ok so i just got done getting my supra finally running rite and the hg popped. shocker rite? anyways im faced with an issue. the hg. obviously a mhg and arps is the next step. goal is around 400rwp for next summer. sounds pretty accepted that to do a mhg u need to deck both block and head. the head is getting done for sure. idk about the block. im getting pretty sick of pulling 7ms. would be the 4th time and i dont want to disassemble the engine yet. im sure most of u have done many more times so ill stop bitching now. anyways would a oem hg and arps Sufism for my goal? how probable is the fail gonna be if i go mhg without decking the block? im sure im gonna get flamed but some serious input would be awesome. i know theres alot of variables. thanks guys
hg Suggestion.
- Thread starter mnracer550
- Start date
If you get your motor machined in preperation for a MHG, the gasket needs to be thick enough to compensate for the material removed. If you take off .04, the gasket you buy needs to be .04 larger than stock (example) or as close to it as possible. Too small a gasket will increase your compression, and higher compression is usually bad in a forced induction vehicle, but going too big will lower your compression, and your car will feel slow as hell. Ask the machine shop how much material they remove from the head and block, and adjust your head gasket size accordingly. If you bought the car second hand, the motor may have already been machined, so check before you buy the new gasket because it'll throw your measurement off.
If your block meets RA standards and your head isn't warped too badly, you might get away with some super detailed cleaning. Take a piece of plate glass and a tube of valve grinding compound and clean everything up as best you can, but both the block and head need to be almost mirror-like to get a proper seal. Don't use a gasket spray. No.
Also remember to take the lower timing cover to the shop and have it ground with the block, or the head will not seat properly. Chase the threads into the block if you're using studs, and you should be good to go. Did i forget anything???
Oh yeah. At the top right of the screen, above that advertisement for Verizon fios, there is an empty field. If you type in a random query, 98% of the time it has already been discussed. Throughly. Millions of times. Search is your friend.
If your block meets RA standards and your head isn't warped too badly, you might get away with some super detailed cleaning. Take a piece of plate glass and a tube of valve grinding compound and clean everything up as best you can, but both the block and head need to be almost mirror-like to get a proper seal. Don't use a gasket spray. No.
Also remember to take the lower timing cover to the shop and have it ground with the block, or the head will not seat properly. Chase the threads into the block if you're using studs, and you should be good to go. Did i forget anything???
Oh yeah. At the top right of the screen, above that advertisement for Verizon fios, there is an empty field. If you type in a random query, 98% of the time it has already been discussed. Throughly. Millions of times. Search is your friend.
yea...thanks for the info. i understand the hg issues and how to choose the rite one. new to supras but not to engine builds. i know these 7m engine are very picky about the head gaskets. the head is being rebuilt right now. but im really not to interested in pullin the engine apart after i finally got it running. call me lazy but shit sucks. i know it matters on what the actual warp is but im kinda thinkin about using a reputable oem top end kit and arp headstuds. any input on this?
You wont notice a difference in compression or have any detonation with higher compression.. I am running 12 lbs of boost on a NA block and pistons 9.1:1 with my head machined down 10 thousands with stock head gasket.. I run 91 octane and have no problems.. I love how people think .04 is going to to make such a huge difference its going to make the car slow as hell or blow the engine.. So if you get the block and head machined your not going to be anywhere in the danger zone.. Personally the block should not need to be machined if its not warped, Just check it for straightness with a straight edge and feeler gauges. The head I would recommend getting machined, Clean the block surface with a scraper to get the old gasket material off and wipe it down with alcohol same with the head and slap it back together with ARP Studs (it can be done in the car but you have to thread in the back studs once its on the block as the head wont clear the fire wall.. Stock OEM toyota head gasket it good for 400+ HP if installed correctly and surface is prepped properly and straight..
thanks for the info. much appreciated. now i just gotta decide if i want a mhg or go cheap and do a felpro top end kit.
I am on a felpro head gasket.. I would buy a head gasket set from ebay for 46.00 and throw away the head gasket (use all the other gaskets they are good) and buy a Toyota Head gasket and ARP's from driftmotion and you'll be set..
ARP Studs: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-arp203-4202.php
Head Gasket: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7mgtestockheadgasket.php
Head Gasket set (I have used this set on two motors and it is a GREAT BUY (DO NOT USE THE HEAD GASKET SUPPLIED IN THIS KIT EVERYTHING ELSE IS GOOD) :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-9...rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3461wt_913
ARP Studs: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-arp203-4202.php
Head Gasket: http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-7mgtestockheadgasket.php
Head Gasket set (I have used this set on two motors and it is a GREAT BUY (DO NOT USE THE HEAD GASKET SUPPLIED IN THIS KIT EVERYTHING ELSE IS GOOD) :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-9...rQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3461wt_913
yea thats sounding like a good option. what are you torquing the studs down to then? the recommended 90 (iv heard every number between 80 and 105) or less since its not a mhg?
90 ft lbs get head on and torqued down, let sit over night and then do a re torque procedure.. This allows the gasket to settle and compress so you can get a proper torque spec..
Whatever you end up doing, make sure you get a Toyota EGR cooler plate gasket. 99% of the aftermarket ones are paper/cardboard type gaskets and they'll burn up. And believe me...that thing is a PAIN to change with the engine/head in the car.