my cheap and fast boost leak test

twan

Supramania Contributor
Oct 18, 2009
93
0
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Toronto, Ontario, Canada
this may be just cheap for me because i am a fire sprinkler fitter and have all these parts lying around at home. anyways the inter-cooler setup i have requires i have 9 couplings and double the hose clamps. and its hard to tell if your coupling is fully sealed and connected unless you take your car out for a drive and put the engine under load.
so this is the material list i made for my 2.5'' cooleeze inter-cooler piping

material
2''x2''x1/2'' threaded t
1/2''x1/4'' bushing
2''x3/4'' bushing
2'' threaded pipe cap
3/4'' nipple
3/4''x1/4'' 90 (elbow)
1/4'' nipple
1/4'' quick connect hose attachment
compressor and hose
t-tape (Teflon tape)
1/4'' pressure gauge
various sizes in electrical merets and hose clamps

instructions
assemble threaded t with 1/2''x1/4'' at the top for the 1/4'' gauge and t-tape all threads in opposite direction of the threads. 2''x3/4'' bushing with 3/4''x1/4'' 90 holds the 1/4'' quick connect on one side of the threaded t (t-tape all threads here also)
remove air filter and accordion. take off afm and all vacuum hoses going to accordion and plug holes with electrical merets and hose clamp them tight. insert assembled t into the afm side of the accordion and make sure of a firm seal. attach accordion to turbo inlet. remove coupling going to throttle body and shove the 2'' cap in there and hose clamp her shut.

at this point you should be ready for pumping the system with air. but remember, most stock systems only use 8-15 psi. so unless you have a solid ic piping and bigger turbo we wont need more than 15psi of air. although it will be much easier to hear a boost leak at 20psi its just that its not necessary and could be dangerous since the air is just sitting in the pipes and not flowing through the engine like it would while driving.
so go ahead now and pump the system and if there are any leaks remove hose and drain air before fixing leak. just tightening hose clamp where leaking isnt a good idea. if you are using the cheaper hose clamps like i am it better if you completely loosen the clamp and move it around to a more suitable position and try tightening it again.
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sorry for the poor quality pics. hence the "fast" part of this test is that i used my cell for pics

happy to answer any of your questions