My problems..

[dimixtron]

I tried doing a search but I didn't come up with much.
Here are my problems in full.

I've already ran into a BHG, which I didn't have the know-how or the time to do it myself, so I had it replaced with HKS 1.2mm MHG, ARP Hardware.

My main problems still occuring are these;

1)In need of a new Throttle Position Sensor, had my friend test it and it came up with no response.

2)New Knock Sensor wiring

3)When I try to start my car, I can't just hop in my car and turn the key and have the ignition turn over. Say from going to sleep at night to waking up in the morning to go to work. When I do so, my car usually doesn't click, can take anywhere from a few tries to a minute or so. When I do get it going, it clicks a few times, then after that the engine finally turns over, but my problems don't end there. One the car does turnover, it is really boggy. Like it's dying to stay alive, and in order to keep the car from shutting off, I need to tap the gas pedal. Althought this doesn't happen after I've been driving my car around.

4)My car does idle extremely high, idles at about 1500-2000RPM. Any ideas on this?

5)Don't know if this is really an issue, more like an annoyance, but whenever I try to reverse, I get that grinding gear sound.

Anything else I need to fix at the moment isn't apparent. But I will update this thread so I don't create too many posts.

Also, I'm a pretty new owner of an mk3, purchased in January 08. As well, I'm new to SupraMania, and I've got to say this place has more info then I could've dreamed of :].

And any response to any of the above problems is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Dimitris

 

[jkbmkiii]

First off your TPS will cause the car all kinds of issues if not working correctly, replace that first, as far as your starting problem , I dont know...

You should give some more info on the car to, miles, new parts, any codes car is putting out, ect.

Really you need to check the codes on the car first....

 

[sneakypete]

I tried doing a search but I didn't come up with much.
Here are my problems in full.

I've already ran into a BHG, which I didn't have the know-how or the time to do it myself, so I had it replaced with HKS 1.2mm MHG, ARP Hardware.

My main problems still occuring are these;

1)In need of a new Throttle Position Sensor, had my friend test it and it came up with no response.

2)New Knock Sensor wiring

3)When I try to start my car, I can't just hop in my car and turn the key and have the ignition turn over. Say from going to sleep at night to waking up in the morning to go to work. When I do so, my car usually doesn't click, can take anywhere from a few tries to a minute or so. When I do get it going, it clicks a few times, then after that the engine finally turns over, but my problems don't end there. One the car does turnover, it is really boggy. Like it's dying to stay alive, and in order to keep the car from shutting off, I need to tap the gas pedal. Althought this doesn't happen after I've been driving my car around.

4)My car does idle extremely high, idles at about 1500-2000RPM. Any ideas on this?

5)Don't know if this is really an issue, more like an annoyance, but whenever I try to reverse, I get that grinding gear sound.

Anything else I need to fix at the moment isn't apparent. But I will update this thread so I don't create too many posts.

Also, I'm a pretty new owner of an mk3, purchased in January 08. As well, I'm new to SupraMania, and I've got to say this place has more info then I could've dreamed of :].

And any response to any of the above problems is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Dimitris

try starting the car while your friend wiggles the wires for the cps. if your facing the engine bay, follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the water neck. the cps is right behind the water neck attached to the cylinder head.
theres a good chance this needs to be rewired. also check your timing... it could be off.
check out the tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx lots of good info

 

[dimixtron]

First off your TPS will cause the car all kinds of issues if not working correctly, replace that first, as far as your starting problem , I dont know...

You should give some more info on the car to, miles, new parts, any codes car is putting out, ect.

Really you need to check the codes on the car first....

Yeah I know, I get paid this Thursday so when I do I'm going to head down to see Aaron and pick up a TPS from him. The car has 166,000 roughly, any new parts were just what I mentioned above. Car was putting out codes for Knock Sensor and ECU Temp, but I got rid of the ECU Temp and I still have a Code 51. As far as parts go, the guy I bought the car off of had numeruous HKS parts and some minor audio enhancements. But as far as anything I've done since I've bought the car, nothing except for the BHG parts.

 

[jkbmkiii]

try starting the car while your friend wiggles the wires for the cps. if your facing the engine bay, follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the water neck. the cps is right behind the water neck attached to the cylinder head.
theres a good chance this needs to be rewired. also check your timing... it could be off.
check out the tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx lots of good info

Good call!

 

[dimixtron]

try starting the car while your friend wiggles the wires for the cps. if your facing the engine bay, follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the water neck. the cps is right behind the water neck attached to the cylinder head.
theres a good chance this needs to be rewired. also check your timing... it could be off.
check out the tsrm http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx lots of good info

Oh man! You made me remember, that happened to me last time, my friend, Johnathan also a MKIII owner, wiggled the CPS wiring while I was trying to start the car and it started fine when right before that I couldn't get anything but a click out of it. Althought I don't know where the CPS wiring is, I know that's what he did . About how much would that run to rewire the it?

 

[jkbmkiii]

Oh man! You made me remember, that happened to me last time, my friend, Johnathan also a MKIII owner, wiggled the CPS wiring while I was trying to start the car and it started fine when right before that I couldn't get anything but a click out of it. Althought I don't know where the CPS wiring is, I know that's what he did . About how much would that run to rewire the it?

Do it you self and its very cheap!

 

[dimixtron]

Do it you self and its very cheap!

Haha, now, how much for the lesson on how to rewire it? :aigo:

 

[jkbmkiii]

Step #1 You need to know how to solder wire, or somebody that does..??

 

[sneakypete]

Haha, now, how much for the lesson on how to rewire it? :aigo:

its less painful on your back and knees if you take the cps out first. its a good idea to have different color wires handy so you dont confuse yourself. soldering iron, solder, wire cutters, strippers, and crimpers are also needed. you can either buy a male and female universal 4-pin connector (recommended) at your local parts store, or use male and female spade connectors.
cut off the sleeve that is covering the wires from the cps to the connector. check to see if the insulation on the wires are frayed or melted. if they are, you will need to cut them back and solder new wires (if there are more than one wire of the same color, replace them all with the same color wire).
remember to do each one at a time.
once wires are replaced/repaired, attach the male end of the universal connector the wires.

after this you have to cut off the connector from the wiring harness in the engine bay and attach the female end of the universal connector to the wires. (be sure to connect the wires from the female end them in the same pattern as you connected the male end).

 

[dimixtron]

its less painful on your back and knees if you take the cps out first. its a good idea to have different color wires handy so you dont confuse yourself. soldering iron, solder, wire cutters, strippers, and crimpers are also needed. you can either buy a male and female universal 4-pin connector (recommended) at your local parts store, or use male and female spade connectors.
cut off the sleeve that is covering the wires from the cps to the connector. check to see if the insulation on the wires are frayed or melted. if they are, you will need to cut them back and solder new wires (if there are more than one wire of the same color, replace them all with the same color wire).
remember to do each one at a time.
once wires are replaced/repaired, attach the male end of the universal connector the wires.

after this you have to cut off the connector from the wiring harness in the engine bay and attach the female end of the universal connector to the wires. (be sure to connect the wires from the female end them in the same pattern as you connected the male end).

Alright thanks a lot, I'll get the materials needed, aside from a soldering iron, and have my friend help me out with it :].
Now another question, could the CPS wiring also lead to why my cars starts up really BOGGY and why it idles at 1500-2000RPM, or is that probably because of my TPS?

 

[sneakypete]

it idles that high all the time? or only when you first start the car?
you should check your timing. car wont run right if timing is off. tps could also be a problem. or might even be your afm.
with me, my idle was messed up because my isc wasnt working. so i got one from a friend, cleaned it out and all is good.
first start with what you know you need to fix, and then move on from there.
have you checked your codes?

 

[dimixtron]

it idles that high all the time? or only when you first start the car?
you should check your timing. car wont run right if timing is off. tps could also be a problem. or might even be your afm.
with me, my idle was messed up because my isc wasnt working. so i got one from a friend, cleaned it out and all is good.
first start with what you know you need to fix, and then move on from there.
have you checked your codes?

It does that all the time, when I start the car usually it'll hang around 1500, but after driving around it hangs out around 2000. What happens sometimes though, if I sharply press and release the gas it drops down to 800-1000RPM's then slowly goes back up again. And to check my timing I would...?
Well what I NEED to fix right now is; TPS; Knock Sensor Wiring; CPS Wiring. I get a code 52 only for the Knock Sensor Signal. And as I said I used to have one for the ECU Temp Sensor, which was bad, and I replaced.

Edit_
One more thing I forgot to mention. The car doesn't always click when I turn the key, sometimes I can turn the key and hold it in the position you would to start the car, and after a little while it'll click.

 

[johnathan1]

Hey everyone...just in case any of you were wondering, I'm that "friend" of his lol.

His car basically won't crank at all on the first try, (no relay click or anything) but if you keep trying, it will eventually crank and start, usually on the 3rd-4th try. I am thinking either the starter relay, the starter itself, or the ignition switch is bad/flaky. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[sneakypete]

i would start with the cps and move from there. if there is still starting problems... i would look into the starter and relay. although i doubt its the problem. my car has the original starter from 1987 and the only starting related issues ive had were the battery cables and the cps wiring.
as far as the idle goes, take off the isc and diaphram and clean them off. once its off, there are a few tiny screws holding the plastic cover on it, remove them and clean out the inside. put it all back together, put the diaphram back in (spokes facing out), then the black rubber ring on top, and then the isc. be sure to attach the coolant line before you do this. also if the gasket is falling apart, get a new one from toyota or get some gasket paper from napa auto parts and make your own.

 

[gtsfirefighter]

The CPS is not going to have a damn thing to do with the starter not wanting to turn over, unless you've got the timing so far out of phase, but that's another story. If the motor cranks and won't start, check your tach. If it doesn't flicker when you crank then you have a CPS issue and then you can start wiggling wires. If the wires are bad you can also wiggle them while the motor is running and it will die.

Your starter: Could be one or more issues.
Check the battery first.
Do you hear a click in the lower right kick panel? If not then maybe an ignition switch problem or relay is going bad.
Weak contacts. Maybe time to replace.
***Weak starter signal wire*** A very common problem and one that I just fixed. The little brown wire that plugs into the bottom of the starter. Over time they get weak and won't allow enough amps through to engage the starter. Replacing the starter is a temporary fix because as the contacts wear down it will start to do the same thing again.

Try this. Using jumper cables, jump your car off from another. If it cranks and does not click, then you most likely have a weakening signal wire. This is assuming your battery is good. God only knows where the wires go bad at but I used a standard automotive relay to patch mine up. Don't have time to explain now but if interested PM me.

 

[Darkknight17]

Had this problem also, rewired the cps and it started. That is like the heart of the car, so do it right and youll be fine. As for me, when i got the car started i got a bad leak from the crankshaft pulley hole and it looked like around the left side of oil pan?? Im thinking it could be the seal. But main question to all would be what would cause the car not to move. I put it in drive and nothing, reverse and nothing. It only move about a foot today and that was it. 1990 automatic, just replaced engine due to rodknock. Any suggestions would be great!!

 

[johnathan1]

Had this problem also, rewired the cps and it started. That is like the heart of the car, so do it right and youll be fine. As for me, when i got the car started i got a bad leak from the crankshaft pulley hole and it looked like around the left side of oil pan?? Im thinking it could be the seal. But main question to all would be what would cause the car not to move. I put it in drive and nothing, reverse and nothing. It only move about a foot today and that was it. 1990 automatic, just replaced engine due to rodknock. Any suggestions would be great!!

Starting a new thread would be a good idea...