New engine break-in method

bluezone

New Member
Jul 15, 2008
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similar to what i did but this site post you referance didn't sell me. it was a aircraft engine supplier with similar method of break-in. came with a warning that the pilot was taking own life in hand if they did not break-in under load to seal the rings. you would have to seach under break-in methods out side this site to find it.
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
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Aug 26, 2005
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Most of the guys on here agree with the method posted above. That's how I broke mine in and it's working great so far. I still didn't beat the shit out of it for a couple hundred miles, but I wouldn't exactly say that I babied it either. Goood luck.
 

MK3.0dudeman

brian L.
Mar 12, 2007
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cool thats real good to know.I still am doing research on breaking in my motor for when I'm done with my rebuild so I'll think about this one but still really good to know.
 

Tanya

Supramania Contributor
Aug 15, 2005
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We beat the fuck out of my 6MGE, did the high rpm load runs for like 20 minutes and then proceeded to drive it like we were competing in NASCAR. The engine has never been "babied" and shows 210psi across the board at roughly 7,500 miles
 

mirage83

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Mar 21, 2008
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^^^^^ Yeah, what he said. I've got a reman that'll be ready to run shortly for the first time and was trying to decide which method to use to break it in. I hadn't heard many people talk about this method so I thought I would see who had any practical experience with it.

And thanks for the link and additional background on this Jdub. It's appreciated, as I missed that link in my search.
 

mirage83

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Mar 21, 2008
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jdub;1175269 said:

From the way several of your posts were written (from both threads) it reads like they were intended for MT cars. Any recommendations on accomplishing this in an automatic? Manually shift from L1 through Drive letting the rpms get to 4k before shifting, or let the transmission handle the shifts itself?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to make sure I get this right the first time.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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I have an auto too and manually shift...don't over rev the tranny. The important think is to keep the RPM up and allow the engine to pull vacuum during the coast down. You can leave the tranny in "D" for the coast.
 

mirage83

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Mar 21, 2008
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jdub;1175520 said:
I have an auto too and manually shift...don't over rev the tranny. The important think is to keep the RPM up and allow the engine to pull vacuum during the coast down. You can leave the tranny in "D" for the coast.

Sounds like a winner. Thanks for help.
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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Won't leaving it in drive allow the tranny to coast instead of engine brake like you're wanting?

Also keep in mind you're not "beating" on the engine, you still have to do it gradually and pay attention to what you're doing as you're also heat cycling the components.
 

jdub

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You know, you are right...the TC will unlock in "D" for a coast. What I really meant to say was use "2nd"...downshift under 50-60 MPH.
(it's been so long, my CRS kicked in...everytime I learn something new, something has to go ;))
 

mirage83

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Mar 21, 2008
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Also keep in mind you're not "beating" on the engine, you still have to do it gradually and pay attention to what you're doing as you're also heat cycling the components.

Thanks, I'll definately be keeping that in mind.

What I really meant to say was use "2nd"...downshift under 50-60 MPH.

That's what I figured you meant. Cool breeze. I'll let everyone know how it turns out and if anything nasty turns up.
 

grimreaper

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Jul 2, 2008
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what about boost? part throttle boost ok? or keep out of it completely when getting on it hard( could be difficult).
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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You're going to end up boosting to load the engine properly, but I would set the boost to the lowest setting you can...