Hose seeping from threading holes?!

[suprarx7nut]

So I recently noticed my upper radiator hose seems to be leaking from within the walls of the hose itself.

This pic is from my phone, so excuse the poor quality.

WTF is going on? How can the hose do this? The hose is being replaced asap, but what would cause this? I can't understand how the threading within the wall of tubing is the source of the leak. I can see bubbles form right after the car has been run.

Can anyone explain this scary phenomenon?

 

[CyFi6]

well i cant see any from the pic but il take your word for it. If the hose has a smal crack on the inside layer the water can just seap right into the threading and escape out the end, doesnt seem too impossible.

 

[jetjock]

Looks like classic ECD, the usual cause of weeping through a hose's reinforcement. It can effect all hoses in the engine at the point where they connect to metal fittings but upper radiator hose ECD is common:

http://tinyurl.com/yo48nb

http://tinyurl.com/dc37d

Replace the hose and coolant. If I were you I'd also stop using crappy worm drive clamps. Buy some new constant tension clamps from the dealer.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Wow, awesome jetjock!!!

An answer and some reading.

Clamps are being replaced and the hose is coming in on Thursday. Do I really need to change out the coolant? The coolant will be drained and refilled with new coolant anyways, but it seems odd for new coolant to be bad already. :dunno:

The current coolant is brand new. Maybe 3 weeks old. Toyota red. Will putting new coolant in really change anything? Is there anyway for me to avoid this problem in the future without Gate's special rubber?

Thanks for the info already provided JJ. I love this place.

 

[jetjock]

You be welcome. As you read ECD is the primary cause behind hose failure. Good job on inspecting and finding that. You might want to split that guy down the middle after it's off for a look-see.

You don't need to replace the coolant as the damage was likely done by the last stuff that was in there. You may want to check the coolant with a voltmeter though just in case you have an electrical problem.

Be careful of coolant. Don't go by time, go by testing. Use test strips and a voltmeter. My cooling system is spotless and has a filter to boot. The coolant comes out after several years looking as new as the day it went in but man, at times it tests out bad.

It's your call on using the Gates stuff but fwiw I have a car with a very convoluted cooling system (engine in back, radiator in front) with more hoses than you could shake a stick at and the engine is infamous for blowing up after a single overheat. I use Gates on that and thus far haven't seen ECD or any other sort of problem.

Toyota hoses are damn good though, as evidenced by my lower hose being original. As long as it checks out I'm keeping it in there. Living dangerously is good for the soul

 

[Solle]

good luck with it man =]

 

[IJ.]

Didn't realise it affected rubber as well there's something new I've learnt today thanks JJ (always thought it was just chemicals x age never suspected that current would be a component)

 

[cuel]

Interesting. Thanks for the links, JJ. Your other car wouldn't be a Fiero, by chance?

 

[CyFi6]

Replace the hose and coolant. If I were you I'd also stop using crappy worm drive clamps. Buy some new constant tension clamps from the dealer.

Whats wrong with the hose clamps? I find them a lot easier to remove in tight spaces so i find myself replacing the spring tensioned ones with hose clamps often, but i may stop if theres something wrong with them?

 

[jetjock]

The clamps aren't constant tension, corrode, damage hoses, leak, on and on. Toyota used CT for a reason: they're superior. Hard to put on? Invest in the right tools. Makes it a cinch (pun intended) even in tight places.

Cuel: You're welcome. It's a DMC-12. Fiero? You must think I'm crazy