i got a 7mgte to rebuild and i only want around 400-450 rwhp and from what i am reading stock internals should be good to around there. so im trying to decide if i should just buy new stock pistions or get like forged pistons and things like that like would stock componets be ok at 400 rwhp. and i also am thinking about ARP everthing and like a metal head gasket but not sure . opinions on what all i should do would be awsome and answer to my question would be much aprrciated!
Need 7mgte rebuild help
- Thread starter Tyler Summers
- Start date
I guess my first question is why are you buying new pistons? Are you having to bore out the block? Stock pistons will work for the horsepower your looking for. I heard for basic power the probe pistons are forged so they should work fine. Wiseco pistons are available at supra store if you want to spend a couple more dollars on a much better piston. your looking at around 700 for a set of good pistons. 4-500 for a cheaper set. 200 for very basic, let the engine run type.
ARP studs, metal head gasket. get good pistons and if you have the money you can get eagle rods to go with those Wiseco pistons and you wont have to touch the long block again unless something stupid happens. Plus if you decide to move to another engine later it can increase the buyability of your motor as well as what you can sell it for.
Dont do anything half ass, that is why these cars are money pits. Do it once, do it right and listen to the long standing members who have made mistakes and learned from them.
ARP studs, metal head gasket. get good pistons and if you have the money you can get eagle rods to go with those Wiseco pistons and you wont have to touch the long block again unless something stupid happens. Plus if you decide to move to another engine later it can increase the buyability of your motor as well as what you can sell it for.
Dont do anything half ass, that is why these cars are money pits. Do it once, do it right and listen to the long standing members who have made mistakes and learned from them.
No I just didn't know if I should freshen up the motor or not and go ahead and get new positions I don't know I have a lot of ppl telling me different things and so I thought I would just use a forum
I would freshen the motor up so you dont have to touch the motor again. Then you know its good and dont have to question it down the road.
Tyler Summers;1934694 said:
you shouldn't be thinking about arp everything an thinking about a mhg you should just get it also stock internals are fine for your power as said above but getting after market internals you can still build a solid engine arps will help ensure nothing will blow like the hg but make sure you torque it right make sure you also do the build right if you screw up anything these engines are money pit..you're a new member I can see how long have you had the engine?
i have had motor for about 2 weeks now i went and picked it up and havnt done anything yet because i havnt decided what i should do yet. and so just everything new stock should be fine right. im trying to decided if i should just replace all gaskets and arp or if i should replace rods and pistions so they fresh to. and i just new to 7m motors i work on cars alot and know good bit about 2jz motors i was actually gonna do a swap but decided not to. and what in yalls opinion should i do to get around 400 rwhp
400 hp
stock head is fine if recomend upgrade in springs
forged I internals
intercooler
2.5 inch hard pipes
tuning device or standalone
550 cc injectors
lexus intake
upgraded turbo
3 inch exhaust
itd be easier to hit if you went t4
oh and upgrade fuel pump also
this will limit you to about 450
a good tuning device is something like a MAFT pro which then you don't need the lexus afm
stock head is fine if recomend upgrade in springs
forged I internals
intercooler
2.5 inch hard pipes
tuning device or standalone
550 cc injectors
lexus intake
upgraded turbo
3 inch exhaust
itd be easier to hit if you went t4
oh and upgrade fuel pump also
this will limit you to about 450
a good tuning device is something like a MAFT pro which then you don't need the lexus afm
i want to try to use stock internals. replace all gaskets , but use a metal head gasket. arp head studs. lexus afm. 550 injectors
BryanDyer;1935287 said:
all correct except not all explained. If you go with a 57 trim CT26 or a 60-1 CT26, you can keep the "stock" 3" exhaust setup, if not, then your going to need a different manifold. If you can afford it.. go T4.. newer style turbo.. more power.. less limitations. Cheaper to go there now then to upgrade everything and decide later the CT26 wont flow enough (its a small turbo relatively speaking).
Tuning device can be very dependent on the tuner. Find the tuner first.. then get what he can tune properly. But go be references... there are many ways to tune the car, but the best tuners will do you right. Lexus AFM and 550's will not allow for tuning. Also, the injectors are very dependent on your turbo as well. Higher flow may demand more fuel. For your power goals, the 550's are ample although you may need to go with a larger fuel pump (Walbro 255 lph or there are others, I went with the Denso MKIV fuel pump). You will need an AFPR to control your fuel flow if you go larger. I was washing the cylinder walls with over fueling at WOT so I had to turn down the pressure. You don't really need an upgraded fuel pump with the 550's initially. Your biggest problem will be if you lean out at WOT though.. it will kill the engine quick. (If you don't understand this... you should research detonation and leaning out)
Also, you do not need forged at your power goals. The OEM pistons would be fine. However, you aren't mentioning car overall condition or if its R154 or auto or W58 transmission. 400 HP will make a stock clutch setup slip if I remember correctly...
You can run with stock intercooler, however it has some bottlenecks. An upgrade is a good idea.
Then... think about how your going to actually stop the rocket when it takes off... and how well your going to handle a curve... suspension and brakes cannot be overlooked.
In the end, planning for a stand alone is far better than going with the Lexus/550 upgrade. I would only consider Lexus 550/AFM for a stable 300-325 rwhp MK3. Higher is riskier and harder because the ECU will get you so rich on fuel you will peak out. Too much fuel means no room for air so you max your power sooner. Your torque (which is also really important) would probably be at about 375 with the lexus afm/550 setup when you hit 300 at the wheels. Good hard pulls, but you peak early. Too little fuel will mean you lean out and melt your pistons... (is very hard to do with 550's and a CT26.. the ECU is setup to prevent that). The Lexus afm/550's was intended for higher flow without hitting fuel cut but keeping the engine safe as well. It has its limitations to prevent engine death. After going this path, I am now going stand alone.
And research boost controllers.. you will want that. My 57 trim wastegate was 10 psi.. so without the boost controller or shimming the wastegate, that was my limit. It felt nice.. but I wanted more. For 400, you will need more.
My final thought is... a lot of folks don't realize what 400 rwhp feels like in a MK3. 300-325 is pretty damn awesome, but I break traction with my low profile 255's on a 18" rim.
So... questions.
Got a photo of the car its going into and specs? (age/mileage/trans/suspension)
Planning on streetable DD style ride or tracking the car for 1/4 mile runs?
Dropping it into a Supra or a Pinto?
All the info here is probably going to be slanted on you building a 1986.5-1992 Toyota Supra.. not a 7MGTE powered Rav4....
I agree with the part that the Lexus/550 mod was intended for more flow without fuel cut but also disagree with the part that the lexus/550's will not allow for tuning...what's the difference with those from tuning with stock AFM and stock injectors?
Also the answer to your questions and all questions alike comes down to the question we must all ask ourselves at some point...where do we draw the line between how much we want to spend and reliability? Sure you can get away with doing no upgrades to the internals and cranking up boost......for awhile.
Also the answer to your questions and all questions alike comes down to the question we must all ask ourselves at some point...where do we draw the line between how much we want to spend and reliability? Sure you can get away with doing no upgrades to the internals and cranking up boost......for awhile.
What I meant was.. no tuning with just a Lexus AFM/550 upgrade. You need a Stand alone or piggyback systems to do that. The only thing you can do with the AFM is adjust the screw for how much it fools the ECU. A standalone system would take different more accurate readings rather than making the assumptions the ECU makes (after you fool it).
I wouldn't consider that tuning...
I wouldn't consider that tuning...
O i see what your saying your taljjng about just them by themselves. Your right if you have the means for standalone and know someone that can tune it youre set and wont regret it. Otherwise piggyback, afpr, wideband is plenty for most peoples goals...but you have to know what your doing there too.
ill figure how to post pics in few . its 1987 supra 5speed turbo targa top. and it sits on 18' BBS wheels , R154 tranny. mileage no clue to be honest