Hello everybody. When I first got the car I went back and re-torqued the head. Didn't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened without it...but this was before I had done any serious modifications. I recently blew my headgasket (no major blow, just barely), and I have decided to go ahead and do a build right and make sure everything is good to go instead of just putting a MHG on or throwing a composite on.
Ok, the engine was supposedly replaced with a rebuilt 7m three years ago, and I have a little paperwork on it. After taking the block and head apart, I have verified this. Everything looks exceptional and done by either Toyota or at least professionally. The head pretty much looks brand new...brand new cams and when running it's extremely quiet :icon_surp. The crank journals are incredibly smooth plus the block and everything else looks good.
I did have some pretty old hoses, thermostat leak, and CPS needs rebuild kit. I think my power steering rack is also going out, going to try to fix that now too. Here is what I'm planning on doing during rebuild (I really would like to go all out, but $$$ is making me conservative, but I don't want to decide in the near future that I want something else and pull it again):
Machine work, metal head gasket, clutch line (I had to cut it during removal), replace the clutch (already have ACT pressure plate stored away), thermostat/housing, belts, Possibly Pistons / rods (if still resuable, which from my inspection I think they will be) depending on budget, clevite bearings, new gasket set, ARPs, power steering, and oil filter relocation.
Now, is there anything else you think I'm missing on or I should go ahead and add while I'm at this point? I was really surprised by how good this 7m looks.
I also have another question concerning pistons/rods. Sometime in the future I could see myself going forged pistons (probably Probe), but right now that's really pushing my budget. I don't want to have to do this, and then decide to go that route and pull it again so soon. My question is if I do go ahead with forged pistons, do I have to buy rods (such as Eagle) as well? A friend of mine said the stock rods are good up to 700hp and just wanted to verify this. As well as running the forged pistons and stock rods together.
For reference, here is my mod list pertaining to this rebuild:
CT26 57 Trim (which I could see replacing in the future)
550cc RC fuel injectors
Lexus AFM housing (I am going to go MAFT-PRO s/d in the future though)
LIPP adapter for open airfilter
Driftmotion IC (not sure of dimensions but it is pretty thick)
2.5 in aluminum IC piping
Mishimoto Radiator
Walboro Fuel Pump
SAFC-II (am trying to sell now, going MAFT-PRO)
3in Downpipe /w Wideband
Full 3in Cat delete exhaust
AEM Tru-Boost EBC
Upgraded bypass valve (I've also got a BoV for when I go s/d)
If I can think of anything else, I'll add it in. My goals are eventually to get around 400 or 500hp. I would start a build thread, but I'm bad about not taking pictures and updating as I go. Thanks in advance.
Also, here's a pic for ya'll of pulling it out on Sat.
Notice how the turbo is missing, I took it out and was just going to do a head gasket without taking the engine out, but then decided to just go ahead and pull it
Ok, the engine was supposedly replaced with a rebuilt 7m three years ago, and I have a little paperwork on it. After taking the block and head apart, I have verified this. Everything looks exceptional and done by either Toyota or at least professionally. The head pretty much looks brand new...brand new cams and when running it's extremely quiet :icon_surp. The crank journals are incredibly smooth plus the block and everything else looks good.
I did have some pretty old hoses, thermostat leak, and CPS needs rebuild kit. I think my power steering rack is also going out, going to try to fix that now too. Here is what I'm planning on doing during rebuild (I really would like to go all out, but $$$ is making me conservative, but I don't want to decide in the near future that I want something else and pull it again):
Machine work, metal head gasket, clutch line (I had to cut it during removal), replace the clutch (already have ACT pressure plate stored away), thermostat/housing, belts, Possibly Pistons / rods (if still resuable, which from my inspection I think they will be) depending on budget, clevite bearings, new gasket set, ARPs, power steering, and oil filter relocation.
Now, is there anything else you think I'm missing on or I should go ahead and add while I'm at this point? I was really surprised by how good this 7m looks.
I also have another question concerning pistons/rods. Sometime in the future I could see myself going forged pistons (probably Probe), but right now that's really pushing my budget. I don't want to have to do this, and then decide to go that route and pull it again so soon. My question is if I do go ahead with forged pistons, do I have to buy rods (such as Eagle) as well? A friend of mine said the stock rods are good up to 700hp and just wanted to verify this. As well as running the forged pistons and stock rods together.
For reference, here is my mod list pertaining to this rebuild:
CT26 57 Trim (which I could see replacing in the future)
550cc RC fuel injectors
Lexus AFM housing (I am going to go MAFT-PRO s/d in the future though)
LIPP adapter for open airfilter
Driftmotion IC (not sure of dimensions but it is pretty thick)
2.5 in aluminum IC piping
Mishimoto Radiator
Walboro Fuel Pump
SAFC-II (am trying to sell now, going MAFT-PRO)
3in Downpipe /w Wideband
Full 3in Cat delete exhaust
AEM Tru-Boost EBC
Upgraded bypass valve (I've also got a BoV for when I go s/d)
If I can think of anything else, I'll add it in. My goals are eventually to get around 400 or 500hp. I would start a build thread, but I'm bad about not taking pictures and updating as I go. Thanks in advance.
Also, here's a pic for ya'll of pulling it out on Sat.
Notice how the turbo is missing, I took it out and was just going to do a head gasket without taking the engine out, but then decided to just go ahead and pull it
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