I got a 89 Supra Turbo with a Canadian 7M-GTE recently, that wasn't running and changed out the fuel pump ( Went to a Walboro 255LPH), fuel filter, the bad gas in the fuel tank, and the spark plugs. She is hard to start, I have to press on the throttle to eventually get her in a self-sustained running condition, which normally takes a couple of tries. She can keep somewhat of an idle around 500 RPM but will stall out sometimes. I'll try to get a video of it tomorrow and get a picture of an old spark plug. I'm not sure how long the car was sitting before I picked her up
Hard to start and keep running
- Thread starter Anti Lagged
- Start date
check iacv
check the lines running to it
check for vacuum leaks
is the motor completely stock? do you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?
check the lines running to it
check for vacuum leaks
is the motor completely stock? do you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator?
i didnt know there was a canadian 7mgte... lol
but ya we will need some more info... iscv? vacuum leak?
a video will help.
but ya we will need some more info... iscv? vacuum leak?
a video will help.
Vacuum leaks don't effect idle, unless it is the iscv itself, and hitting the throttle to start the car is a mental illusion. It isn't carburated, and it doesn't do anything. Make sure your timing is correct, and that the o2 sensor and AFM are plugged in. Are you sure you're getting spark/fuel? That video would be helpful.
By opening up the throttle body, she seems to try to start, she'll just get higher than the starter's RPM and then sometimes she'll start to run. I'm about to clean the 02 sensor and then check the timing since I found the problem that was keeping her from revving past 3500( not sure if I posted that earlier). And as far as I know the motor is completely stock and was bought from Tiger Japanese and the guy we bought the car from said it was a canadian 7M
I need to find something better to take a vid then my phone, but she'll start up cold now and then once she heats up, she's hard to start up. Running pretty rich and around 3500 RPM, she'll stutter and then the turbo spools and she gets better. I'm big into subie's ( got a 2011 and a 2004 wrx) so I didn't really work on it today
hvyman;1673477 said:
How big do I have to drill it out or if I bypass it, do I have to run a restrictor in the line, if so what size?
Anti Lagged;1673499 said:
The J-tube is itself a restrictor. It's there to keep a minimum pressure in the system so you can limp it home should the factory regulator fail. The point of removing it is to get rid of the restriction once a higher flow pump is installed, so no.
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Okay, I was just making sure, Subie's run a restrictor pill in the boost line and they are very finicky if they aren't the exact right size
Subies also dont like more boost without a tune.
The j tubes purpose is basically a backup fpr incase the stock one goes out so you still have some kind of pressure and dont super lean out. With the bigger pump and the j tube still in place you not only have more fuel flowing but you have more pressure than needed. Drill it out, afpr kit with by pass hose, Use a double hose barb and connect the 2 lines together, what ever. Just let the fuel flow.
The j tubes purpose is basically a backup fpr incase the stock one goes out so you still have some kind of pressure and dont super lean out. With the bigger pump and the j tube still in place you not only have more fuel flowing but you have more pressure than needed. Drill it out, afpr kit with by pass hose, Use a double hose barb and connect the 2 lines together, what ever. Just let the fuel flow.
Okay thanks, bypassing it helped and she ran pretty good until I got a couple miles down the road to go fill up the tires with air and to see what my buddies were working on at the hobby shop and she ended up dieing and appears not to be getting spark. Quick question, did all of the 7M with the coil packs above the #2 cylinder, have a ground that was a brown wire leading off of the body of the coil packs to the intake manifold for a ground? My friends old 87 did and was just making sure if this one was supposed to have it as it currently does not
Supposed to be there but it wouldnt cause that.
Check the cennections and everything and make sure the ecu grounds are clean and tight on the intake manfold. Also check your codes.
Check the cennections and everything and make sure the ecu grounds are clean and tight on the intake manfold. Also check your codes.
No codes....... Have a dead short somewhere.... popped the 30A AM2 fuse, anybody have some good schematics?
What the fuse goes to:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=33
Ignition system
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=040
ign coil ties into efi resistor
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=33
Ignition system
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=040
ign coil ties into efi resistor
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46
spikesnstuff0905;1673323 said:
Except let a whole lot of air in the engine during cranking mode which isn't running mode.
So it's somewhere in the harness. Shaking it will cause a definate short sometimes, so I'm pulling out the harness and redoing a lot of the vacuum lines as well
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