Fresh Head....Scared to death!

[cinciguy89turbo]

I will be picking my head up machine shop after dropping my valve stem into the cylinder tomorrow :3d_frown: (I'm sure we all remember this thread)

Idk if I'm going to be able to sleep tonight because I'm so paranoid that I'm going to F something up tomorrow. I pick my head up 10:30, and I have all day to work on it. Do you guys think I will finish tomorrow? Newbie here...first time tearing into an engine, and I probably picked the wrong one to start with.

Also any last minute advice??? Got ARP studs btw...torque wrenches, the right stuff, felpro head gasket set...

Thanks for helping me out through this guys.

 

[suprabones]

Just take it slow and do things right and you will be just fine.. If you have problems or questions as you go, just do some searches on here. You can learn a lot from this forum.

On a Felpro HG, dont plan to push to to much boost..

Also just a note on assembly with ARP headstuds, make sure you have a thin wall 14mm 12 point deep well socket.. That is a must have socket..

Hope all goes well.

-Matt.

 

[92nsx]

Yep, do not use a felpro head gasket LOL the last one I used lasted 73 miles, and several horror stories about them here on sm.

 

[Another MkIII]

I had a 2 year degree in automotive and I was nervous tearing into my engine. I know how it feels. In engines class it was "if I f*** this up, its only a practice motor that is never going to be run, so no loss". On the Supra it was "If I f*** this up, its 6 months and over $1500 of my own money down the toilet." So its understandable to be nervous. Its an intimidating motor too, not exactly simple. Having said all that, if you take your time and follow the TSRM step by step (except torque the head 75-80 ft-lbs instead of the TSRM spec), you won't have any problems. Good luck, and let us know if you need help, this community has a wealth of info and experience. If a Supra is involved, somebody here has seen or heard of it. They were a huge help to me with my project.
-AM3

 

[Moy]

I had a 2 year degree in automotive and I was nervous tearing into my engine. I know how it feels. In engines class it was "if I f*** this up, its only a practice motor that is never going to be run, so no loss". On the Supra it was "If I f*** this up, its 6 months and over $1500 of my own money down the toilet." So its understandable to be nervous. Its an intimidating motor too, not exactly simple. Having said all that, if you take your time and follow the TSRM step by step (except torque the head 75-80 ft-lbs instead of the TSRM spec), you won't have any problems. Good luck, and let us know if you need help, this community has a wealth of info and experience. If a Supra is involved, somebody here has seen or heard of it. They were a huge help to me with my project.
-AM3

On a composite head gasket, 75 is the most you want to go before you start to change the compression ratio (advice given by Tim @ Sound Performance)


My 7m-gte was the first engine I tore into as well. I was a bit nervous about messing something up, and still am nervous that I did. But it's normal. Just take it slow and make sure to do it right. Print out the pages from the online TSRM, they definitely help.

 

[Another MkIII]

On a composite head gasket, 75 is the most you want to go before you start to change the compression ratio (advice given by Tim @ Sound Performance)


My 7m-gte was the first engine I tore into as well. I was a bit nervous about messing something up, and still am nervous that I did. But it's normal. Just take it slow and make sure to do it right. Print out the pages from the online TSRM, they definitely help.

Good advice, I've heard everything from 75 to as high as 95 ft-lbs (which is ridiculous). You'll be fine at 75.
-AM3

 

[Poodles]

That's if you're reusing stock headbolts.

If you're using ARP fasteners, go by what ARP says!

 

[cinciguy89turbo]

Yep, do not use a felpro head gasket LOL the last one I used lasted 73 miles, and several horror stories about them here on sm.

Now I'm really nervous. I just want reliability. I just have a 3" exhaust is all. Not looking to push too much. I hope felpro will be ok, have already paid well over 300 for the damn head gasket set.

 

[cinciguy89turbo]

That's if you're reusing stock headbolts.

If you're using ARP fasteners, go by what ARP says!

I will be giving them a call tomorrow, to find out the torque increments.

 

[veedubin]

Also just a note on assembly with ARP headstuds, make sure you have a thin wall 14mm 12 point deep well socket.. That is a must have socket..


-Matt.

I didn't have much luck with the deep well. I ended up using a thin wall 14mm 12pt shallow on an extension. The deepwell wouldn't get into were it needed to go due to the cams being in the way. The first time i did it with ARP's I used a snap on semi deep 14mm but i didn't have my set with me this time. Am I doing something wrong that I couldnt use a deep well?

 

[suprabones]

Now I'm really nervous. I just want reliability. I just have a 3" exhaust is all. Not looking to push too much. I hope felpro will be ok, have already paid well over 300 for the damn head gasket set.

Stock boost levels on the Felpro will be fine.. I actually prefer the OEM gasket if staying low boost..

I understand the money spent.. We all shell out good cash to make the head gasket problem as reliable as you can make it..

I have been through 2 Oem toyota gaskets (not counting the the original), and now I have been running a Ajusa MHG for 2yrs..

-Matt.

 

[suprahero]

Did you rotate the cams so they'd be out of your way?

 

[suprabones]

I didn't have much luck with the deep well. I ended up using a thin wall 14mm 12pt shallow on an extension. The deepwell wouldn't get into were it needed to go due to the cams being in the way. The first time i did it with ARP's I used a snap on semi deep 14mm but i didn't have my set with me this time. Am I doing something wrong that I couldnt use a deep well?

I have been using a 14mm 12pt deep well made by craftsman for doing the ARP headstuds..

The only thing I can think of that we might have different, I am using the NA cams.. I dont remember having any sort of cam clearance issues..

-Matt.

 

[lewis15498]

Did you rotate the cams so they'd be out of your way?

+1 you gotta turn the cams guy.

 

[cinciguy89turbo]

+1 you gotta turn the cams guy.

whats the easiest way to do this...with the sprockets on with the studs finger tight?

 

[lewis15498]

You should be able to turn the cams manually by the sprocket. If its tough to turn, you can just throw a rachet on the bolt that holds on the sprocket. Its a non interference motor so you should be able to go all the way around without having a problem, not that you would need to.

 

[radiod]

Cams pointed to TDC (timing marks on the cam and the cover aligned or the middle of the 3 holes pointed straight up) should give you the clearance you need. I have turbo cams, and I found there's a couple spots on the intake side that you might need to fiddle back and forth a bit to get the socket down, but I got in a 3/8" drive chrome 12-point socket down there no problem. You can use either the cam bolt in the front or there are some flat spots on each of the cams towards the front so youc an turn/hold them with a big wrench (I think I used a 1 1/16" cause I didn't have a metric one big enough).

 

[crisp]

Take your time. Read what is said in here carefully and completely. Follow the well-placed advice that borders on "conservative" but likely CORRECT in here. (i.e.: Suggesting a better MHG, etc... imho) and ask for help if things get hairy!

Also, along with the 12 point thin-walled (Craftsman deep well works for me) M14 socket and aligned cams (you have to be at the "flats" and "dimple" on a couple of the wells) I'd also suggest being prepared for the need to PARTIALLY LOWER the head (NOT QUITE down onto the gasket) and then starting each nut and running down a LITTLE until you can set the head the rest of the way down. (I used a couple dowel rods between the head and deck... but DON'T slide them out under "friction", or you may "shave" something into the space between the head and block!) Anyone else notice this "two-step" head lowering?


Don't break your back! I had to stand IN the engine compartment to lift mine off and put it back on... trust me, better to bring a friend or lift!


-crisp

 

[Poodles]

With studs and the washers, yeah, it's hell if they don't go straight in as once the head is on with the studs sticking up you can't drop the washers on.

Sounds like you had the same issue 92NSX had with the nuts, he shaved them down in a lathe to get them to clear.

 

[crisp]

With studs and the washers, yeah, it's hell if they don't go straight in as once the head is on with the studs sticking up you can't drop the washers on.

Sounds like you had the same issue 92NSX had with the nuts, he shaved them down in a lathe to get them to clear.

:aigo:WOW! Turned the nuts with a lathe! I was stumped at first too... and then realized there was clearance to put the tapered 12 point nuts on if the head was still "suspended" about 1/2" above the deck... then after hand starting the nuts... I lowered it the rest of the way!


Always wondered if that was how it is with EVERYONE's ARP set... or if mine were "early" nuts? (I did my job the first time back in the EARLY '90s... and had no internet community to help!)


-crisp