New to the Supra's And a few questions

veedubin

Official SM Decals
Ok, first off i am not new to cars (so not a retard technician for a living, mechanic for a hobby) Second, I am a long time Euro car nut. All cars till now were VW's all old school 85-92 I have had about 12 of them most parts cars. I was in process of a 2.0t swap into my 91 jetta, and it got hit while pulling it out of the shop, so it's shot. Anyways point is instead of wasting more of my time to find another shell, I found a supra for sale.
These are all my findings from the go over i had with it sunday
Specs:
87 Turbo Hard top
5sp 7M-GTE
Black paint( Very faded) Primer Hood and red front valance (were the emblem is)
Blue cloth interior (very faded as well) center armrest is chunked out at the front of it.
After market HU is just laying in the gaping hole in the dash. 6X9 boxes in hatch.
tires have about 1/4tread all the way around.
To the motor specs
For an 87 it is clean (not steamed and detailed clean, just normally clean) turbo is clean to. pulled oil cap, no milk no smells
pulled Dipstick, little blacker than i like but hey easy fix, no Anti Freeze or smells here either.
P/S fluid a little low, no visible leakes though
brake fluid decent, should be changed
Valve cover gasket leaks at the back of motor
Upon start up car idles perfectley. Takes about 2-3 seconds to start (it was very very cold though so that prolly had something to do with it)
Exhaust smells like exhaust not rich, not lean, not sweet or gassy, just normal. only smoke was due to very cold weather.
During engine running check over:
checked throttle response at TB.... red flag! cracked the trottle open real quick and she stumbled ( now keep in mind I did not let it warm up at all, it was almost out of gas)
Did it agian with the gas pedal same thing I have seen a TSB on a CTS sensor revision with computer change ?? any more info
didn;t hear any knocking from the motor couldn't test drive (out of inspection and bad plates) I forgot to bring my dealer tag, my bad.

Popped the hatch key was very very very hard to turn! All in good order, lower front air dam laying in there! all original tools there good spare never used not dry rotted. i pulled the spare out, and there was some rust stains in the well, and the rubber plugs were removed . hatch seal is in good shape
no rust on rear arches. just to good to be true type car what else should i be looking at?????? also what would be a good offer for this.


oh, last question..................what is BPU that i see around here???
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
Staff member
Aug 26, 2005
14,971
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Roll Tide
Welcome Mr. Vdub

BPU = basic performance upgrades

What you offer is entirely up to you. I would let them tell me how much they want and then go from there. Good luck.
 

whenmunkysfly

scratch that...going 2jz
Jun 26, 2006
746
0
0
United States
veedubin said:
Ok, first off i am not new to cars (so not a retard technician for a living, mechanic for a hobby) Second, I am a long time Euro car nut. All cars till now were VW's all old school 85-92 I have had about 12 of them most parts cars. I was in process of a 2.0t swap into my 91 jetta, and it got hit while pulling it out of the shop, so it's shot. Anyways point is instead of wasting more of my time to find another shell, I found a supra for sale.
These are all my findings from the go over i had with it sunday
Specs:
87 Turbo Hard top
5sp 7M-GTE
Black paint( Very faded) Primer Hood and red front valance (were the emblem is)
Blue cloth interior (very faded as well) center armrest is chunked out at the front of it.
After market HU is just laying in the gaping hole in the dash. 6X9 boxes in hatch.
tires have about 1/4tread all the way around.
To the motor specs
For an 87 it is clean (not steamed and detailed clean, just normally clean) turbo is clean to. pulled oil cap, no milk no smells
pulled Dipstick, little blacker than i like but hey easy fix, no Anti Freeze or smells here either.
P/S fluid a little low, no visible leakes though
brake fluid decent, should be changed
Valve cover gasket leaks at the back of motor
Upon start up car idles perfectley. Takes about 2-3 seconds to start (it was very very cold though so that prolly had something to do with it)
Exhaust smells like exhaust not rich, not lean, not sweet or gassy, just normal. only smoke was due to very cold weather.
During engine running check over:
checked throttle response at TB.... red flag! cracked the trottle open real quick and she stumbled ( now keep in mind I did not let it warm up at all, it was almost out of gas)
Did it agian with the gas pedal same thing I have seen a TSB on a CTS sensor revision with computer change ?? any more info
didn;t hear any knocking from the motor couldn't test drive (out of inspection and bad plates) I forgot to bring my dealer tag, my bad.

Popped the hatch key was very very very hard to turn! All in good order, lower front air dam laying in there! all original tools there good spare never used not dry rotted. i pulled the spare out, and there was some rust stains in the well, and the rubber plugs were removed . hatch seal is in good shape
no rust on rear arches. just to good to be true type car what else should i be looking at?????? also what would be a good offer for this.


oh, last question..................what is BPU that i see around here???

first of all welcome I also love the 86-92 vdubs and own a golf and two corrados.

second you will love the car. if you get on the vortex you will deff like the people around here more everyone is very nice here unlike alot of the vw people can be real dicks(I really wish it wasn't that way because I love the cars)

third the starting was normal as far as I know. I just rebuilt my ewngine with aftermarket internals and the works. my car starts the same way when cold.

offer what you feel is right. very clean and well miantained cars can go for as much as $7k and you can find extreme fixers that have bhg and rod knock for $500. so just find something in between there that you feel the car fits into.

edit: oh and as metioned above bpu means basic performance ugrades like exhaust, air filter, down pipe, ect. quick bolt on parts.

Edit2: keep in mind that a $7k car would be a 91-92 possably with a 1jz swap
 
Last edited:

1988SupraDreams

New Member
Mar 10, 2006
509
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San Jose, CA
I'd offer 1.2k for it. But if I was you I'd put some gas in it, drive it, and get it up to operating temperature first before buying it. And ask the owner about the head gakset, if they don't know what you're talking about that could be a big problem. People who don't know the proper methods of maintaining a 7M tend to blow them. Hate to reinterate this, but check that headgasket! Also, what's the mileage, and how bad is the wire harness under the dash hacked up?
 

mk3ftMFw

Mini Toon Burnout!! FTW!!
Jan 24, 2007
95
0
0
Cincy
take it from me... if he isnt sure what the head bolts were torqued at start to worry. To put the icing on the cake ask him if a MHG was put in.
 

veedubin

Official SM Decals
Weeeellllllll, I bought it! Got my very first supra! 87 Turbo 5 spd hard top. only 90k miles!! Minor boost leak( no biggie) all checked out well. Till I got home. I had about 1.5hrs from were it was to my house. Watching temp gauge whole way. Never went above half! Got home started pulling into my drive way from the alley, and i locked the brakes up :( not enough time to recover (It is extremely ICY here!!!! so yea no damage at all just kinda got stuck in a snow bank going down a hill. During the struggle to get it out of the bank and off the ice, the head gasket KABLOW!!!!!!!! so yea F me. temp gauge spiked jug was bubbling, the whole nine. So i am going to put a new gasket in it this weekend. I forgot to take pics of it when I bought It, but i will get them up tomorrow for ya guys. Any one know were to get new head set and bolts/studs for cheap?????
 

veedubin

Official SM Decals
Now, I am new to the boosted world, but i was sure that a MHG would raise compression. And higher compression + boost = blown motor am i wrong?? Also any good sites to get these products from cheaply?? And by tomorrow afternoon/ sat am ??? i want to drive this thing!!!! it was great on the drive home, I left my chase car way behind me. 3rd gear pulls really hard in this thing.
:) :) :)
 

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
6,359
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36
Hot and Humid, KY
Do not drive the car until you get the engine out and replace the gasket with a MHG (hopefully). I'd drain the oil becuase there's probably coolant in it that can be very corrosive to bearings. You're probably going to have to put new bearings in it at the least when you do the HG to prevent rod knock right after you complete the head gasket. There's no telling how long it's had a BHG and I'd say the coolant in the oil has done it's work already.

I'm guessing that it did indeed have the BHG before you bought it. It's so cold out now that it's harder to overheat the engine with a BHG than when it's warmer.

Also, if you go with a MHG, the HKS Stopper is considered by most to be the best head gasket for the supra. ARP studs are a must, torque them to 81 ft/lbs. using ARP moly lube ;). Get a TSRM Toyota Service Repair Manual), it's going to be your new bible ;). The MHG's each have different RA (Roughness Average) specs that MUST be met on the head AND block or they will not seal correctly and you will BHG shortly again. You should be ok with just about any MHG if you have a RA of 15 or less on the head and block.

When you machine the block, make sure to leave on the rear timing plate when taking off material on the block, if you don't that creates a high spot on the block and the gasket will not seal.

Any other advice ppl want to add to this?
 

xanatos

New Member
Jan 18, 2007
63
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0
Norcross, GA
Personally, I went into the 90's with my studs with no problem. Think I torqued mine down actually to around 94 and of course I did it in increments so as to prevent warping. Granted, I didn't have the time, nor did I know of a good machine shop in the area at the time and as such did not have the block or the head milled. Now before I get jumped on by everyone, I know that I really should have with an MHG, but as I'm running extremely low boost and it was really more of an emergency situation with plans on eventually rebuilding the head and getting everything lapped correctly as needed, it was purely a stop-gap measure. I've actually laid the hammer down pretty hard in the last 6-7 months since I did it and have not had any problems whatsoever.

Now, do I plan on keeping it this way? Hells no. But when I get my second car up and running and I begin rebuilding my shell that I just agreed to purchase, then I'll do the engine right and rebuild a lot, if not all of it the way it should be.

That being said, definately go with the ARP's and the HKS. I did and with the high torque on the bolts, it has not had problem one. HKS and ARP FTW!
 

foreverpsycotic

Back in the game!
Jul 16, 2006
3,171
12
38
38
ATL
so im not the only one who came from VWs to supras, maybe its the clean styling.....

good luck with your supra's bhg repair. i would get the head and block lapped when doing the MHG, and use some ARPS and get new bearings put in.