how to helicoil

[mk3concepts]

like a lot of people on here the exhuast side studs suck like hell..i am looking to purchase the driftmotion stud/helicoil kit..but i have never done this before..yes ive searched and have an idea on how to helicoil..but not clearly..can some one post on how to helicoil??

-thanks

 

[Shytheed Dumas]

I did my own first helicoil just a few weeks ago on my thermostat housing. I found a good walk through with pics by doing a quick google search, but the basics are this:

1. Using EXACTLY the specified drill bit you will carefully bore out the problem hole - go in straight, and go deep enough to take the threads of the bolt that will be used! (I ended up just a little shallow and had to grind a mm or two off the end of the bolt :icon_conf )

2. Using the tap, turn in a few threads and back most of the way out to clean the filings and keep from binding the tap up.

3. Continue to tap the hole, taking time to back it out a little once in a while and keep things clean.

4. You should have a tool that will allow you to turn the coil by the 'tang', which will enter your freshly tapped hole first. Turn the coil until it just stops.

5. Using the tang tool, you will now break the tang off.

6. Remove the tang. This is a PITA, but can be done with a needle nosed pliars and/or magnet.

7. Enjoy your fresh, strong threads.

 

[suprageezer]

AND DON'T forget to use copius amouts of Tapping Fluid. One other thing, I've always used Loctite on my heli-coils, so I just emailed Loctite to find what they recomend these days for S.S. exhaust studs in aluminum heads, and using anti-seize.

 

[suprabad]

I have had some trouble in the past with getting the heli coil all the way in, inspite of using thread tap oil.

The problem is, sometimes the heli-coil offers too much resistance going in and the little coil installer tool pushes past the tang, thereby ending the coils forward progress. I usually yank the heli-coil out and start again.

Anybody else experience this problem? Any suggestions?

 

[blackturbona]

practice once or twice on a peice of lets say 1/4 inch steel. u dont want to break the tap then ur in worse than u started

 

[suprageezer]

Bad, the loctite acts as a lube as its going in, especially if they are stainless coils. Loctite, emailed me back and said I should have an answer by tuesday on which loctite is best suited for what we do.

 

[mk3concepts]

sick thanks dudes

 

[IJ.]

You need to hold pressure on the Coil so it can't seperate and skip a groove as it screws into the tapped hole, the last coil end is what prevents the Coil unscrewing with the bolt but Loctite can't hurt.

You can also buy different length Coils for deep threads (better than fitting 2 coils per hole)

 

[mk3concepts]

soo im guessing with the little tab thing that sticks out at the end..you just get like needle nose pliers and turn the helicoil inside the thread with that?

 

[IJ.]

The kit comes with a driver and a tool to snap off the drive lug.

 

[pb92supraturbo]

Time-sert's work very well also. I've used helicoil kits for years and now that I've tried a Time-sert, I prefer them over helicoil. I had a few exhaust studs on my Celica that were helicoiled fail. I've since repaired with a time-sert and they are holding with no further issues.

 

[Poodles]

not the set I had IJ...

I just used a punch with a hammer...

I used BOTH kits that Aaron makes as my head was badly annealed and the stock size pulled right out(had to modify the drillbit to use it in the 90 degree drill bit, had to cut the drill bit in half and resharpen the end with a Drill Doctor)

The stock sized helicoil has a tool to prewind the helicoil, and is a major PITA to use... the upgraded size didn't and was easier to use.

Get everything out of the way, and MAKE SURE TO BLOCK ANY HOLES THAT THE SHAVINGS CAN GET INTO. This is critical. You don't want them in the IC pipes, oil pan, or in the exhaust ports...

You drill until it bottoms out (it will be obvious, trust me), blow it out with compressed air.

Tap it with the cutting fluid (the fluid is pretty head, I just dipped the tap into it and went to town, never had to back it out, could do it in one pass in my head...) The best way to clean the shavings and cuting fluid off is to use compressed air, and make sure the holes are clean!

Then screw the installation tool into the helicoil, but loctite on the helicoil, and insert it. Do NOT bottom it out or you won't be able to break the tang off. It says something like a full turn under the edge of the hole. Take q-tips with paint thinner and clean out the helicoil to get the excess loctite out.

Stick the tool in the hole, tap it with the hammer, use a magnet to pull out the tang.

Allow the loctite to set up and install everything back together (making sure to use antiseize)

 

[mk3concepts]

ok so after putting the helicoil in..let it stick out just a tiny bit..so you can take the "tang" off..seems easy enough

 

[isnms]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3998

Also, here is a good write up by CJ
http://cjsupra.kendra.com/Helicoil.html

 

[IJ.]

ok so after putting the helicoil in..let it stick out just a tiny bit..so you can take the "tang" off..seems easy enough

The "tang" end goes in first.

 

[suprageezer]

Heres what I got back from Loctite. I think she's saying don't use nickel anti-seize until the loctite dries.

Rick,

Thank you for your inquiry. A good product to lock your helicoil into the
exhaust manifold is retaining compound 620. This product is available from
our industrial distributors, and is good to 450F. I would not use the
anti-seize within the same threads. Lock the helicoil in, allow it to cure,
then I assume you are going to put the anti-seize on the male threads going
into that joint? Please feel free to contact met to discuss in further
detail.

In addition to the wide range of adhesives and sealants offered by Henkel
Industrial we also offer product training to our valued customers. Give me
a call or email me back and I'll assist you with the details. Remove the
doubts and confirm that you are maximizing the benefits of using our
products and equipment.


Henkel Loctite recommends that you test all new adhesive applications under
simulated or actual end use conditions to ensure the adhesive meets or
exceeds all expectations. Since assembly conditions may be critical to
adhesive performance, it is recommended that testing be performed on
specimens assembled under simulated or actual product conditions.

Very best regards,

Cathy Scoville
Laboratory Services Technician/TIS Representative
Henkel Loctite Corporation
North American Engineering Center
1001 Trout Brook Crossing
Rocky Hill, CT 06067
Ph: +1 860 571 5100, x3116

 

[mk3concepts]

hey how did you guys get that last stud in the end??? next to the fire wall..i used a right angle drill for the others but it wouldnt fit at the end cause the bit was too long as well as the tap..any suggestions?

 

[Tun_x]

This game sucks!!

 

[Poodles]

I shortened the drillbit...

tapping tool had plenty of room though...

 

[Kckazdude]

hey how did you guys get that last stud in the end??? next to the fire wall..i used a right angle drill for the others but it wouldnt fit at the end cause the bit was too long as well as the tap..any suggestions?

Blood, sweat, curse. Rinse and repeat as needed. To give you a slight amount of room, loosen the trans mount and raise the tranny. It doesnt give you much but just enough to let my modified tap go in straight.