havent had much luck asking on other forums so will copy and post details here.
bit of an introduction - i bought IJ tremec box/conversion for my 7m and have had some issues with crunching syncros. the following post is how ive tried to overcome it.
sorry for the long read.
i recently put my car back together after getting some1 else to rebuild the box due to crunching 3rd gear issuse... i replaced the whole 3rd gear and had all the syncro mating surfaces shot blasted with 120 grit garnet to remove any glazing, so they brass syncros were grippy as fuck and locked up easy as... also took the chance to upgrade from a 10 spline ford to a 26 splin input shaft. now the gearbox was assembled and now ive got the whole car bolted together i have encounted a major problem..........
while the gearbox was being rebuilt, i also had the clutch looked at and was shown signs of wear... the clutch is a osgiken twin plate)
we had to machine 1.5mm off the flywheel cage to preload the pressure plate properly so the fingers went flat when bolted up. other then that no other changed besides resplining the clutch plates to 26 spline since i upgraded my input shaft on the box at the same time it got rebuilt
so what problems am i having
with the car jacked up on axlestand, i start the car = all sweet.
press the clutch in and the clutch rattles like a typical twin plate = nothign unusual, feels nice and normal
now slowly try select a gear by slowly and softly moving stick into a gear and allthough it will not go into gear - even with considerable force, the rear wheels start driving
if i turn car off and try put into gear - it is also near on impossible, even if u try force it.
however if u rock car back and forth, they will go into gear easy as (if u rock car back, slips into gear - let it rock forward back where it was and u cant take it back out)
if u put the car into gear with motor off and start the car - the car is truying to drive itself nstantly while cranking. if the car is runnign in gear on axle stands and u press the clutch in - the wheels wont stop spinning and its impossible to stop them by spinning (even with handbrake it just stalls motor..
now i know its runnign a sintered bronze spigot bearing which was a tight fit, slipped onto input shaft easy enough, but was failry sticky to spin. the gearbox and all slipped on easy enough when assembling, but i know this wont be helping matters at all.
so basically not sure what could be the problem
either 2 grippy syncro surfaces
input shgaft been preloaded to much
spigot bearing to tight
clutch not releasing (havent touched the slave/master setup at all)
anyone else had similar situation??
i know i had problems with syncros coming loose in a r154 jamming the input and output shaft but this made the wheels want to drive even when in neutral. so dont think its the same as what im sufferign now.
bit of an introduction - i bought IJ tremec box/conversion for my 7m and have had some issues with crunching syncros. the following post is how ive tried to overcome it.
sorry for the long read.
i recently put my car back together after getting some1 else to rebuild the box due to crunching 3rd gear issuse... i replaced the whole 3rd gear and had all the syncro mating surfaces shot blasted with 120 grit garnet to remove any glazing, so they brass syncros were grippy as fuck and locked up easy as... also took the chance to upgrade from a 10 spline ford to a 26 splin input shaft. now the gearbox was assembled and now ive got the whole car bolted together i have encounted a major problem..........
while the gearbox was being rebuilt, i also had the clutch looked at and was shown signs of wear... the clutch is a osgiken twin plate)
we had to machine 1.5mm off the flywheel cage to preload the pressure plate properly so the fingers went flat when bolted up. other then that no other changed besides resplining the clutch plates to 26 spline since i upgraded my input shaft on the box at the same time it got rebuilt
so what problems am i having
with the car jacked up on axlestand, i start the car = all sweet.
press the clutch in and the clutch rattles like a typical twin plate = nothign unusual, feels nice and normal
now slowly try select a gear by slowly and softly moving stick into a gear and allthough it will not go into gear - even with considerable force, the rear wheels start driving
if i turn car off and try put into gear - it is also near on impossible, even if u try force it.
however if u rock car back and forth, they will go into gear easy as (if u rock car back, slips into gear - let it rock forward back where it was and u cant take it back out)
if u put the car into gear with motor off and start the car - the car is truying to drive itself nstantly while cranking. if the car is runnign in gear on axle stands and u press the clutch in - the wheels wont stop spinning and its impossible to stop them by spinning (even with handbrake it just stalls motor..
now i know its runnign a sintered bronze spigot bearing which was a tight fit, slipped onto input shaft easy enough, but was failry sticky to spin. the gearbox and all slipped on easy enough when assembling, but i know this wont be helping matters at all.
so basically not sure what could be the problem
either 2 grippy syncro surfaces
input shgaft been preloaded to much
spigot bearing to tight
clutch not releasing (havent touched the slave/master setup at all)
anyone else had similar situation??
i know i had problems with syncros coming loose in a r154 jamming the input and output shaft but this made the wheels want to drive even when in neutral. so dont think its the same as what im sufferign now.