got a question about HG bolts

bonus12

Backroads Driver
Jul 15, 2006
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CA
the new ARP bolts are pretty newly changed, so they need re-tightening soon. i got about 400 miles before i need to do this at 78 torque. is it worth the work do it myself, or should i have it professionally done to make sure it is perfect?

how much does this kind of thing cost to get done?

if i do it myself, are there any good instructions you know of?

thanks...
 
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bonus12

Backroads Driver
Jul 15, 2006
143
0
0
CA
IJ. said:
Do you have a good torque wrench?

i dont really have anything yet, since i just got my first sup' today; i just have regular tools, like wrenchs and screw drivers.

are torque wrenches just a really strong wrench? or is it electric? thanks...
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Really strong and accurate so you get ALL of the bolts to an exact torque setting.

If you're going to be working on cars a bit (can't avoid this owning a Mk3) it's well worth going and buying a good quality one so you'll have it forever!
(I got one when I was 13 I'm 44 now and still use it)
 

Racefiend

OH, YEAAHH!
Apr 6, 2005
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Bay Area, CA
Man, that picture in your avatar is the sweetest mk3 I've ever seen! :icon_razz

If you want to cruise back down after you hit 500 miles I can show you how to do it, of course, you do all the work, I'll just supervise :). Pick up a PS hose and we can change that too. How was the drive back?

Christian
 

bonus12

Backroads Driver
Jul 15, 2006
143
0
0
CA
Racefiend said:
Man, that picture in your avatar is the sweetest mk3 I've ever seen! :icon_razz

How was the drive back?

Christian


Drive back was great. everthing went totally well. great handling, but i havent discovered the deal about the tems yet. i dont notice a difference between sport and normal.
 

Racefiend

OH, YEAAHH!
Apr 6, 2005
106
0
0
47
Bay Area, CA
The only page you really need is this one:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_55.html

It has the bolt tightening sequence. Everything else is pretty straight foward. Take as much off as you need to to get the valve covers off. I'll give you a quick rundown. Unbolt the PCV metal pipe from the 3000 pipe, loosen it on the TB and off of the valve covers, and pull it aside (theres also a bolt that holds that pipe to the side of the head where it runs under the air inlet pipe, but IIRC I didn't put that one on). Unbolt the ISC metal pipe from the 3000 pipe, and loosen the hose to the ISC, remove the two vacuum lines from the pipe on the TB side, and twist it aside, out of the way. Remove the two bolts holding the 3000 pipe to the pass side valve cover, loosen the BOV from the accordian hose (turbo inlet hose), remove the vacuum line from the BOV, and loosen the whole intake pipe at the TB and at the plastic elbow near the air filter and remove it with BOV attached. Remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the throttle linkage and twist it aside towards the brake booster. Remove the 4 nuts holding the coil packs to the valve covers. Unplug the green connector for the coils. Remove the ground wire on the coil pack bracket (be careful, it's real easy to mishandle and lose that tiny screw), and pull the packs off with the plug wires. Then Remove the oil drain hose from the drivers valve cover. It's right behind the alternator. Pull the wiring harness that runs over the front of the valve covers over the timing cover and out of the way. Then remove the valve cover nuts (you'll need an allen key for those, so pick up a set of allen keys) and remove the covers. Now retorque in the order on the TSRM. Clean off the FIPG (RTV) from the corners of the valve cover gaskets where they go over the number 1 cam caps, and clean it off the head in those corners also. Apply a dab of RTV to those corners before putting the valve covers back on. Install is reverse of removal.


As far as TEMS, the 3 lights on the dash are, from left to right, soft, medium, hard. Normal sets the initial setting on soft, and sport sets it on medium. When on sport, if you brake doing more than around 40mph, the shocks will switch to hard. Also, when making significant turns (like on backroads) it will also switch to hard. It does the same on normal, but I don't remember if it goes to medium or hard, as I rarely put it on normal.

I've noticed the difference even on the freeway. Theres been times where I've been driving and noticed the car seems kind of floaty over small bumps and undulations. Then I realize I accidentally had it on normal, switch it to sport, and it feels firm again. You'll probably start noticing it once you get used to the feel of the car.

OK, my fingers are tired now. Thats a lot of typing.
 

bonus12

Backroads Driver
Jul 15, 2006
143
0
0
CA
wow. that's easily the best, most informative, most helpful post i have ever seen on any forum. THANKS!!! when the time comes, i'll follow those exact instructions... sounds pretty fun so i am looking forward to it.

Everybody who sees this, please get racefiend some kudos.:icon_razz

can't wait to drive with the targa off tomorrow...

thanks again, i can't tell you how valuable this kind of info is to a supra beginner like me.:biglaugh: