Fuse Box Relocation

RedPhoenix

RedPhoenix

Kill it with fire!
Sep 23, 2009
222
0
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Tampa, FL
I am going for a massive wire tuck. I want to put the stock fuse box in my hatch. As far as I am concerned, it is as simple as extending each wire that connects to the fuse box 15ft or so and putting it in the hatch. Paired with the relocated battery, the main power source is now very small too.

Or am I missing something?

Matt
 
N

Neodeuccio

Addicted to boost...
Sep 30, 2006
846
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Schenectady NY
I am hardly a wiring expert, but this would seem to be a very time consuming and potentially dangerous undertaking. It would be a major pain in the ass to reroute all of those wires, and as some of them are carrying heavy loads, you'd be running high current wires through the cab. Can it be done, I'm sure. But it's not something I would want to do, and it's not something I would want on my car.
 
S

Scruggs86.5T

New Member
Dec 8, 2007
298
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Slidell, LA
I had thought about doing this, the problem with doing this is as was stated above. The wiring you are using is a smaller gauge of wire compared to what you would need to travel that distance. To keep it simple you would need to move up to a larger gauge for wiring. Why do you think they suggest 2 gauge wire for the battery cable when relocating. This is the same principal. I ended up deciding to move it under the fender with the plastic underfender piece in place. I am still not done with this part of my build but I will be figuring out a way to seal up the fuse box for water resistance.
 
Moy

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
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^ More than it's worth for the sake of "clean"

Relocate the battery to the trunk, then the fusebox to where the battery was, and get a CF fuse box lid for it :)
 
madsupra88

madsupra88

BoOoOoST
Sep 17, 2005
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Its really not hard relocating the fuse box in the hatch. Im actually goin to do this here in a few weeks.The wires will all be bundled up and insulated for saftey. Battery will be back there too.

If your going to do this, please make sure you solder everything and not twist/tape. Also tape everything together nice and neat, and get some wire loom over everything, then tape the loom shut.
 
RedPhoenix

RedPhoenix

Kill it with fire!
Sep 23, 2009
222
0
0
Tampa, FL
mattsplat72;1512537 said:
What about moving it infront of the radsupport and having it covered by a block off plate. Say right where the coolant overfill is and move the overfill bottle over to the other side? JUst an Idea.....
Click to expand...

This isnt bad, I will see if I can move it forward to hide it.

madsupra88;1512606 said:
Its really not hard relocating the fuse box in the hatch. Im actually goin to do this here in a few weeks.The wires will all be bundled up and insulated for saftey. Battery will be back there too.

If your going to do this, please make sure you solder everything and not twist/tape. Also tape everything together nice and neat, and get some wire loom over everything, then tape the loom shut.
Click to expand...


No doubt. It will all be soldered. The last thing I need is a stupid crimp breaking and my car not starting lol.

What gauge wire are you using? Where are you mounting it?
 
arknotts

arknotts

formerly ark86
Jan 9, 2008
461
1
18
Ohio
slow_yota;1579514 said:
Where would you put your targa if your battery was always in your trunk ?
Click to expand...

If you position it right, the targa will fit. I didn't want to lose my spare tire either:

batt_reloc_1.JPG
 
shaeff

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
Staff member
Super Moderator
Mar 30, 2005
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^Looks like a Taylor box to me.

madsupra88;1512606 said:
Its really not hard relocating the fuse box in the hatch. Im actually goin to do this here in a few weeks.The wires will all be bundled up and insulated for saftey. Battery will be back there too.

If your going to do this, please make sure you solder everything and not twist/tape. Also tape everything together nice and neat, and get some wire loom over everything, then tape the loom shut.
Click to expand...

No way I'd solder all those. The potential for failure is too high. Get a bunch of good crimps and a GOOD crimping tool. It'll take less time, be more fail safe, and conduct the current better.

With soldering, there is too much margin for error. In a car, it's best to crimp rather than solder. (Why do you think they crimp in aircraft?;))
 
NashMan

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
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Victoria BC
I not fan of this idea in any way and soldering them is not good idea crimp then solder that way the wire will be sealed


as for fender not that great of idea pain to check fuses and to much water for me

in front of the rad support is pretty much the best spot

the most neat place would be under the passenger seat but still not a fan


the father away the fuse pan;e is the the more the delay you have light will go dimmer etc
 
arknotts

arknotts

formerly ark86
Jan 9, 2008
461
1
18
Ohio
slow_yota;1579914 said:
Ahh, I see. =]
May have to do this over the winter.
That a summitracing kit ?
Click to expand...

Like shaeff pointed out it's a Taylor box. I did buy it from summit racing though.
 
F

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,224
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Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
Soldering on high current wires = a big no!

crimp and only crimp. Require GOOD tools (not the cheap crap sold at Napa, Radioschack etc) and good PIDG crimp connectors.

here, if you are wanting to clean up the electrical system...

MoteC PDM30 or PDM15 x 2. Done.
 
NashMan

NashMan

WTF did he just wright ?
Aug 5, 2005
4,940
17
38
42
Victoria BC
figgie;1580069 said:
Soldering on high current wires = a big no!

crimp and only crimp. Require GOOD tools (not the cheap crap sold at Napa, Radioschack etc) and good PIDG crimp connectors.

here, if you are wanting to clean up the electrical system...

MoteC PDM30 or PDM15 x 2. Done.
Click to expand...

do you know why it is not recommended for citron applications there is reason
 
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