Needed help with 7M-GE (Can't get the car runnin')

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Hello everyone!

I am desperate, trying to run my car for a half of year. The car throws code 11, but i checked grounds and so on. The car starts, idles for 5-15 mins, then, after it's working in normal temperature, dies. The "Economy" light is ALWAYS Orange.
Yesterday i tried to swap the tps(Crown's engine have absolutely similar for a traction control) I know i shouldn't mess with it, so now car starts, idles on 1000 rpm for a couple of secs and slowly lowers the rpms for about 10 seconds,dies... The problems i wrote above were before i did this, i'll calibrate the tps later. and distributor. The wiring of engine is fine, but i have some questions about that:
1) there is a white thick wire hanging around my right foot (The car was made for Gulf corporation counsil, so it is left hand) it has constant + voltage.
2) there is a thick blue wire with orange stripe which goes from ecu to nothing,just hanging.
3) there is a large yellow wire cut(it goes from the fuse box near my left foot, where it is cut)
4) my afm has 7 pins and the wiring for it has 6 wires, but i think it's normal...

I checked a ton of posts what wires do I need to get the car going, but all of them seems fine and connected. The car was standing for a year without a motor, so i think i should clear all the contacts...

History:
I bought a 1992(Don't know for sure, cuz the documents says it's 1993) Mk3 from a couple of "russian streetracer enthusiasts" <- And that is why i'm so worried about.
The car didn't had an engine... but it was 7m-ge(Checked VIN). Bought JDM 7M-GE from a Crown.
So what do i have for now:
7M-GE from a Crown, Supra's ECU(Don't know for sure,but looks fine), Supra's AFM, Supra's Wiring, New oil, Used fuel pump(My was taken from a lada))) ), New fuel filter, New air filter.

The engine made 87000km so it shouln't be compression.
Ah, the car throws code 11 only when i cranked it, or idled, then the voltage on ecu messes up. (I'm putting the "-" from the Battery every time i'm going home.)

As it is JDM engine it dont have an EGR, but the hole in the head is open, seems no vacuum though. but I tried to install it'so the little vacuum lines are in their place.
And... It doesn't have an exhaust, only the thingie we call "Pants" - first part that goes from exhaust manifold and ends near the gearbox - New also.

I'll become mental soon...:aigo:Depression. It's a BIG mess, not a car, but I Love It... Please, help with some advice, i'll apreciate it...MUCH!

---------- Post added at 09:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 PM ----------

Forgot to mention:
The ECU is for A/T though i have a W58, but it have somekinda "Mod" for a neutral start switch.
There are infinity of loosen connectors In the car(the dash dont have any of the switches) and there are some connectors under the hood, near the fuse box that aren't connected, but there are no place foe them, such as TEMS, which I don't have.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Could be, but i think it's not drilled at all, it has no vacuum. But could be those enumerous ammount of vacuum tubes... I'll shut that hole for sure, thanks)

---------- Post added at 01:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17 AM ----------

And... My AFM's virginity was also broken, cuz the plastic plate was just holdins on some silicone seal...
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
12,568
1
0
Fullerton,CA
Ecu shouldnt be a problem unless its bad.

What grounds have you checked? The ones on the intake manifold?

There is no blue with orange stripe wire coming from the ecu. Blue with red tho.

Pics of said wires would help.

For the egr there is a block of plate behind the head. Needs to be removed and the egr cooler needs to be installed. Then the egr valve can be installed to the side of the head and intake manifold. Also need the egr vsv and all vac lines routed correctly.

vac leak is not going to cause the stalling. Does the isc valve make a clicking noise when the engine is turned off?

The code 11 will hide all other codes until it is fixed.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Thanks guys!) I dont have an EGR Valve, and buying one will cost extra, so, i'll block it off and vacuum lines too(as seen in many posts about that)
I might be mistaking, it goes to 2nd computer called "Skid control", sorry for disinformation. I'll post pics as soon as possible(The car is in garage around 40 km from moscow, and i don't have another car so i dont know for sure when i'll go there)
ISC...Guess not. I haven't heard clicking, just two clicks of some relay after the key is turned to "ON"

---------- Post added at 12:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 PM ----------

I cleared the contacts from intake to body, so i guess that shouldn't be a problem...
 

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
12,568
1
0
Fullerton,CA
The contacts? You mean ground? Put it back on the intake.

The blue with orange wire from skid control ecu Goes to both the warning light in the cluster and to the abs actuator.

A bad isc would cause stalling but i would fix the code 11 first.
 

myastzo

Hobo restorer
Jun 6, 2011
59
0
0
35
Moscow
Hi guys!!! It seems like part of the problem is solved!) I swapped 2 resistors with ones 100% working (Efi and smth else). Nothing changed. Then I disassembled the ignition coil, cleared it's ground and all stuff inside and the car now starts, works, and even starts when hot... Cant try to run it, tire is damaged. At least somethin' Ah! And closed all holes in the intake mani(There were couple of problems) but I still need block off plate that on the intake side.