morganson's COP S-Type setup

Rollus

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Jun 2, 2011
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Thank you,

I was think about at least 24V because that's what COP expect (24/2 because of serial). But then, the ignitor should only see something like 12V I think, I have to check internal schematic and parts.
 

Rollus

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Jun 2, 2011
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Tnx. I will stop asking in the other thread (about dual igniter setup) because I'm going single afor the moment..

Actually, without amplifier every single coil see 6 Vdc if I understand correctly. So a step up from 12 to 24Vdc would give 12Vdc to the coils.

I will run E85, which is harder to ignite than unleaded. I may probably try some unreasonable voltage if Mustang guys feel 36Vdc per coil is OK :p
Yep, I know 19Vdc suits you, even 12V, since your CPS wiring is fine.
 

morganson

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Jan 19, 2012
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Sure, for 300 bucks. I mean its tried and true....this one is $23.
If we could find the operating voltage of the hks dli i bet i could find one that worked the same. 300 for something that doesnt give you a major difference seems a bit much to me. Ive been testing these for months now with no issue and noticable starting, running, and rev improvements. (Made apparent during the test today.) But i dont want to tell you what to run on your car. Im just handing out the info i have and my opinion. I plan on getting this thing on the dyno to get some numbers but i cant say ehen that will happen.

Also i want to put up that i have tested without the 19v box @ 16psi and had no breakup whatsoever. So the system works without extra supporting mods.
 

morganson

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Jan 19, 2012
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Also rollus, pay attention to the amp output as well. Stock is 6amp and im running 10 amps right now. I dont recomend going to far past 24v either as i can only say that mustangs boxes are running 36v.
 

Rollus

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Jun 2, 2011
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I'm not sure you understood my french joke or followed the link about MSD HKS Twin Power DLI: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221595930795..

The fact is it is this product: DC/DC 12V to 48V 3.5A 168W
That makes 24V per coils.

I will look at the grimreaper thread about the ignitor, to understand the way igniter works (current limiting strategy)
 

morganson

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It is the voltage feed for the coils directly. You would run a new wire directly to the 12v pin on the coil harness. The original actually piggybacks off the 12v for the ignitor. (Black/orange)
I just set up a new relay to pass voltage through the box and to the coils.
 

supraguy@aol

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Dec 30, 2005
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I get half of what youre saying. The original 12v feed is powering a relay, so that the stepup box gets input straight from the battery??

Maybe you'll get bored and post a diagram?
 

Rollus

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And what about this instead of the voltage step up box?

[video=youtube;PspgwbkcSeM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PspgwbkcSeM[/video]
 

morganson

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Seems uncontrolled. Wicked but too much very interested in it though. 24v box came in. Got it plugged in and running noted throttle response and idle stability. No decline in afr reading so system is controlling well. Have not been able to test under load due to days of rain. Gonna keep it posted.
 

Rollus

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Jun 2, 2011
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Ok, so you went with 12V per plug route...

I may go more, but I'm amazed about the inline amplifier, but...
It must be a capacitor, so voltage increase, spark is longer, but probably no added power.

18V to 24V per plug may be the route to go, I just want to open my ignitor to see the transistor used and check voltage compatibility