I'm getting my head flowed. Have a question.

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

I'm getting my head flowed this Monday. What is our stock lift?

How much of a lift should I have them test it? Where do they normally begin.... .100 lift? Initially I was thinking 9.5mm cause I'm not planning on going over that. I can't afford to do the shimless bucket conversion just yet. Then I was thinking to go ahead and let them flow it up to .500 (12.7mm) lift just for the hell of it. Should I let them flow it up to that lift?

I'm also getting a valve job to make sure all valves are seating good. Clean up, and have them retap the exhaust studs. I'm planning on doing the 7/16th upgrade I've been hearing about. And getting the surface milled to possibly run a MHG.

Wish me luck. I'll post the numbers as soon as I get them back.

 

[jdub]

Don't recall the stock lift on the cams. Flow it where you plan on running it...if you're getting cams, 9mm is about max without doing more extensive mods on the head. Anything more is a waste. And, if you're going to do this, consider oversize valves...you'll need a 3 angle valve job (min), new seals, possibily new guides.

A MHG is going to be necessary...deck to a 30RA and you'll be fine.

The exhaust studs should be helicoiled at minimum IMO...if you want to go to the larger studs, that is a personal choice.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

I've heard of people going 1mm OS valves, but where can I get the valves? I'm not looking to spend a fortune on this head. What would be my options without breaking the bank.

 

[suprageezer]

Manley Makes Stainless Steel valves for our Supras, you can download the full catalog at the link below and I posted a screen capture of the Manley Toyota Valves page. The go to Summit Racing type in the valve Number for pricing.

http://www.manleyperformance.com/catalog.html

 

[jdub]

BC also makes .5mm oversize. What I'm getting at is if you spend the $$$ to port, polish, and flow the head...do it right. You don't *have to* go with oversize valves, but you do need to think about what the objective is before you spend your hard earned $$$.

You'll still need to do a 3 angle valve job (min), new seals, possibily new guides. Another option is using Comp Cam springs...inexpensive (~$75), effective upgrade.

 

[Clifton]

Measure a lobe to get the lift.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

BC also makes .5mm oversize. What I'm getting at is if you spend the $$$ to port, polish, and flow the head...do it right. You don't *have to* go with oversize valves, but you do need to think about what the objective is before you spend your hard earned $$$.

You'll still need to do a 3 angle valve job (min), new seals, possibily new guides. Another option is using Comp Cam springs...inexpensive (~$75), effective upgrade.

I bought this head years ago from the same machine shop that I have it at. They hand ported and polished it, 3angle valve job and all. I only ran the head for a couple of months before my engine went south. I mainly want just want to flow it ($50) so I can get some regrinds done from schneider cams. My stock cams are scratched up pretty good on the journals. I'm getting new seals put in, and make sure all valves seat good too.

Manley valves:

Intake set - $215.69
Exhaust set - $215.69 Prices are from summitracing.com

That's not including labor, so that's not an option for me.
If I do go with upgraded cams then I'll definately get those Comp Cam springs.

 

[IJ.]

8.3mm sticks in my head for some reason on the stock lift..... (might be wrong I'm old)

Flowing a head is usually done as a before and after comparison to see if the modifications in between have given the desired results.

Just flowing a head with no basis for comparison is a bit dumb.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

8.3mm sticks in my head for some reason on the stock lift..... (might be wrong I'm old)

Flowing a head is usually done as a before and after comparison to see if the modifications in between have given the desired results.

Just flowing a head with no basis for comparison is a bit dumb.

I didn't own this head when it had stock ports. I bought it when it was in their case collecting dust. I thought it was a good deal at the time so I got it. I understand why you would flow a head for comparison purposes. I thought that I'd get some real numbers so when I contact Schneider about getting some regrinds done that they could recommend the cams with numbers I have.

Does it matter what a force inducted head flows to get cams, or do you just want to go big? I know on n/a engines you don't just wanna go big. They pick cams according to what the head flows. Do we not do the same?

 

[IJ.]

Unless you're building a class legal race car Cam selection for a forced induction motor isn't nearly as critical as for an NA.

Just look at how much power people make on stock cams, just about anything you select is going to flow more what you need to do is choose cams that will put the power band where you want it to be.

This needs to take the entire package into account though, head flow is just one component.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

So you're saying skip the flow, and just order one of the two popular cams sizes are available to us. I can do that.

 

[IJ.]

If you're really curious you can borrow a head with the same casting number and get a before and after flow but personally the Flow bench is just a tool much like a dyno to see a difference while modding.

Are you Manual or Auto?

Diff ratio?

Intended use for the car?

Stock ECU/Rpm limit?

All need to be considered when picking Cams.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Manual

3.73 I believe

Some drag racing.

Stock ECU, but I do have a MAP ECU I plan on running.

*Don't laugh* garrett T04e 57trim with .69 on center hotside... for now.

I just want to make the most with what little I have right now. My stock cams are scratched up pretty good on the journals. I was looking into buying some from Autozone, but found out that regrinds are about the same in cost. That's why I'm considering going with the regrinds. Which cam profile do you think would benefit me right now?

 

[IJ.]

272's are great midrange to top end and coupled with a manual would work quite well considering you're restricted by the Small turbo and stock rpm limit.

I'm using some hard face welded cams that are .351"/9mm lift 280 degrees duration 226 @ 50thou and have used them with a manual and an auto.

Given a big enough Turbo they make good power to 8000 so will allow room to grow later.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Would 272's work well with bigger turbos too? Can I just slap them on centering them with the toyota specs, or would I have to get adjustable cam gears to get full use out of them?

 

[Doward]

Ian, you'd really recommend the 272s? Assuming a 3" exhaust with that .69 a/r T4, I'd go BC264s. Maximize that midrange before the turbo chokes up top.

Just my .02

 

[IJ.]

The BC 272's are very close to the grind I'm using and I assume they'd behave much the same with a larger turbo/increased rpm limit.

NO you can't just "slap" anything on and expect it to work correctly.

Adjustable cam pullies serve a purpose here in they allow you to degree the Cams to the precise position the Cam timing card allocates as true 0, anything else is just a guess and while it may or may not work you really need to approach this carefully and methodically if you're going to drop the $$$.

Once you have dialed the Cams in you can then play with timing and see what differences it makes knowing you have a baseline to return to if it goes tits up.

Each and every motor is slightly different.

Dow: I'm leaving room to grow as he's indicated he wants to go further in the future.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Thanks Ian for the info.

 

[IJ.]

No probs at all welcome

If you were going to stay with this turbo/combination Doward is 100% correct the 264's would be the better choice.

 

[Doward]

Ah, I missed he was wanting to go bigger later! Good catch