im havin a problem wen i start to hit boost it seems like the spark blows out.ive tried new plugs different gaps everything,im lost.could it be the igniter or should i start looking elsewhere? thanks walter
how do you know if igniter is bad?
- Thread starter suprawalt
- Start date
There are some DVOM checks for the igniter. I think you should skip it, and test this way.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=5
How about you list some mods, and gap you set it at, etc.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=5
How about you list some mods, and gap you set it at, etc.
Also there is a code for when the igniter does not fire. 14 I believe. But that is for non firing, not a weak spark.
What mods and gap?
What mods and gap?
.028 gap, turbonetics 60-1,bc 264 cams,.020 wiscoe pistons, aem ems,gm boost solenoid,aem map sensor,550cc injectersNick M;1037064 said:
i don't know about you guys, but i've never heard of an ignitor going bad. To my understanding of my time here at supramania, they are pretty much bullet proof. There's a first for everything i guess though? I personally would look elsewhere, like the coil packs.
IwantMKIII;1037732 said:
It isn't common, but it happens. If you notice the case, it is built as a heat sink. It gets hot under the hood, and the electronics don't like a lot of heat.
Nick M;1037949 said:
thats exactly what happens it seems to run fine when cooler temps. when it gets hot it starts cutting out badly above 4500 rpm. ill be tryin a new igniter soon and we'll see if that works.
well, you engine just won't work if it goes bad...A few years back I was driving my honda around, without an warning, the motor just dies. It cranks and cranks but no fire
I'm currently dealing with the same problem, I try not to post much on here unless I am really stumped.
- I had bkr7e plugs gapped at .032, i figured it was spark blowout or the plugs were fouling, so i changed the plugs with some autolite 3923 gapped at .028. no difference. around 4000ish rpm while at wot, it misses/sputters.
- I checked ignition timing, set at 10deg with check connector jumped, 12 with connector not jumped.
- Recently rebuilt cps sensor because of an oil leak, but this didn't start right after that was replaced.
- air/fuel ratios while at wot are ~11.5:1
Not sure if this is related but what voltage are you guys getting at idle from your tps? I recently tried adjusting mine because of a code 51, and mine is about .65v i'm thinking it's kind of low.
- I had bkr7e plugs gapped at .032, i figured it was spark blowout or the plugs were fouling, so i changed the plugs with some autolite 3923 gapped at .028. no difference. around 4000ish rpm while at wot, it misses/sputters.
- I checked ignition timing, set at 10deg with check connector jumped, 12 with connector not jumped.
- Recently rebuilt cps sensor because of an oil leak, but this didn't start right after that was replaced.
- air/fuel ratios while at wot are ~11.5:1
Not sure if this is related but what voltage are you guys getting at idle from your tps? I recently tried adjusting mine because of a code 51, and mine is about .65v i'm thinking it's kind of low.
^ Assuming you're talking about VTA that's actually high. High for IDL too. That said VTA should not be used to correct a code 51 because it's not the cause. And even if it were, 650mv wouldn't set the code.
I'm talking about when I'm looking at the tps data on my maftpro. before i adjusted it, it was about .88 so i adjusted it down to .65
supra90mkiii;1039427 said:
That would be VTA. Has nothing to do with causing code 51 but adjusting it could resolve 51 for other reasons, if that makes sense. Anyway 650mv is a bit high but still OK. The point is it's not low. Besides, your problem isn't TPS related.