Heat Heat

xms

xms

New Member
Jan 25, 2006
269
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tx
Ric said:
radiatorbarn sells stock replacements for under $200. They are copper/brass construction which is better then aluminum.

Aluminum is only better then a copper/brass radiator cause it looks better and lighter. Brass/Copper is proven to cool better. My 3 row radiator costed me $180 shipped. Factory is 2.
Click to expand...
do you have to ask for a 3 row cuz it's not on the site
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
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Fort Worth, TX
now Koyo, new waterpump, new fan shroud (my old one wasn't that bad, but I wanted to be sure), new fan clutch, new radiator cap, new t-stat, samco hoses and toyota red coolant

doesn't EVER get over 1/3 up the gauge, usually around 1/4 up the gauge.

no engine undertray (it's not as critical as everyone says, what IS critical is the side parts that funnel the air into the radiator and the fan shroud)
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
42
Fort Worth, TX
I can't run any cooler than I already am (you can tell when the t-stat opens)

I'd run an undercover myself, but it's too expensive for something that's gonna get ripped up...

might make a custom one that funnels the air fromt he front grill into the intercooler and the rest of the cooling system...

but overall, those other components are far more critical (especially the fan clutch! I probably could have replaced just that and been fine...)
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
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42
Fort Worth, TX
are you calling me slow? LOL

we all can't spend bookoo bucks like you (you have more in your engine management than I have in my whole car (not including purchase))
 
I

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
38,728
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I come from a land down under
LOL nah not slow as such but I see things a little differently than most ;)

For me e-fans have always been a last resort on swaps where I couldn't fit an engine fan as they just don't make sense for all of the above reasons.
 
xms

xms

New Member
Jan 25, 2006
269
0
0
tx
Ric said:
radiatorbarn sells stock replacements for under $200. They are copper/brass construction which is better then aluminum.

Aluminum is only better then a copper/brass radiator cause it looks better and lighter. Brass/Copper is proven to cool better. My 3 row radiator costed me $180 shipped. Factory is 2.
Click to expand...
I just called radiatorbarn and it's the same stock replacement that in my car???
 
C

CarlosPTR210

New Member
Apr 5, 2006
435
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Calexico,CA
www.ptr.com.mx
Here is also hot: Imperial, CA,

With out AC system on:
Ambient temperature 12pm – 5pm: 100 - 115F
Water temp: 190 – 200 F
Oil temperature: 190F

I have the following cooling mod's:

Koyo Radiator
New fan shroud
180 Thermostats
Redline water additive
Permacoll Oil cooler with electric fan
New water pump
New Fan clush
MR2 Hood vent

p677376_1.jpg


p677376_2.jpg


p677376_3.jpg
 
xms

xms

New Member
Jan 25, 2006
269
0
0
tx
CarlosPTR210 said:
Here is also hot: Imperial, CA,

With out AC system on:
Ambient temperature 12pm – 5pm: 100 - 115F
Water temp: 190 – 200 F
Oil temperature: 190F

I have the following cooling mod's:

Koyo Radiator
New fan shroud
180 Thermostats
Redline water additive
Permacoll Oil cooler with electric fan
New water pump
New Fan clush
MR2 Hood vent

p677560_1.jpg


p677560_2.jpg


p677560_3.jpg
Click to expand...
so which model koyo radiator do you have,cuz the one that i have been seeing around are for the jz setup
 
M

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
0
36
Ohio
Poodles said:
now Koyo, new waterpump, new fan shroud (my old one wasn't that bad, but I wanted to be sure), new fan clutch, new radiator cap, new t-stat, samco hoses and toyota red coolant

doesn't EVER get over 1/3 up the gauge, usually around 1/4 up the gauge.

no engine undertray (it's not as critical as everyone says, what IS critical is the side parts that funnel the air into the radiator and the fan shroud)
Click to expand...
So, really what you're saying is that you don't have the slightest clue what temp you are running. I have seen anything from 88C to 110C on my GReddy gauge and the stocker has moved so little its barely perceptible.
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
42
Fort Worth, TX
I run cooler than others with the stock gauge...

not like it matters as you WILL have fluctuations in temps, it's completely normal...
 
Poodles

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
16,757
0
0
42
Fort Worth, TX
yes, in the area it sits now, it's actually very linier

I can see fluctuations if I get in hot situations, but it never even gets to half now (which is where it "stops" and then once you really overheat will jump)
 
Larry_A

Larry_A

You don't matter
Apr 7, 2005
102
0
0
SoCAL
Poodles said:
.....doesn't EVER get over 1/3 up the gauge, usually around 1/4 up the gauge.

no engine undertray (it's not as critical as everyone says, what IS critical is the side parts that funnel the air into the radiator and the fan shroud)
Click to expand...
Referencing the OEM gauge is next to worthless, like a narrow-band O2 gauge, but you already knew that.

The under-cover is a significant component of the car, maybe not so much in cooling, but in overall aerodynamics...specifically & clearly mentioned in my original sales brochure for the car. Also, without the cover, small bits of gravel/rock/flotsam-jetsam get into the accessory belts, chewing up both belts & pulley ribs. I've seen severe pulley rib wear on many non-under-covered MkIIIs, while pointing out the bits of gravel stuck in the belts to their owners. So people should really reconsider its importance if you've shrugged it off due to cost.
 
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