SOLVED---Hi Guys, Today I installed the Dorman 911-604 VSV. It was no pleasure getting the old one out. It's not that it is that difficult, it is just in a place that is rough to get large arms and hands into. There is one 12mm bolt to remove under the intake manifold on the drivers side between the engine and the wheel well. Then there are 2 vacuum hoses attached to the nipples. They are only a few inches long, and then attach to metal tubes that take them to their destinations. One goes to the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and the other goes to a Vacuum source nipple. Then the only thing left to remove is the connector. Just squeeze the locking tab, and it should slip off. Thats it, the VSV comes out with the small attaching bracket. You could take it out by removing it from the bracket leaving the bracket attached, but I found it easier to remove the bracket and VSV at once, plus you need to mount the bracket to the replacement, which is not an exact match.
I then tested the old VSV, it measured 4 ohms on a 200k scale, and did not have any short to body issues, just as the manual says it should be. BUT when I applied 12v to the terminals, it did nothing. The solenoid did not click at all, and the airstream that i was applying went from the in nipple to the out nipple going to the regulator. So that proves that it was inoperative in redirecting the vacuum towards the filter side as it is supposed to do.
I then tested the New Dorman, it measured 3 ohms and no short to body issues, AND when I applied 12v to the terminals, the solenoid clicked. The airstream then went from the in nipple to the filter side, thereby depriving the Fuel Regulator of Vacuum, allowing it to pass the full pressure coming from the fuel pump to the Rail. That is exactly what it is supposed to do.
So here is what I had to modify to install the Dorman. It is very close to the oem, ( which I found impossible to get a new one), but the way you have to mount it to the oem bracket is different. I needed to use a small nut and bolt to hold it to the bracket, (the oem uses a small screw which mates to a threaded portion of the VSV Metal Housing). Not a big deal at all, the new one then fit right back where it was supposed to. Put the Vac tubes back on, I used new tubes, and then the connector, and then bolt the bracket back on. ONE CAVEAT The connection nipple on the Dorman is very slightly different than the oem, There is a small locating tab on the Dorman on the opposite side of the connection nipple from the lock tab. Unfortunately it is not exactly where the oem tab is. It is offset a few mm's, so the slot in the oem wire connector won't slip over it. My solution was to simply cut it off of the new dorman with a pair of snips. That was all that was needed, slipped the connector over the connection nipple, and it locked in place--Done Deal. The whole job took me about 20 minutes, and that was with standing up to stretch my aching back and groaning a few times.
I did finally receive the Modified CSI Timer, brand new from Toyota, but I did not install it, because I do not think that my car has the lukewarm starting problem. So I will just have to eat that mistake. But I do believe that the modified CSI timer is appropriate for some cars that have a hard time starting when midway between hot and cold.
Last but not least I took the Supra out for a long drive, highway, ac on and stopped at a few stores along the way, spaced my shopping out at about a half a dozen locations, I would come back out in 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 minutes to start and go to another location. SUCCESS She started every time with no fuss, just hit the key, and go, just like when it was new.
Thanks again for all of your suggestions, It's now Miller Time.
HOORAH---
Semper Fi
