my 85 7mgte dyno #'s
- Thread starter avp23
- Start date
no not yet. since my battery is in the trunk i have to have a outside kill switch and i dont want to drill a hole to do that so im going to have to change some things around just to go to the track. but i really want to find out. im shooting for 11's.
hottscennessey;1031274 said:
so i shouldnt go 2 degrees back or foward? Just drop the fuel pressure?
I know that this set up is capible of 400HP so just getting there is my battle. that was/is my goal 400WHP. ok so im going to go back to the dyno and drop the pressure and retune! Sound good?
avp23;1031348 said:
What is your base fuel pressure set at (what does it read with the vac. line disconnected and/or plugged).
Usually the issue people run into with tuning a 7MGTE is fuel cut. Too advanced timing is not generally an issue with this ECU. For years people have been passing the 500whp mark on the stock ECU and a piggyback no better than your SAFC.
I assume you're not running a FCD (fuel cut defencer)? Usually this cause people to run lean because the Hz put out by the AFM are capped, therefore the ECU does not see the additional air entering the engine and doesn't compensate with more fuel.
A basic rule of thumb with the 7M ECU is the more fuel you pull (via the SAFC of course), the more the ECU is advancing the timing.
In your case the tuner is saying the car's timing is too advanced, or at least that's what we're assuming. By dropping the fuel pressure we have two goals:
1) to lean you out a little bit, get your AFR's closer to that 11.5 "conservative" region
2) if you are able to drop the fuel pressure enough, you can then add fuel with the SAFC, wich will then retard your timing to a more conservative level.
*this is what I recommend you do*
-1) drop the fuel pressure so that it's in the 11.5 AFR range under boost
-2)add a couple % of fuel with the SAFC (note: % is NOT linear per RPM; IE: 2% @ 3KRPM is NOT = to 2% at 5KRPM)
-3)drop the fuel pressure again so that you're in that 11.5 AFR range under boost.
First things first post up your base fuel pressure so we can see how much room we have to play with here.
OH, and for your fuel return, does it still go through the "J-Tube" on the block? This is a fuel return line hard line bolted to the block on the intake side.
If your return from the FPR still goes through this J-tube, the J-tube has a restriction in it which needs to be drilled out. Then your base fuel pressure needs to be re-set. This J-tube restriction will cause you to run VERY rich because it will not allow proper control of your fuel pressure.
If your return from the FPR still goes through this J-tube, the J-tube has a restriction in it which needs to be drilled out. Then your base fuel pressure needs to be re-set. This J-tube restriction will cause you to run VERY rich because it will not allow proper control of your fuel pressure.
hottscennessey;1031641 said:
I do not have the J tube. i cant remember what the pressure is right now. i want to say 35-40ish is what i think its at.
Just to let you know, my set screw in the afm is all the way in, FYI. thats all.
O and i have no FCD Fuel cut defender. Just Apexi AFC and Apexi AVCR, and the nice fuel pressure reg. those are the only things on my car that i can think of that i can adjust. thanks man you a great help. and every one else on here thats given there 2 cents.
Andrew
avp23;1032465 said:
No problem man! That's what our community is here for.
Double check on that fuel pressure. I believe on my 7M I used to run about 32psi BFP.
I'd also recommend drilling out the adjustment screw, and backing it out so you can let in a little bit more air without making any adjustment on the SAFC. This will also help put you a little further away from fuel cut. I completely forgot about that! Good call.
Here is advise given to me in my thread by Noah89T. The line he refers to is the vaccuum line on the AFPR.
noah89t;1001842 said:
hottscennessey;1030804 said:I think that you should go back to the dyno, drop the fuel pressure, maybe add some fuel with the SAFC in some places to compensate for the drop in fuel pressure. View your results. Then say to him "now why couldn't you do that?"
lol I'm just say you've got a lot left in your current setup at the same boost level.
Really you should take care of this issue because it's not good for you car to be running that rich, especially when the 7M can be somewhat inclinded to rod bearing failures from the get-go. Unburn fuel in the oil can't help.
Hes got fresh rings lol....not for long at that fuel level.
I do agree...he could have done more. Lowering fuel pressure a couple pounds check it, then adjust the safc to compensate. When adjusting, make sure under full boost the leanest you get is 12.4 maybe .5 but i wouldnt want to push it. Its best to stay around 12.0 just in case (weather conditions vary)(4th gear pull makes it easier)
One thing that boggles my mind....with all the noise on the dyno, (car running rollers spinning and loud fans spinning...they can hear knock or "pinging"? lol That would have to be some terrible knock and i would have towed the car home lol. Most detonation you cant even hear (on boosted vehicles). Hence knock sensors.
im reading your guys replys now but i thought that i should say that my fuel pressure is at 30. With out vaccume its 40.
ok, so after reading, my question is i dont think my ohms on my injectors are going to be the same cause they are RC 550's. Or are they?
hottscennessey;1033008 said:
Sorry "avp23" i dont mean to hijack your thread but,
hottscennessey, i need some advice.
I also recently got my supra dyno'd aswell, but i have a problem. The tuner didn't know what he was doing and so he tuned it at 15 degrees advanced on the timing, pressure regulater at 40 and wonder why it pinged! here are my modifications
supra turbo-a model.
1.2mmhks h/gasket
550 rc injectors
hks afpr (waiting on aeromotive to turn up)
550walbro
map ecu
60-1 garrett turbo
p/p head
150psi across all 6 cyl
spearco intercooler
cooleze pipes
hks bov
and the dyno sheet
also you can see its running to rich. what is your advise? put timing to 10?, what about pressure reg? i will be running 98%octane fuel and will boost turbo to 18psi. what is your thoughts and recommendations? because i am going to another tuner. Thankyou!!!
Turbo-a,
Unfortunately I don't know much about your car's ECU, but one red flag was the advanced base timing of 15*. If I were you, I'd go with whatever the TSRM for your car suggests. From there I would probably scale the signal with an SAFC to tune. Keep in mind you'll still be advancing the timing by pulling fuel which is probably not what you should be doing. You might want to ask some of the 1JZ guys on the forums about how they tune, as they also work off a MAP based ECU.
Sorry I couldn't be more help!
Unfortunately I don't know much about your car's ECU, but one red flag was the advanced base timing of 15*. If I were you, I'd go with whatever the TSRM for your car suggests. From there I would probably scale the signal with an SAFC to tune. Keep in mind you'll still be advancing the timing by pulling fuel which is probably not what you should be doing. You might want to ask some of the 1JZ guys on the forums about how they tune, as they also work off a MAP based ECU.
Sorry I couldn't be more help!
ok so since i had the day off i went to talk to the tuner at the shop i dynoed at.
the motor only pings when boost is added, bottom line. i asked him about adjusting the fuel pressure reg and he said that my fuel system was fine. (theres enough Fuel) so then we came to the conclusion that i should play with my timing.
My check engine light comes on (knock sencor) when i hit 0 boost/vac. with means that my motor does not like boost. so i guess im gonna try something different. its set to ten degrese right now and when it gets dry out side im going to set it to 8, drive it around and see if how it does.
what do you guys think?
the motor only pings when boost is added, bottom line. i asked him about adjusting the fuel pressure reg and he said that my fuel system was fine. (theres enough Fuel) so then we came to the conclusion that i should play with my timing.
My check engine light comes on (knock sencor) when i hit 0 boost/vac. with means that my motor does not like boost. so i guess im gonna try something different. its set to ten degrese right now and when it gets dry out side im going to set it to 8, drive it around and see if how it does.
what do you guys think?
If you're getting a CEL for the knock sensor it is NOT because your motor is knocking, it is because you are having issues with the knock sensor wiring or the knock sensor itself. Search for the writeup on re-wireing the knock sensor (usually the culprit).
well my wire harness is Brand new as in i bought it from the dealer last feb. so its got to be the knock sencer.
i looked and found his thread, great write up and product i might say. i'll recomend that to a friend of mine. but like i said before, its a new harness so i'm going to scout out some new knock sencor's. i know they are like 130.00 each:cry: thats the cheapest ones i could find. thanks man.