i can let off the clutch in first and give it NO gas....and the car doesn't shut off, stumbles a little but keeps running. when i take off it takes a few seconds before it seems like it kicks in. what do you all think?
Master, Slave, Clutch Or Tranny??
- Thread starter daddycat31
- Start date
Check the hydraulics. Bleed them really good. If the master is delivering pressure to the slave, and slave is actuating and moving the fork properly, better rip out the transmission and check the clutch.
yeah possibly a bad clutch, but you should be able to ease the clutch out in 1st with no gas and the car should start to roll. Now if you can in 3rd, then yes deffinitly a slipping clutch.
It could very well be a fuel / tuning issue also. You are more likely to notice clutch slippage issues in 3rd or high when there is more load being applied to the clutch.
Best test for a clutch slippage problem in most rear wheel drive 5speed cars is a hard throttle run in 4th gear from about 2500 to 4000 or 4500 RPM's. Being that 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio, the Tach and speedo neddles should increase at the same rate (i.e. they should follow eachother in sync). If the tach neddle increases faster then the speedo, then the clutch is slipping. The reason for doing it in the RPM range listed above is because most engine produce the most torque in that range and therefore slippage is most likely to accure in that area.
It could very well be a fuel / tuning issue also. You are more likely to notice clutch slippage issues in 3rd or high when there is more load being applied to the clutch.
Best test for a clutch slippage problem in most rear wheel drive 5speed cars is a hard throttle run in 4th gear from about 2500 to 4000 or 4500 RPM's. Being that 4th gear is a 1:1 ratio, the Tach and speedo neddles should increase at the same rate (i.e. they should follow eachother in sync). If the tach neddle increases faster then the speedo, then the clutch is slipping. The reason for doing it in the RPM range listed above is because most engine produce the most torque in that range and therefore slippage is most likely to accure in that area.
thanks guys...gonna give all that a try....except pulling the tranny. i don't have the right accomadations for that (plus i've never done it before).
i'm having trouble figuring out what exactly is wrong with my clutch. it has pressure, but it seems the friction point/engage point has dropped to about when it's almost to the floor. there's no fluid leaking. i'm thinking it might be the master cylinder, but there is no leaking. the clutch will only engage when the pedal is almost to the floor. any help guys?
My first guess would be pedal push-rod adjustment. My second guess would be the master cylinder also. You dont have to have a leak to have a bad master cylinder. An internal bypass within the MC will cause that problem. The MC piston has a series of holes drilled through it and there is a disk/washer in front of it that is soppost to seal the holes when you step on the pedal. If it is not sealing completely then you wont build line pressure at all or instantly as it should.