 

[radiod]

No spray from the factory

But yes, have the head checked for hardness and warpage. If you're pushing coolant out the overflow when you rev at idle you've probably run the head dry several times

Did I make that obvious enough? Lol....

Too many people don't get the hardness checked and you end up with it cracking on you very quickly. Ask me how I know... :nono:

 

[Poodles]

Or all the tapped holes decide to strip out...

Live and learn (and then park the car for a few years in frustration, sigh...)

 

[lithium14]

AHH!!! you guys are giving me nightmares!!!! cease!!!! LoL >_< I really hope it's not that bad...