I been reading on Aron manifold stud kit and I like it but im trying to avoid drilling into my motor is there a way I can 're thread the holes and drop a heilcoil and call it a day.I have all day monday to work on this and I want to upgrade my downpipe as well I took of the stock one.
need help on my my exhaust studs the spin and spin and don't lock
- Thread starter suprafreak123
- Start date
That's what Aaron's kit is. There time certs which are better. You drill out the old thread. Tap them and then screw in the time cert.
Yeah im kind of scared messing up my block even tho I play with drills a lot I rather not lol . So if Arons kit does not require a drilling into the block i think im going that route.Please confirm..... greatly appreciated (
You'll probably need a 90 degree adapter on your drill to get the closest one on the firewall.
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THANKS BACKSLASH, hopefully Aron is open today and I will be able to pick up the parts I have all day to repair my studs.
It's super easy.. just keep the drill straight with the head lol
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My way.:nono:
Was thinking to do the job with helicoil but did not have enough of them. So did my own inserts from bearing bronze. Outside has M14X2 thread and inside MF10X1.25 thread.
P.S used milling machine for frilling and making the threads......and lathe to do the inserts.
Was thinking to do the job with helicoil but did not have enough of them. So did my own inserts from bearing bronze. Outside has M14X2 thread and inside MF10X1.25 thread.
P.S used milling machine for frilling and making the threads......and lathe to do the inserts.
Going to school for precision machining.. can't wait to be able to make shit like that lol
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Dude that is super clean .I fixed mine already I took a couple hours but I got it.I picked them up at driftmotion, by the way Arons and his co worker are bad ass and his shop supra is a beast.
fromgehenna;1990848 said:
I understand sometimes you have to use what you have. But bronze? Bronze and aluminum sit on almost the complete opposite end of the galvanic scale. With aluminum sitting on the anode side and the most likely to corrode. Hopefully it doesn't become an issue, but couldn't you have picked a more compatible metal?
Dirgle;1990957 said:
Had a discussion about that matter with my elder colleague who has a good knowledge about matallurgy and he pointed me that it's not going to be an issue since the bearing bronze alloy that we have allready has 9.5--10% of aluminum in it. It also has iron, zinc and lead in it. :wave:
But only time will tell how it's going to work.
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BloodRayne7M;1990977 said:
It WAS a china manifold but......... First I cooked it in hardening owen in 800 degree of celsius for 3 hours (to relieve all tensions in welds). Then nodifyed the wastegate (turbosmart 45mm) flange and weldet some supports. Then I straighten all the flanges and coated it whit black satin. Manifold is T4 and my turbo (Master Power MPR 474-3) is T3 so did a transition flange from T4 to T3. The flange has termall sensor place in it. So some small fab work has gone in it. Hope to get my OldCrappy running in coming summer.
