Need some opinions on freshly rebuilt 7M running issues.

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
Hi community, here is the setup as of now:

Block:
JE pistons
Eagle rods
teflon crank scraper
new oil squirters
driftmotion upgraded oil pump
AN mandrel bent oil supply tube
ATI crank pulley

Head:
STOCK
EGR delete
Cometic MHG
Coolant tubes for TB and ISCV bypass
NGK BCPR7E7-11 gapped .030

Turbo:
57 trim with 10 degree clip on exhaust

Peripherals:
2.5in hardpipes
spearco replica IC
Synapse Synchronic BOV (unrecirculated, has anti stall kit installed)
Stock AFM housing with stock AFM


Fuel:
STOCK
J-pipe delete
Charcoal Canister delete (has vented gas cap)

Electronics:
Stock ECU
AEM UEGO
AEM Truboost (unprogrammed)
AEM trans temp

Transmission:
Stock A340E
3200 stall torque converter
Upgraded valve body from Devin

That's all I can think of for now, and now the problem:

Initially during the first drive, the car was hesitating big time with any application of throttle. It felt like really small fuel cuts when I applied the throttle to accelerate. So the next day, I swapped out my AFM for another unit off my Lexus SC. It removed the crazy fuel cut like issues on acceleration and the car was smoother overall, however during cruising around speeds of 60+ if I maintained throttle, at some point the car would begin to sputter/hesitate and AFRs would spike rich (10) at that point I could let off just a tad bit and it would be ok, but if I gave it more gas, the car would pull but the engine revs sounded like they were coming in waves, like a thrumming sound. The engine also refused to go high rpms and had trouble getting to 5k via throttle. If I downshifted from a high gear at speeds, it would rev to 5k (am doing this a lot to make the engine see lots of vacuum for break in). I came home and found CEL code 11, which was fixed my me cleaning/sanding the ground point on the intake runners.

Today I regapped my spark plugs from the suggested .025 to .030. This removed all the low speed breaking up, engine was fine revving to any rpm during load (at idle it was perfect from the get go!!). However, at cruising speeds, the sputter was still there, however I felt it was much more specific and I was able to induce it on command. Once I reached a very specific throttle point, I would lessen pressure just a hair and induce the sputter, and again if I applied more throttle or less, it was fine. AFRs at cruising was 11-12 so pretty rich, and when the car sputtered, it would spike to 10. NO CEL codes.

I came back and was suggested that I disconnect my TPS and see if that changed anything, which it did NOT. I am not sure if that means my TPS is faulty or not, but I took it off to test resistances and it passed as per the tsrm. Again, when I disconnected my TPS, the car ran exactly the same. Only difference was my idle jumped from 650rpm to 1000rpm and I got a CEL code 51, which reconnecting the TPS cleared out.

I haven't driven her since, so the specs I listed above are the latest. I want to make it clear that I am not getting any CEL codes. AFRs are spiking rich, cruising is still rich 12-13 range.

What do you guys think my problem could be?
I thought it might be a fuel issue, I had a quarter tank sitting there for a year and a half. We mixed it with 5 gallons of Shell 93 octane and started the car, did all the priming and timing etc, and then on the first drive filled it up the rest of the way with Chevron Premium. This morning the gauge showed close to empty, so I filled it with another 12 gallons of Chevron premium, so any bad gas in there should be gone by now.

If it is my TPS, I have no way of trying a different one as I am the only running turbo 7M in Austin to my knowledge. Again, the TPS passed resistance inspection as per tsrm.

I had wondered if perhaps the 57 trim and all that hardpipes was just too much air for the stock afm/fuel set up to handle, but that doesn't make sense.

My roommate suggested that the weird throttle response might be related to the higher stall interacting with the stock ECU, as in it's unsure whether to shift or not at certain throttle points. However this does not explain the rich condition.

I am out of ideas, so please, feel free to comment and suggest ideas. Thanks guys!!!
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
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Alberta
www.gyoba.com
Any time I hear of a 7M-GTE running rich, I immediately want to check for boost leaks. I don't think that it's TPS.

Does your Truboost allow you to monitor injector duty cycle? (My Apexi AVC-R does, so I thought I'd ask.) It's a good thing to be able to monitor, particularly when diagnosing FCO possibilities.
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
Hmm. I just went through and installed a couple new couplers and clamps and made sure everything was good to go, so should not be any boost leak unless my brand new BOV is leaking...

No the Truboost doesn't allow that, but I do have an Apex'i AFC Neo waiting to be installed. Was gonna wait until I installed my 550s and Lexus AFM to go with them. Electronics frighten me TBH lol. But yes, I do need to look into getting the neo installed.

Should be going on a drive later so I'll report back on how she is running now.
 

suprajztwenty

Member
Nov 5, 2009
369
0
16
corinth tx
what you were describing seems similar to what mine was doing when i had a bad o2 sensor...also, it never threw a code. when i unplugged it and ran without it it improved a lot. worth a try since you can keep an eye on it with the wideband.

edit: after watching the vid i think you might have spark issues...especially since the smaller gap improved the matter. i think you got a bad batch of coils/wiring. i was originally going to say fuel but because afr's are rich. thats where id go anyways.
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
Yeah I drove around with the O2 unplugged, made no change at all.

Actually, upping the gap from .025 to .030 improved it. My coils passed the resistance test as per tsrm, and my wires are good for sure. One of my buddies is saying fuel as well, maybe clogged pump or filter. I can't really do anything about that until I use up this close to full tank that I have.

What IS Vf? lol
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
no problem. And trust me, we've been discussing and trying things to no end on my car. Anyways, my AFM took a dump in stop and go traffic today and threw code 31. AFRs all over the map jumping from lean to rich to lean to rich. I just got home and noticed that all my lights are dimmer than usual and when I rev the engine they brighten up. Which is odd because I have the driftmotion upgraded alternator and a diehard platinum battery.
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
Hmm... no. Someone told me what I was experiencing is normal, but I suppose it could be bad if I am indeed overcharging my system. Details on said amp clamp?

Also, took the AFM sensor off my SC400 and put in on the Supra and vice versa. SC400 won't even idle properly, and the Supra is back to where we were before the AFM died. I can't help but wonder if intake/ambient temps around the AFM sensor itself being too high will actually fry the sensor.

This week I will be getting a TPS that came off a working MK3 7M, and I will drive it more to try and get my tank as close to empty as possible. I will also change my fuel filter to eliminate that being an issue. I want to run some injector cleaner through my system, but it is still too soon in the break in process to risk that.

Feel free to pop over to my build thread for updates on everything that I'm doing. And again, thanks for everyone that shares input, it is all greatly appreciated.
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,815
13
38
Thousand Oaks, CA
How could your lights be dim if you are overcharging the system? Stick a voltmeter on the battery and see if you have 13.8 to 14.1 volts with the engine at fast idle.
 

lithium14

Member
Jan 7, 2011
995
0
16
Austin
Whoa been awhile. Battery voltage is fine. Since then what I have done:

Replaced fuel pump with AEM 320 lph unit, replaced fuel filter
Replaced TPS with newer model from a MK3 supra (not cressida like mine, though it shouldn't make a difference) and adjusted all the throttle body stuff as per TSRM

Changes from the above: none.

As of today, I am able to deduce some more specifics as to what's going on. Any load on the engine followed immediately by partial throttle leads to AFRs spiking to 10 and sputtering. At speeds over 70mph, an slight increase in throttle followed by partial throttle leads to the same issue. Someone suggested that my stock FPR is going bad, and is probably getting stuck open. So my next step is to get the fittings to install my Aeromotive FPR and install/set it up.
 

suprajztwenty

Member
Nov 5, 2009
369
0
16
corinth tx
again, it sounds similar to what mine was doing with a bad o2 sensor and wiring, and my problem didnt throw a code either...try unplugging it atleast.

did you test compression yet?