Has anyone seen negative wheel offsets in a mk3 supra and or 12 wide wheels

PureDrifter

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Aug 11, 2009
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lol this is like wheel fitment 101.

from a forum i frequent, VipStyleCars.com

bOosty.ViP;183610 said:
Do not give me credit for this. Got this from OG-MADE, hopefully this will contribute to our other members. Hopefully we can get this stickied

wheeloffset_00.jpg

If you look at a wheel along its barrel (width wise), zero (0) offset would be the imaginary line that is dead center between barrel end to end. The imaginary line is determined by where the backpad of the wheel sits. Keep in mind that this tutorial is based on MULTIPIECE WHEELS (which is what my previous how to determine lip post was referring to). Cast wheels follow the same idea, but the drawings I made are for multipiece wheels (since it shows lip size changing). If the backpad moves towards the outside of the wheel, then the offsets increase in positive numbers (in increments of mm). If the backpad moves towards the inside of the wheel, the the offsets increase in negative numbers (in increments of mm).

wheeloffset_02.jpg

Rule of thumb: the lower the offset, the further the wheel moved OUTWARD of the fender, and vice versa. As you can see, the orange line demonstrates the fender position, and the blue line demonstrates the hub/rotor where the wheel mounts to. For general purposes, let’s say this wheel is a 18×9.5+0 (images are not drawn to scale). As you can see, the outer position is “flush” (even) with the outer fender imaginary line (shown in orange). Also take note of the size of the outer lip of the wheel. Let see what happens if we raise the offset of the wheel…

wheeloffset_01.jpg

So instead of a 18×9.5+0, let’s try to run a 18×9.5+22 and see what happens. As you can see, if you change the offset of a wheel from a +0 to a +22, the overall position of the wheel is going to move INWARD 22mm. As you can see by the area shown in green, that is the 22mm that the wheel backpad moved between the two sizes. Since the wheels shown are multipiece, the face of the wheel moves inside the barrel to change offsets, rather than adding more material to the wheel backpad. In addition, notice that the lip size decreased when the offset increase. Generally speaking, one can assume that the lip size decreases when the offset increases, but sometimes it might not be the case (depending on face design, but that’s gonna get confusing).
- Lowering the offset: the more it moves outward from the fender (”more flush”)
- Raising the offset: the more it moves inward inside the fender (”more sunk”)

How to Read a Wheel Sizing Chart
sizingchart_01.jpg

1. “Free Range” Offsets: These are sizing charts that allow you to choose from a “range” of offsets, rather than a preset number. Before all that though, you read the chart like any other table. As demonstrated by the purple arrow, this wheel is offered in an 18 inch (diameter) by 10 inch (width). If you look at the top of the chart, there are the following column headings: Taper Low Disk / Flat Low Disk / Flat High Disk. Each brand has a different name for its face choices, but for the most part, it will either go lowest to highest, or vice versa (obviously if it has “low” in the name, then you know it has LESS brake clearance in comparison to a “high” disk). Brake clearance and face choice is a whole other blog though. Let’s just take “Taper Low Disk,” which usually will be a rear wheel. As shown by the green arrow, you can get any offset -13 through +53. This means you can get any whole number offset, i.e -12, -11, +0, +1, and so on. The circled lip size I will be referring to is in light blue, i.e 77mm. Also, PCD = bolt pattern.

Lazy reader notes:
- Purple arrow: Wheel size - diameter (18″) by width (10″)
- Green arrow: Face choice + respective columns of available offsets
- Magenta square: PCD = bolt pattern of wheel
- Blue circle: “77″ is the wheel lip size in mm that is associated to +53 offset
- Taper Low Disk = least brake clearance (ideal for rear)
- Flat Low Disk = standard brake clearance (will clear most standard size front calipers)
- Flat High Disk = maximum brake clearance (ideal for BBK or big caliper)

sizingchart_02.jpg


2. “Preset” Offsets: These are sizing charts that allow you to choose from a “preset” offset, given to you by the sizing chart for that specific wheel. In this case, the 18×11.5 is offered in +5, -8, -16, and so on down the row. Each column represents the wheel faces that are offered, i.e “SL, NR, MD, HP.” Their respective meanings are color coded and shown below the chart. Again, it (SL, NR, MD, HP) goes from least amount of brake clearance (Super Low Disk) to maximum amount of brake clearance (Hyper Disk). At the top of the column, the 135mm refers to the lip size, and is the lip size for the 4 columns below it (i.e +5, -8, -16, and -26 all have 135mm lip size). Lip size is easy with presets, since you just figure out what diameter x width x offset you are running, and look at the column above. For example, an 18×11.5-26 (HP Face) has a 135mm lip, as well as an 18×11-14 (NR Face). An 18×12-1 (SL) has a 148mm lip, etc. Got it?

Lazy reader notes:
- Navy Blue square: Wheel size - diameter (18″) by width (11.5″) and corresponding offset choices
- Orange square: Lip sizing in mm, refers to the 4 columns of offset choices listed below it
- Magenta square: “HP” refers to the wheel face choice (i.e determines level of brake clearance), and offsets for that face choice are listed below it
- Lime green square: Usually where special notes are, in this case there are different color choices (which also can mean different prices). PCD = bolt pattern of wheel, and in this case, there are more bolt patterns possible, i.e you might be able to do a 5×120, 5×112, etc
- SL, NR, MD, HP: listed in order from least to most brake clearance

3. How to calculate lip size: First of all, you have to figure out what size wheel you want to go with. So if you take a look at the top most chart, let’s say you want a 18×10 with a +15 offset with a Taper Low Disk for your rear wheel. I had circled the number “77″ in blue, which is the lip size for an 18×10+53 Taper Low Disk wheel (this does not go for all 18×10 multipiece wheels, lip size is specific to EACH brand and model of wheel, so check the sizing chart always). So a +53 gives you 77mm of lip, which tells you that if you go to a +15, you will be getting MORE LIP (rule of thumb: lower the offset, the more the wheel sticks outward from the fender, and bigger the lip gets). So a (+53) minus (+15) = 38mm. Add 77mm + 38mm and you get 115mm, which is the lip size of a 18×10+15 Taper Low Disk.
 

A. Jay

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rodel;1578851 said:
I hope this explanation helps:

offset.gif


Try to visualize this:
- To the left of the picture is the inside of the fender.
- To the right of the picture is the outside of the fender.

In the picture above:
- the dotted line is the centerline of the wheel
- the mounting surface of the wheel is to the right of the centerline

let's make an example of 2 wheels:
Wheel 1: If the mounting surface of the wheel is to the left of the centerline, the offset is negative.
Wheel 2: If the mounting surface of the wheel is to the right of the centerline, the offset is positive.

Assuming that wheel 1 and 2 are the same width, wheel 1's out edge of the lip will stick out more towards the outside of the fender.

I had you up until you said the last sentence, because that's exactly what I was thinking.

Just tell me this, if two wheels have the same offset but different widths, which one is has the outer edge farther from the rotor?
 

PureDrifter

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A. Jay;1578868 said:
I had you up until you said the last sentence, because that's exactly what I was thinking.

Just tell me this, if two wheels have the same offset but different widths, which one is has the outer edge farther from the rotor?

let us make an example in which we have a pair of 18" wheels (diameter is totally irrelevant though) both with the same offset of +30mm
one wheel is 9" wide (total spec would be 18x9 +30)
one wheel is 10" wide (total spec would be 18x10 +30)

in this case, the 10" wheel will stick out 13mm MORE than the 9" wheel, but have an additional 13mm of clearance from the suspension on the inner barrel of the wheel.
the reason for this is that 1" = ~26mm (really about 25.4mm, but we're rounding up for simplicity's sake).

Now, say for example that you just dont have room for the wheel to stick out an extra 13mm (if you already have a 9" +30 wheel there, for example) but you really want that 10" wide wheel. all you need to do is buy a 10" +43 (30mm+13mm) wheel. remember, you can relatively easily lower the offset of a wheel using hubcentric spacers and extended studs, but can't RAISE it since that would require shaving the hub of the wheel itself.

NOTE: Wheel spacers LOWER your effective offset. if you have a 9" +30 wheel and add a 10mm spacer, your effective offset will be 9" +20

there's an annoying mathematical equation that i use in excel that uses 25.4mm and gives you fitment down to the hundreth of a mm, but for 99% of what you'd be interested in an online offset calculator such as http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp will get the job done.
 

BigBad92Turbo

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Jun 4, 2010
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Our cars look like crap with flush profile rims.. get something with a lip.. world of difference.

...and holy confusion with offset... But glad its getting worked out.

I run 285/35/18's out back and if I rember right offset was 35... I did have to role my fenders. I am not sure why in the pic below, must have been how I parked but it looks like the rear tire has no camber... but anyhow.
 
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A. Jay

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super.secret.supra.club;1573274 said:
no, you need to move to a more negative offset the wider you rims are.

PureDrifter;1579002 said:
(...)
one wheel is 9" wide (total spec would be 18x9 +30)
one wheel is 10" wide (total spec would be 18x10 +30)


in this case, the 10" wheel will stick out 13mm MORE than the 9" wheel, but have an additional 13mm of clearance from the suspension on the inner barrel of the wheel.
the reason for this is that 1" = ~26mm (really about 25.4mm, but we're rounding up for simplicity's sake).

Now, say for example that you just dont have room for the wheel to stick out an extra 13mm (if you already have a 9" +30 wheel there, for example) but you really want that 10" wide wheel. all you need to do is buy a 10" +43 (30mm+13mm) wheel
(...)

+43 is more positive (hub mounting surface moves farther from the centerline and towards the outside of the car) than +30, so I was right. Thanks everyone for trying to explain this to me, but what you were all saying is what I was saying. Maybe I was just being misunderstood or something (happens a lot lol it might be me so I'll work on that). Again, thanks, because those were some long posts and I appreciate your time.
 
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kazeyuki

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Dec 25, 2007
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in the end good luck trying to fit negative offset wheels i barely pulled it off w/ the right tire setup.. but its not daily drive able in hawaii's roads.
 

PureDrifter

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super.secret.supra.club;1573274 said:
no, you need to move to a more negative offset the wider you rims are.

you have that backwards, refer my previous posts.

---------- Post added at 02:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:57 PM ----------

A. Jay;1579043 said:
+43 is more positive (hub mounting surface moves farther from the centerline and towards the outside of the car) than +30, so I was right. Thanks everyone for trying to explain this to me, but what you were all saying is what I was saying. Maybe I was just being misunderstood or something (happens a lot lol it might be me so I'll work on that). Again, thanks, because those were some long posts and I appreciate your time.

no problem :)