The only page you really need is this one:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_55.html
It has the bolt tightening sequence. Everything else is pretty straight foward. Take as much off as you need to to get the valve covers off. I'll give you a quick rundown. Unbolt the PCV metal pipe from the 3000 pipe, loosen it on the TB and off of the valve covers, and pull it aside (theres also a bolt that holds that pipe to the side of the head where it runs under the air inlet pipe, but IIRC I didn't put that one on). Unbolt the ISC metal pipe from the 3000 pipe, and loosen the hose to the ISC, remove the two vacuum lines from the pipe on the TB side, and twist it aside, out of the way. Remove the two bolts holding the 3000 pipe to the pass side valve cover, loosen the BOV from the accordian hose (turbo inlet hose), remove the vacuum line from the BOV, and loosen the whole intake pipe at the TB and at the plastic elbow near the air filter and remove it with BOV attached. Remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the throttle linkage and twist it aside towards the brake booster. Remove the 4 nuts holding the coil packs to the valve covers. Unplug the green connector for the coils. Remove the ground wire on the coil pack bracket (be careful, it's real easy to mishandle and lose that tiny screw), and pull the packs off with the plug wires. Then Remove the oil drain hose from the drivers valve cover. It's right behind the alternator. Pull the wiring harness that runs over the front of the valve covers over the timing cover and out of the way. Then remove the valve cover nuts (you'll need an allen key for those, so pick up a set of allen keys) and remove the covers. Now retorque in the order on the TSRM. Clean off the FIPG (RTV) from the corners of the valve cover gaskets where they go over the number 1 cam caps, and clean it off the head in those corners also. Apply a dab of RTV to those corners before putting the valve covers back on. Install is reverse of removal.
As far as TEMS, the 3 lights on the dash are, from left to right, soft, medium, hard. Normal sets the initial setting on soft, and sport sets it on medium. When on sport, if you brake doing more than around 40mph, the shocks will switch to hard. Also, when making significant turns (like on backroads) it will also switch to hard. It does the same on normal, but I don't remember if it goes to medium or hard, as I rarely put it on normal.
I've noticed the difference even on the freeway. Theres been times where I've been driving and noticed the car seems kind of floaty over small bumps and undulations. Then I realize I accidentally had it on normal, switch it to sport, and it feels firm again. You'll probably start noticing it once you get used to the feel of the car.
OK, my fingers are tired now. Thats a lot of typing.