Jaguar_5's 87 Turbo Build

[Jaguar_5]

It's finally running!!!!

My machinist has finished his job, so i figured maybe it's time to start up a build thread!

I got my first supra almost 2 years ago, a 87 N/A, it has been my daily driver since, it has a messed up rear quarter panel though... it would need at least $2k in body work, so i figured i need to pick up another supra!

Meet the 87 Turbo! I picked her up for $700, as a car that doesnt really run, with lots of cranking and throttle it eventually started up, and as long as i held it above 2k rpm, stayed running, lol. Under load i had to keep it above 3000, or even if i floored it there would be no throttle response, and the engine wanted to bog down and die.

Since then, i have pulled the engine, i'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking :icon_razz

Current To-Do list to get it running!
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1048333&postcount=409

Current Modifications List Updated 8/28/08
Engine:
All New hoses, seals, bolts and hundreds of other new Toyota parts (not exclusive to engine)
Wiseco Forged Pistons & Wiseco Rings
ACL bearings
Fully balanced rotating assembly
Prepped stock rods & crank
ARP Main Studs
ARP Rod bolts
ARP Headstuds
Cometic 1.8mm MHG
Driftmotion large Exhaust stud upgrade
Walbro 255
Bic Divorced Downpipe
Bic Test Pipe
Cooleeze 3" Catback
Magnaflow 3" straight through muffler
Bic Semi-Solid mounts
LIPP Stainless Steel Spark Plug Valley Cover
Stainless allen head valve cover hardware

Oiling system:
ARZ Oil supply hardline
Toyota pump spec'd out and shimmed 5.5mm
B&M Supercooler, 70274
Permacool Dual oil filter mount, 3/4-16 thread
Canton 90* Billet oil filter adapter
Mocal 180* Thermostat, -10 fittings
Aeroquip -10 socketless hose
Mocal -10 hose ends, straight and 90*
Mocal 1/2" NPT to -10 adaptors
Aeroquip -10 Tee (plus other adaptors for oil press and temp sensors)
Trasko Bypass filter

Forced Induction
Stock CT26 for Break-in
Ceramic coated oil lines
Flowed & Cleaned stock 440cc Injectors
Aeromotive AFPR Kit
ETS Intercooler kit, with black powdercoated charge pipes, and black couplers
Tial (knockoff) BOV

Driveline / Suspension:
RPS Cyn-R-G Flywheel
ARP Flywheel bolts
ACT 6 Puck sprung clutch
New Toyota bearings, shims, spring washers, p.p. bolts
Aisin pressure plate
Goodridge SS Brake lines
OPParts Rotors
PBR XBG Semi-Metallic pads
New Aisin clutch master & slave cylinders

Electronics:
MAFT Pro with Speed Density, and boost control
Innovate LC-1 Wideband
Lotek 2 gauge A-Pillar pod
Prosport Peak/Hold Oil Pressure gauge
Prosport Peak/Hold Oil Temperature gauge
Prosport Peak/Hold Boost gauge

Body:
Last on the list, this is my last priority! Function before form!
The car is slowly going through a color change from maroon to Black cherry Metallic (206)
The engine bay has been stripped, prepped, and painted
The hatch and hood have been stripped, prepped, and painted

 

[Jaguar_5]

And some more...

These 2 cylinders were leaking into eachother, infact the headgasket was blown between cylinder 2&3, and 4&5

 

[Jaguar_5]

And a couple of new parts pictures, even though this cylinder head was sent back for a refund due to being milled down too far, and i'm not using the headgasket or any of the paper gaskets in that set lol

Once i pick up my block and head on monday from my machinist, i'll show pics of my fully balanced and decked block, with ARP main studs and rod bolts, planning on Cometic headgasket, arp headstuds, and now or later: MAFT Pro, DDP, wideband, all the standards!

 

[Jaguar_5]

Finally!!!
New parts!!!

My machinists work:
Magniflux rods, magnetic particle inspect crank, check and polish crank, Degrease (hot tank) and inspect block, magnetic particle inspect block, recondition the rods, remove ridge & hone, align hone block, balance everything, and surface the block. Also got a newly rebuilt head from portland with more meat on it than my original head had :icon_razz

 

[Jaguar_5]

A couple more pictures...

Forgot to add this was balanced with ARP hardware (mains & rods)

 

[Big Wang Bandit]

Lookin good. I wanna see this one done!

 

[Jaguar_5]

Me too! But it'll honestly be a while, still need to work my ass off for money for bearings, rings, headgasket (cometic), headstuds, etc etc

My machinist did a great job (in my amateur opinion), but he forgot to deck the block with the front cover attached, he measured the difference and is gonna deck it today or tomorrow

 

[BosoMKII]

Rad. Clean engine parts make me happy. Have fun putting it all together!

 

[Jaguar_5]

Thanks

So i noticed all my paint pen markings are obviously gone, other than the pin being in each cylinder, none of the pistons, or rods are numbered.

Everything was mic'd & balanced, and the bores were all honed, so it shouldn't matter anymore, right?

So .008 was taken off the head, and deck, looks like i'm goin for a 1.7mm cometic!

According to HPF.. theres only a 1.65mm, or 1.8mm.. i have a feeling he might not have taken into account for possibly previous work on the deck.. i'm leaning towards the 1.8

 

[Jaguar_5]

Picked up my front plate today, time to start ordering parts!
First items ordered are bigaarons exhaust stud upgrade kit, and i have a 2 gauge lotek pillar pod on the way!

The cylinder head is on the very bottom of the limit as far as the valve shim clearances go, my machinist told me not to worry, as it'll loosen a couple thousandths once i run it...

What are the best rings to get? Am i limited to toyota rings since i'm using stock pistons? On the EPC, it lists a bunch of part #'s for rings.. if i have to get them all thats pretty pricey...

And what about bearings? Should i go with Clevite 77's (preferred, cheaper lol) or toyota's?

I'm currently throwing together a list of toyota part #'s and the quantity i'll need, So far i have piston snap rings, crank pulley bolt, head alignment pins, all the freeze plugs, a couple orings...

 

[Jaguar_5]

Hmmm no comments?

Maybe some pictures will spark the discussion!

Shiny clean painted parts!!! The camera really doesnt do the glossy black justice, it looks fantastic! I give myself a pat on the back for this one lol (am i allowd to do that?)

In real life the 3000 is much clearer, the paint is quite glossy!

 

[IJ.]

I went with the 77's this time!
(may need some custom selection and fitting but a very advanced design of bearing)

 

[Jaguar_5]

Cool, may be abit above my head though... all i know as far as bearing size is my machinist told me standard sizes... Don't really want to order clevites, install them, plasti-gauge, and get bad clearances!

 

[IJ.]

The machinist would need the bearings in hand then grind the crank to suit not the other way around Jag!

 

[Jaguar_5]

Crap... i had a feeling i'd do something stupid like this!
So will i be ok with ordering standard toyota bearings? Or will i need to hand them & the crank back to my machinist? If so i'll go with the clevites, otherwise if toyotas will save me a trip, i'll dish out the extra $.. will they last to 450-500 hp? (long-run goal)

Thanks for the lightning fast expert insight IJ

 

[Jaguar_5]

So looking over this page in the tsrm:
http://cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_72.html

And i'm really struggling with ordering bearings, and am starting to question my machinist about just telling me to order standard bearings... even though there are 5 different sizes, my numbers on my block are inconsistant, and the numbers on my crank are in the opposite order of the TSRM diagram :aigo:

It looks like all my bearings say STD 1165...

Am i missing something here? Don't want to order bearings, then plastigauge and find out my clearances are wrong

 

[IJ.]

Jag: The select fit bearing sizes on the block are to allow for production tolerances, The blocks will be machine bang bang bang one after another and eventually the sizes will shift during a run.

They send the block into the check room where a guy will measure each one then stamp it and send it off for assembly where they can look at the numbers grab the correct bearings and bolt it together without checking further.

In the real world once a motors been run and heat cycled the block can shift a fraction so personally unless I'd micced up the tunnel and confirmed it's dead on the factory sizing I'd do it the way I said in my last post.

You buy the new bearings after confiming what size the crank is now then hand these to the machinst he'll install them in the block torque the caps down then micc them up grind the crank to suit and mark each shell where it lives and return it to you for assembly.

 

[Jaguar_5]

Damn... thats crappy, kinda lame i didnt think ahead on this one, i was hoping my machinist would know what needed to be done, he's built 7m's before...
Kinda lame having to take the block back to the machine shop again! Hopefully the cost to mic everything and grind the crank for 77's will be the same as what i'll save over toyo bearing prices!

This is a very crucial part of the engine though, so i can't mess up on these tolerances!

 

[Xistant]

nice work there bud!! shame really big shame thats what a 7m requires to go a treat!!

 

[IJ.]

Same applies to any motor.......:nono: