Most bullet proof rods

[suprabad]

That's it.

Im running stock rods that have been shot peened. They haven't blown through the block and out the hood, or through the oil pan and stuck in the ground yet, but on my next motor I'm gonna spring for nice connecting rods and I wanted to get your guys opinion on who makes the most "abuseable" rods?

 

[whudafux]

Pauter Rods

https://pagparts.com/perfpts6.asp?pprd=gtconnectingrod&mfrid=242

 

[suprabad]

Pauter Rods

Better than Crower "pro series" 4340 steel billet rods?

Remember, I said toughest, most abusable.

 

[IJ.]

Pauter here.

Haven't even looked like failing through MUCHO abuse.

"If" you could find a set of Mechart's they're a brilliant rod but ultra rare.

Any of the small volume boutique rods are pretty damn tough.

 

[gofastgeorge]

I have a set of blank Mechart rods,
with instructions on turning them into the finished product.
Been keeping them for NA build.
Never considered them 'turbo-proof' since they are castings.

Am I wrong IJ, have you seen them in turbo applications ?

The guy who made them, Gary Witt is retierd now.
And yes, Super Rare !!
Took me several years to find a set for my 510 Datsun.

 

[themadhatter]

always heard good things about Crower rods

 

[ArmandoP]

i have no experience with crower, but ive seen pauters take some unbelievable abuse...

 

[Nick M]

That's it.

Aioi Works in the Wartsila Sulzer RTA96 application. I was going to say caterpillar, but then I thought about some of the diesel locomotives that are a 1000 cubes per cylinder. Then I remembered some even bigger so hit google for you.

 

[bigboost7m]

Oliver Billet steel, absolutely one of the best rods I have ever used. Much alike in strength and quality as compared to a Carillo, just a lot cheaper.
For a set of custom length rods for a SB Ford, they costed $1,100. Which is not bad seeing they hold 1,263hp on low boost, and occasional cruises down the street, etc. The motor makes 1,573hp and 1,340ft lbs:evil2: on maximum allowable boost, and runs consistent high 7 sec 1/4s. Motor has been refreshed every 4-6 race weekends, but still has the original set of Olivers that it was built with in 2006.

Then again budget and application play a huge role in part decision. But could you imagine a 7M with aluminum rods/lightweight crank????? I've thought about it for my next build (not for street, of course). The aluminum rods are actually cheaper as compared to a billet steel, but do not last nearly as long.

PS- I think the question is somewhat generic though, without a target application. Whats your hp goal? Intended usage? Budget? etc. The more specific you are in your question, the more specific of an answer you will get.

 

[jdub]

Crower in current motor...going with Pauter's on the one I'm building now.

 

[IJ.]

I have a set of blank Mechart rods,
with instructions on turning them into the finished product.
Been keeping them for NA build.
Never considered them 'turbo-proof' since they are castings.

Am I wrong IJ, have you seen them in turbo applications ?

The guy who made them, Gary Witt is retierd now.
And yes, Super Rare !!
Took me several years to find a set for my 510 Datsun.

They get their strength through the design but as always you'd need a good tune as ANYTHING will break (they're investment cast pieces)

Then again budget and application play a huge role in part decision. But could you imagine a 7M with aluminum rods/lightweight crank????? I've thought about it for my next build (not for street, of course). The aluminum rods are actually cheaper as compared to a billet steel, but do not last nearly as long.

.

Al rods are a throwaway after xx hours, not sure about you but I'd hate the last 10 hours of their lifespan!

 

[upgradedsupra]

They get their strength through the design but as always you'd need a good tune as ANYTHING will break (they're investment cast pieces)

True story Ian.

Al rods are a throwaway after xx hours, not sure about you but I'd hate the last 10 hours of their lifespan!

Also, I had shot peened rods and raced them for 4 years.

I now run Cunningham Titanium rifle drilled rods

Duane

 

[91T breezen']

I now run Cunningham Titanium rifle drilled rods

Duane

Is that a shootin' rifle? (spits tobacco juice):icon_razz

 

[IJ.]

Mecharts>>

 

[bigboost7m]

"Al rods are a throwaway after xx hours, not sure about you but I'd hate the last 10 hours of their lifespan!"

Correct, I understand that, but as i said "not for street, of course". Aluminum rods do not really have a problem at a durability standpoint (considering a good tune), its just the metal is softer, and over time the clearences grow, which is not something you can adjust on aluminum rods (other than over/under sized bearings). The aluminum is more "elastic", and is a lot more forgiving, it absorbs a lot more abuse than a typical steel rod would, put under the same situation. I know a few people that have aluminum rodded engines that are driven on the street quite often, not saying that I would recommend that, but they have not seen a problem yet, obviously over time, problems will arise though.

BTW- Those Mechart rods look amazing. Now I understand why they are so rare. Im assuming the piston and piston pin are Mechart, as well?

 

[IJ.]

Al work hardens then fails catastrophically...

Nope dunno what brand but I'm pretty sure Mechart never made pistons.

 

[bigboost7m]

Well, thats my story, and I am sticking to it.:icon_bigg

 

[IJ.]

And in the end it's your motor and $$$ so that's all that matters

 

[suprabad]

Crower in current motor...going with Pauter's on the one I'm building now.

What made you want to abandon the Crower's? Were they the Crower "pro series" 4340 steel billet rods?

I know the Pauter's are well respected around here, but I have had great luck w/ Crower in other applications, so they came right to mind when I first considered upgrading the con-rods.

Aluminum isn't going to work for me since I drive my car on the street and durability trumps rotating mass for me, plus considering the somewhat low rev potential of the 7M, I think the savings in terms of rotating weight would be not that great when compared to the fragility of aluminum.

Also, I'm planning on running Nos at the strip so that's the reason for my concern about getting as tough as rods as I can realistically lay my hands on.

 

[jdub]

What made you want to abandon the Crower's? Were they the Crower "pro series" 4340 steel billet rods?

I know the Pauter's are well respected around here, but I have had great luck w/ Crower in other applications, so they came right to mind when I first considered upgrading the con-rods.

Yes, they are the Crower billet rods...they're fine and served well....I plan on keeping them

Pauter is a bit better quality IMO and offers a couple custom oiling options that peaked my interest. Grooves on the top, big end that spray oil up to the cylinder walls and underside of the piston. EDM is available to provide forced oiling to the piston pin. I did order the grooving, but not EDM. The CP pistons I'm using have double forced pin oilers and supply plenty of oil to the wrist pin.

http://www.pauter.com/oiling.htm

FYI:

E4340 vacuum melt chrome moly forging – CNC machined
Heat-treated to Rockwell C36; full coverage shotpeened; end-to-end balanced in sets.
Each rod comes standard with ARP 2000 bolts rated at 220,000 psi tensile strength.
Aluminum-bronze wrist pin bushings