Location for nitrous

[gilberjj]

Did you nitrous guys (and gals) inject the nitrous into the intercooler piping, or the manifold. I know piping would be a lot easier. But I was wondering if you could put it in place of the cold start injector (since mine doesn't work anyways). Plus, you wouldn't have to pull the nitrous off with the intercooler piping EVERYTIME you want to work on your car.

Also, I am not running this set-up, but I most likely will be soon.
60-1 ct
map-ecu
walbro
act xtreme clutch
440's

could I use a 100 shot on 110 octane? Most guys use 75 shots without a standalone, but how is running a 100 shot (or 500 shot for that matter) any different then running a bigger turbo and more boost?

 

[Zumtizzle]

I'm going to have mine purge into the manifold from the bottom for stealthyness. :evil2:

 

[suprarich]

If a wet nozzle kit, then run it 4-6 inches before the throttle body in the intercooler piping. A direct port you would run in the manifold runners just before the head. The lines unhook from the nozzle so easy, that working on the car, and having to un-hook the nitrous, is nothing.

 

[upgradedsupra]

If a wet nozzle kit, then run it 4-6 inches before the throttle body in the intercooler piping. A direct port you would run in the manifold runners just before the head. The lines unhook from the nozzle so easy, that working on the car, and having to un-hook the nitrous, is nothing.

I drill and tapped mine in the TB. (single fogger) I was thinking that it would be easy for direct port but I wanted mine UNDER the intake which is why I haven't done it. Getting at the nozzles would be a bitch!

Duane

 

[suprakid24]

mines just a little in front of the throttle body, haven't used it at the track yet though

 

[need new tires]

umm you might want to swap in some 550's. that 60-1 has to be close to fuel cut already.

 

[gilberjj]

no fuel cut on a map-ecu

 

[bountykilla0118]

injectors have no role in fuel cut lol

 

[gilberjj]

rich, what is the reasoning to running it 4-6" before the tb? Even distribution among the runners im guessing?????
btw, this mood thing makes me feel like im reading a magazine aimed at middle school girls. I refuse to participate.

 

[suprarich]

yes, that is one reason. Another is that there is less likely to be a nitrous backfire if the nozzle is on the outside of the throttle body. Another reason is there is more even cooling of the in-coming air.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

yes, that is one reason. Another is that there is less likely to be a nitrous backfire if the nozzle is on the outside of the throttle body. Another reason is there is more even cooling of the in-coming air.

Doesn't it also have to do with the proper atomization of the nitrous and fuel molecules before they enter the intake manifold? Thats the reason I always heard.

 

[gilberjj]

Doesn't it also have to do with the proper atomization of the nitrous and fuel molecules before they enter the intake manifold? Thats the reason I always heard.

considering the "big boys" run 300-500 shots just outside the intake ports with multi point wet nitrous, I doubt atomization is the reason.

 

[themadhatter]

seems to me that a wet setup would work very nicely on our stock 7m intake manifold because the design(center mounted throttle body) already promots even distribustion
Am I wrong?

 

[queenskid926]

Anyone knows how much juice a stock ge or gte can run safely? 50shot? 75shot? 100?...

 

[gilberjj]

as far as I know, horsepower is horsepower. whether it comes from a turbo, or a bottle. As long as you have timing being pulled and a/f ratios are safe, put all the nitrous you want into the engine. Just make sure it's a safe amount for the gas you are running! Roughly, 16-18psi is all you want to run on a strong running stock motor (with a metal head gasket). Rule of thumb is about 10 whp per psi, so if you're running 10 psi, throw in a 75 on pump gas and it would be ROUGHLY equal to 17.5 psi. This is very rough, but it'll give you an idea of what you have to work with. You can run more nitrous than boost because nitrous is very cold, and it will actually deter against detonation.

 

[gofastgeorge]

suprarich,
Any problems with cylinders 3 & 4 getting more nitrous than 1 & 6 ?
I have been wanting to try nitrous, but didn't want to get into the 6 nozzel & line hassel, but I didn't think a single on top would distribute very well.......

 

[ZFast300Z]

You can run more nitrous than boost because nitrous is very cold, and it will actually deter against detonation.

I dont know if I would be saying that you can run more nitrous then boost. Yes nitrous is cold er then the pressurized air being forced into the cylinder. The problem with nitrous is that it changes the way peak cylinder pressure in the cylinder is achieved. N20 stays in its chemical state until roughly 600 degree cylinder temperatures are achieved. As combustion starts your not burning the oxygen in the N2O molecule, your burning the rest of the oxygen in the cylinder (think of it as a super rich mixture). Once the proper temperature is achieved you have an abundance of O2 and the mixture starts to burn more rapidly and raises the cylinder to peak pressure faster. Thats why you retard the ignition timing slightly. That way the crank has time to rotate to the optimum position for peak cylinder pressure. 300 horsepower worth of compressed air (or at the 10whp per psi, 30psi boost) is significantly easier on rotating components then a 300 shot of nitrous.

I NEVER recommend running more then a 75 shot with a single fogger nozzle. Above that amount your just filling the intake manifold/throttle body/IC pipes with way to much raw fuel for me to feel safe. Not to mention you also have problems with distribution and the fuel and nitrous atomizing properly when you start going to larger shots.

 

[gilberjj]

I dont know if I would be saying that you can run more nitrous then boost. Yes nitrous is cold er then the pressurized air being forced into the cylinder. The problem with nitrous is that it changes the way peak cylinder pressure in the cylinder is achieved. N20 stays in its chemical state until roughly 600 degree cylinder temperatures are achieved. As combustion starts your not burning the oxygen in the N2O molecule, your burning the rest of the oxygen in the cylinder (think of it as a super rich mixture). Once the proper temperature is achieved you have an abundance of O2 and the mixture starts to burn more rapidly and raises the cylinder to peak pressure faster. Thats why you retard the ignition timing slightly. That way the crank has time to rotate to the optimum position for peak cylinder pressure. 300 horsepower worth of compressed air (or at the 10whp per psi, 30psi boost) is significantly easier on rotating components then a 300 shot of nitrous.

I NEVER recommend running more then a 75 shot with a single fogger nozzle. Above that amount your just filling the intake manifold/throttle body/IC pipes with way to much raw fuel for me to feel safe. Not to mention you also have problems with distribution and the fuel and nitrous atomizing properly when you start going to larger shots.

Sounds like you know a lot more about it than me. What I was getting at was....
With a turbo car, nitrous has dual benefits because of its cooling factor, plus adding power. A 75 shot of nitrous will most likely give you more then 75 hp on a turbo car. From my research, I understood that you can run a combination of nitrous and boost and safely achieve more hp then running either by itself.
I myself would rather run 25 psi and water/meth.

 

[super.secret.supra.club]

someone in here has it quoted, i forget who though....

"nitrous is like a girl with STD's, you want to hit it but your afraid of the consiquences."

something like that. just be sure that after you hook it up, get someone to physically look and check over it. we dont to see another Mk III death here.

ed.d.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Thats why you retard the ignition timing slightly. That way the crank has time to rotate to the optimum position for peak cylinder pressure.

This doesn't make sense to me.

Retarded ignition timing is waiting until LATER to set off the spark. Therefore there is LESS time for the crank to rotate into optimum position after ignition.

This suggests to me that the N2O is starting to act sooner, causing cylinder pressures to raise faster than they would otherwise do so.