Need help!

seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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Nov 6, 2008
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So.... I have an issue.... While I was replacing my battery cables I didn't see that the cables got twisted up in the wire loom I had in place.... Needless to say I ended up connecting the cables incorrectly (I know I know I feel dumb about it already) but it was only for like 2 seconds or so (Enough time to blow off the chassis ground. So the issues I have is that my AF ratio is pretty jacked up now.... Normal driving I get 13.9-14.2 now i'm getting 16.8-17.2.... under boost 12.3 now it's 13.9 (At 5 psi).

She runs pretty rough at first start up but gets smooth after it warms up and I am getting ZERO codes. I had an issue at first as it with voltage from the alternator (I was only getting about 12.03 volts), but that issue has been solved with a new 1992 SC300 110amp alt. The battery tested good (Red top) and I had ZERO popped fuses (Even the main) as it started up right away after I fixed the cables. I also changed the spark plugs out and changed the air filter (Which have NOTHING to do with my problem haha).

My next step is to check on the TPS, O2 sensor and MAP sensor voltage out put to see it that would do it.

On a side note I have a Greddy Emanage Blue installed and the battery was disconnected for about a week.... what is the chances that the Emanage needs to be reset and retuned?

I really need help as I'm not getting any codes! Please and Thanks!
 
te72

te72

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Electrical troubleshooting is far from my specialty, but is it possible you fried a sensor or something inside the ECU, or possibly in the harness itself? Electrical gremlins big and small alike can cause nasty headaches... I'd suggest testing your sensors to start with, and go from there, unless someone has a better suggestion.

Good luck!
 
scottiedawg66

scottiedawg66

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I would try your ecu in a known good car. When I grounded out my alternator I damaged my ecu, and my fuel map was all over the place as well. Good luck!
 
scottiedawg66

scottiedawg66

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I think based on your info getting a map sensor is also wise. Here is how I calibrated my tps after confirming it worked as per tsrm. At least you have codes to go after now, always nice to get some solid info out of a car. FWIW I drove about an hour to test my ecu. After spending ~16 hours trouble shooting, even with a drive I think it might be worthwhile If the tps and map sensor do not fix your issue. Hang in there.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...PS-Adjustment-Procedure-and-Testing-Procedure
 
R

Radial

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Aug 20, 2011
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MAP and TPS shares one thing in common..... they are +5v sensors along with

Check Pin 3 and your MAP for +5v, and sufficient GND on pin 1...Pin 2 is the Signal wire back to the ECU...it varies from almost 0V to 4,5V depending on Vacuum/pressure. When engine is not running you should read something around 2,5V on the signal wire. (key needs to be in the run-position though)


If your +5v feed voltage is NOT 5v... then thats your problem.
IF the Signal voltage has a non-logical value, then thats your problem (fucked map really).

But usually sensors are very robust things in therms of shortage.... The ECU on the other hand is a much more sensitive.
Not to mention the AFR-gauge.... Friend of mine did what you did, and his Innovate LC-1 Died because of it. Needed to buy a completely new unit.

Always calibrate your AFR frequently.
 
seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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Radial;1905068 said:
MAP and TPS shares one thing in common..... they are +5v sensors along with

Check Pin 3 and your MAP for +5v, and sufficient GND on pin 1...Pin 2 is the Signal wire back to the ECU...it varies from almost 0V to 4,5V depending on Vacuum/pressure. When engine is not running you should read something around 2,5V on the signal wire. (key needs to be in the run-position though)


If your +5v feed voltage is NOT 5v... then thats your problem.
IF the Signal voltage has a non-logical value, then thats your problem (fucked map really).

But usually sensors are very robust things in therms of shortage.... The ECU on the other hand is a much more sensitive.
Not to mention the AFR-gauge.... Friend of mine did what you did, and his Innovate LC-1 Died because of it. Needed to buy a completely new unit.

Always calibrate your AFR frequently.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, i'll use this when I head out and check.
 
seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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Here's an update, I miss read one of the codes..... I'm getting the following codes:

Code 14
and Code 31.

I'm going to try and clear my codes and see what they read, I checked the MAP sensor voltage and i'm getting signal too and from the map, emanage and ECU.

What do you guys think is my next step?

Replace my ignitor? Ecu?

I opened the up the emanage (Which looked normal) and the ECU (Which looked normal for the most part....) When I looked in the ECU I did notice on the bottom of the boards a few solder points had what looked like almost like a brownish kind of stain or gel or something.

Does the 2J ignitor work with the 1J?
 
te72

te72

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seoul4korea;1905719 said:
When I looked in the ECU I did notice on the bottom of the boards a few solder points had what looked like almost like a brownish kind of stain or gel or something.
Click to expand...
Errr... fortunately I've managed to avoid the leaking capacitor issue on the 1j, but sounds like what you have here. Someone who has had it happen should be able to confirm this suspicion.
 
seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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te72;1905811 said:
Errr... fortunately I've managed to avoid the leaking capacitor issue on the 1j, but sounds like what you have here. Someone who has had it happen should be able to confirm this suspicion.
Click to expand...

Yeah I have no idea.... But none to worry as I just ordered a used ignitor and a used/referbed ECU (Capacitors have been replaced). I'm hoping for the best.
 
R

Radial

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2J igniter works with 1J

Sounds like your ECU is the issue really....as code 31 states trubble with the Air metering devices (and you measured the MAP to be ok), and 14 is no IGF signal from igniter to ECU....an the ECU needs that signal to confirm a spark was triggered...
Everything points in the direction of the ECU... but if you have access to a Igniter, try it..
 
seoul4korea

seoul4korea

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Ok so I got an ECU from a member here (Replaced Caps and all) and plugged it in and started her up..... Now I'm getting a rapid blinking light (CEL) which if I remember correctly that means all clear or no codes, the car DOES run smooth but the AF are a little all over the place.

So I'm going to fuel up tomorrow and drive her into work, being that I have the all clear from the ECU I do understand that it does take time for the ECU to "relearn", how long does it take for the ECU to get stable AFRs?
 
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