my first bhg.
- Thread starter thesandymancan
- Start date
There is a excellent write up in IJ's build thread a few pages back, Very interesting read anyways on why HG can fail..
also, my front crank seal is leaking oil, can i replace this wile my head is off? i would perfer not to pull my motor. i think it's posible, almost everything is out of the engine bay when the head is out.
IJ: could i get pics of thoes parts and posibly a part #?
thanks for your input guys!
IJ: could i get pics of thoes parts and posibly a part #?
thanks for your input guys!
thesandymancan said:
Your lucky!
Bars Leaks website said:
No offence to any spanish person but it tends to be a sign of a shit product!
thesandymancan said:
You can, but you will have to remove the crank pulley and lower timing cover to do so. I would replace the cam seals and timing belt while you're there. You might need to replace the timing belt tensioning pulley as well. I'd use Toyota OEM parts here...Jeff Watson at Champion Toyota can help you out with the parts.
You will need a tool to press the cam seal in...you can make one out of PVC pipe and cap. Match the diameter of the PVC pipe to the cam seal and drill a hole in the cap that allows a correct size bolt to pass through to the cam shaft hole. You just turn the bolt to seat the seal...don't forget to lube the seal before you put it on.
One thing about putting a MHG on this motor...BOTH the head and block will need to be decked to the spec RA. That means pulling the motor. You may want to consider (depending on the motor's milage) doing a 3 angle valve job on the head and replace the valve seals while it is off the car.
Good luck...a lot of us here feel your pain on the BHG routine.
Last edited:
Sandy: Check on the Toyota World site for prices it's just the big arse heater fitting on the back of the head!
If you're NOT getting both the block and head correctly surfaced you're wasting your time fitting a MHG you'd be far better off with a Composite one.
If you're NOT getting both the block and head correctly surfaced you're wasting your time fitting a MHG you'd be far better off with a Composite one.
how would a composite gasket hold if it's properly torqued? what ra is required? will i need to have my block machined?
my total budget has been set! $800... thats it!
i'm not looking to rebuild now, just patch until i've got the funds for a propper rebuild.
jdub: how mutch we lookin at here?
my total budget has been set! $800... thats it!
i'm not looking to rebuild now, just patch until i've got the funds for a propper rebuild.
jdub: how mutch we lookin at here?
As long as you don't detonate it the Composite gasket will be fine and given a good clean up of the block should be fine!
Here's a really good Gasket article I posted a couple of pages back in my big thread.
A very comprehensive and informative article on Head Gaskets!
Here's a really good Gasket article I posted a couple of pages back in my big thread.
A very comprehensive and informative article on Head Gaskets!
thesandymancan said:
You can get a valve job done for $500-600 depending on where you live...the key is to get the decking done to RA spec for a MHG. Even if you go w/ a Toyota composite, I would still get the head done to MHG spec while it's at the shop. You won't have to do it again later so it minimizes the $$$ spent overall when you do a re-build of the bottom end. Quality machine work on the head pays off in the end...you want to do it once and it is worth the $$$ spent to get it done right. Double check that the vave shim clearances are in spec and cam retainers are torqued correctly.
Toyota composite HG, valve seals, timing belt, and cam seals...under a $150. I would definitely replace the big banjo fitting & bolt at the back of the head. You will need a new exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gasket, and injector O-rings....possibly new injector grommets too. As I said, you might need a new timing belt tensioner. This stuff will be in the $75-100 range. Personally, I would use all Toyota OEM gaskets and seals...Jeff Watson at Champion Toyota will give you the best price on these, unless you got a buddy on the inside :naughty:
I would not re-use the stock HG bolts...ARP is the only way to go, ARP studs are best. You can re-use the ARP hardware later...should be no problem, just make sure you torque to ARP spec and follow the torque pattern in the TRSM. The studs will cost you $100-125. I would chase the head bolt threads with the proper tap.
All this assumes you do the grunt work yourself...pulling the head, etc. and you don't run into any addition problems, like stripped exhaust manifold studs or a bad valve guide. While I'm thinking about it (and you probably won't have to do it now), I would helicoil the exhaust manifold studs when you re-build the bottom end...it's pretty common for them to strip at some point.
I know this busts your $800 budget, but you should be able to keep the cost in the $1000 range. Doing it right will allow 12-14 psi of boost on a CT26 with no problem on a composite gasket and you won't waste a lot of $$$ when you do re-build the bottom end. That's likely to happen when you get the dreaded rod knock
Last edited:
unfortunately, i have rod knock already. so i plan to a patch job, (i know, i know. do it rite the first time. ) and baby it until i can save the cash to do a full motor rebuild. i plan on getting new everything, and i mean EVERYTHING but the block. :evil2:
i need it to hold until winter at least. by then i should have the cash and knolege to do the rebuild myself w/ little or no help from a shop.
) and baby it until i can save the cash to do a full motor rebuild. i plan on getting new everything, and i mean EVERYTHING but the block. :evil2: i need it to hold until winter at least. by then i should have the cash and knolege to do the rebuild myself w/ little or no help from a shop.
thesandymancan said:unfortunately, i have rod knock already. so i plan to a patch job, (i know, i know. do it rite the first time.
i need it to hold until winter at least. by then i should have the cash and knolege to do the rebuild myself w/ little or no help from a shop.
Dude - if you got rod knock, that needs to be fixed. You could throw a rod after spending the cash on the above and it trash the motor...I've seen a rod come out the side of the block. If that happens, you won't have a bottom end to re-build.
You might want to buy a JDM motor and swap the motors out using the USDM parts that are different from your car. That will keep it running. Do a search here on that, you will probably spend in the $1000 range...go for one that's been checked out from a vendor with a good rep & warranty.
That way, you can take your old motor and do the re-build over time...and build the beast :evil2: I had a minor BHG that I was able to nurse for over a year...ran it only when necessary while I built my motor up. It took a while, but did it right and swapped them out last Aug. I'm still working on it...a Supra is always an ongoing project...that's just the way it is if you own one of these cars
That way, you can take your old motor and do the re-build over time...and build the beast :evil2: I had a minor BHG that I was able to nurse for over a year...ran it only when necessary while I built my motor up. It took a while, but did it right and swapped them out last Aug. I'm still working on it...a Supra is always an ongoing project...that's just the way it is if you own one of these cars
I would baby the hell out of it, and constantly check/change the oil...keep driving to a minumum...try to stay off of the freeway if possible.
update! i recieved my head gasket and studs today! fel-pro hg and arp obviously. cant wait until its done. it will take a while because of work but that jobs almost done so... more time for the supra!