Hi ive had my MKIII for about 4 months now and i have a safcII, AEM wideband, intercooler and a turbonetics TE04 Stage 5 turbo. I wanna rebuild my motor this spring and since its my first build i was unsure of what i needed for it. I wanna do .20 over forged pistons and eagle rods. 272 cams, BC springs & retainers. Can anyone help with telling me what i need to get to reach 550 t0 600hp? like bearings, type or valve seals (etc) or anything you can think of. Also besides having the block bored .20 over and decked(head decked too) i should probably have the crank polished right? Im unsure so if you have any info for me it would be Greatly Appreciated. :1zhelp:
First 7mgte Rebuild
- Thread starter suprakid93
- Start date
You're not limited to these parts but this is a setup I have seen work.
CP Pistons (Avoid Probe)
Eagle Rods
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Stud
Clevite Bearings (Reboxed NDC Bearings)
Metal Head Gasket (Cometic,HKS,Titan)
BC 264 Cams (Optional)
Springs And Retainers(BC)
Mild Port And Polish
67MM Turbo(Precision,Comp)
Single T4 Turbo Manifold
External Wastegate(Tial,HKS,Blitz)
Blow Off Valve (HKS,Tial,Blitz)
Minimum Of 750CC Injectors(RC,Precision,ID1000)
Fuel Pump(Walbro, Bosch 044)
Tuning
-AEM V1 Plug And Play
-ProEFI Is Not Plug And Play
Front Mount Intercooler
3" Exhaust
Machine Work
CP Pistons (Avoid Probe)
Eagle Rods
ARP Head Studs
ARP Main Stud
Clevite Bearings (Reboxed NDC Bearings)
Metal Head Gasket (Cometic,HKS,Titan)
BC 264 Cams (Optional)
Springs And Retainers(BC)
Mild Port And Polish
67MM Turbo(Precision,Comp)
Single T4 Turbo Manifold
External Wastegate(Tial,HKS,Blitz)
Blow Off Valve (HKS,Tial,Blitz)
Minimum Of 750CC Injectors(RC,Precision,ID1000)
Fuel Pump(Walbro, Bosch 044)
Tuning
-AEM V1 Plug And Play
-ProEFI Is Not Plug And Play
Front Mount Intercooler
3" Exhaust
Machine Work
Thanks for the help! Sorry i failed fail to mention i have a cometic HG, ARP head studs,T4 manifold and HKS super sequential BOV, a HKS external wastgate and a full 4in exhaust. But i did have a question. I heard that the wiseco pistons are better than the Cp pistons because the skirt is longer than CP's and it will eliminate the ping on a cold start? Is that correct or a Cp's the best way to go?
I found a place in Plainfield IL that does block work and i asked him if he has done a 7m before he said ya. Has anyone heard anything about PerRace engines? Just seeing what everyone thinks. Dont wanna have a bad shop do it.
I am not sure about Illinois but maybe some members will chime in. You are about 7 hours away from Ohio. Don at Accelerated Performance is well know in the Supra world for his engine. You could gather all the parts and make a drive to drop it off and then pick it up.
Every machine shop will say they know what they are doing but only a select few actually do. If I ever do a 1000HP 2JZ, I'd let Don at Accelerated Performance do it. He is well known for his 2JZ, whether it is a 3.0, 3.2 or 3.4, they all have hit past 1000 and lasted a season or more of drag racing.
Its all about the piston to wall clearance when you are talking about piston slap. Weisco, CP and JE are good. JE slap the most if the clearance is not set right when machining is done but ALL pistons will do this.
Here is his website.
http://www.acceleratedperformance.com/
Every machine shop will say they know what they are doing but only a select few actually do. If I ever do a 1000HP 2JZ, I'd let Don at Accelerated Performance do it. He is well known for his 2JZ, whether it is a 3.0, 3.2 or 3.4, they all have hit past 1000 and lasted a season or more of drag racing.
Its all about the piston to wall clearance when you are talking about piston slap. Weisco, CP and JE are good. JE slap the most if the clearance is not set right when machining is done but ALL pistons will do this.
Here is his website.
http://www.acceleratedperformance.com/
Does he liek to assemble them too or just do the motor work? But ok ill get ahold of him and see what he says about doing a 7m. And would you happen to know price ranges? oh ok ya thats true. the clearances just have to be right, But thanks ill look into the shop a little. 7 hours for somone that knows what there doing isnt bad! would rather drive to get a good job
Also make sure he has a torque plate.
And have you considered a crank scraper? At high power levels I'm fairly certain a good crank scraper will make a HUGE difference. Also there are really great piston/eagle rod combos for sale on ebay. I just purchased my JE pistons with Eagle rods from them. Just search Eagle rods with ____ pistons and you'll see. Only vendor that has the combo deal. I believe his current rate is 1299 for CP's and eagle rods with arp bolts.
And have you considered a crank scraper? At high power levels I'm fairly certain a good crank scraper will make a HUGE difference. Also there are really great piston/eagle rod combos for sale on ebay. I just purchased my JE pistons with Eagle rods from them. Just search Eagle rods with ____ pistons and you'll see. Only vendor that has the combo deal. I believe his current rate is 1299 for CP's and eagle rods with arp bolts.
ya ive looked on there. there is some good deals. The guy from Accelerated performance said he could get me Cp pistons and eagle rods for about $1000 and i have ARP's. And i have never heard of a Crank Scraper? Ill look it up.
suprakid93;1798034 said:
He will machine the block and if you want him to assemble it as well, he does that too. He assembles motors all the time and there has not been any bad reviews from him as his machine shop opened up SPECIALIZING in Supra motors and his 2JZ have proven he does. Just bring all the parts at once or the main stuff. I recommend before buying any more parts, shoot him an E-Mail and list everything you intend to buy, he can most likely get you a discounted price as he sells parts and can get them from his dealers as well, so a package deal is most likely. E-Mail him.
Pistons
Rods
Block
Head
Crank
Main Caps
ARP Main Studs
Cams
Springs/Retainers
Tensioner and Bolt (Needs To Be Bolted To Block Before Decking. Just Let Him Know Incase)
Front Timing Plate (Needs To Be Bolted To Block Before Decking. Just Let Him Know Incase)
suprakid93;1798151 said:
Whoops! I just saw this. See, he can get you deals. Trust me, deal with Don. He will explain anything you ask. Two important things that are 7M specific are the front timing plate needs to be bolted to the block before having it decked as the head sits on it and the tensioner will need to be bolted to it as well.
I knew the rear lower timing cover needed to be attached during machining but why the tensioner?
Ya i talked with him on the phone today and he said he would send me an email on prices tomorrow for Eagle rods, Cp pistons, .20 over head, block deck and dipped and polish and balence crank, clevite 77's and ARP main studs (since i have head studs already) but im just waiting, hoping he doesnt say an outrageous amount ha. But ya he explained everything about what he does and his experience and what he has and would put in a deal for me. I told him i was recomended and he asked by who but i couldnt say a name. But Thanks for sending me his info. Sounds like a great person to have do motor work!
Thats cool. He hasn't done work for me BUT I have friends who have had their motors done by him and they are all happy. Keep in mind....I am in NY and its a 10 hour drive each way.
A drive that long is not bad, just get a few friends where you can either take turns driving or to keep a conversation going since those long 100+ miles before an exit straight pieces of road gets pretty boring.
I like driving, so I do the ten hours myself just as long as I have music. Actually, all of my Supras have been bought out of state except 1. If you never driven out of state before, do it as you will get your block and motor done by someone professional AND see some nice places while traveling there. Obviously, you could price out the fuel/food cost for a round trip and see if shipping the head and block assuming he gets all the other parts would be cheaper. If not, hop in the car, turn on the GPS and go.
A drive that long is not bad, just get a few friends where you can either take turns driving or to keep a conversation going since those long 100+ miles before an exit straight pieces of road gets pretty boring.
I like driving, so I do the ten hours myself just as long as I have music. Actually, all of my Supras have been bought out of state except 1. If you never driven out of state before, do it as you will get your block and motor done by someone professional AND see some nice places while traveling there. Obviously, you could price out the fuel/food cost for a round trip and see if shipping the head and block assuming he gets all the other parts would be cheaper. If not, hop in the car, turn on the GPS and go.
ok .20 over sounds good then. But ya im like 7 1/2 hours away lol and i like to drive too so ya friends would have to go though. Keep some company. I drove 4 1/2 hours north to get my car in Wisconsin and it was an awesome drive. so I would like to take it there to see things, and just get away for a day. But i havent got his email yet so ill give him a call tomorrow and let you know the price and see what you/everyone thinks.
Ofcourse. Long drives are nice, allows you to see places.
I suggest you list all the parts you need to get, use my list on the first page as a reference but not limited to that. I assume you would want him to assemble the motor and you can bolt on all the accessories and electronics.
I am not sure if the cometic gasket will hold 500-600HP, maybe Ian can chime in here on that.
If you let him get all the aftermarket parts, you would need to bring the following parts to him at minimum.
Create a build thread when you start! EGR can be deleted at this level and an EMS will also be need BUT that can be discussed later.
I suggest you list all the parts you need to get, use my list on the first page as a reference but not limited to that. I assume you would want him to assemble the motor and you can bolt on all the accessories and electronics.
I am not sure if the cometic gasket will hold 500-600HP, maybe Ian can chime in here on that.
If you let him get all the aftermarket parts, you would need to bring the following parts to him at minimum.
Create a build thread when you start! EGR can be deleted at this level and an EMS will also be need BUT that can be discussed later.
- Head
- Block
- Crank
- ARP Head Studs/Main Studs- Since You Have Them
- Shims and Buckets - High lift cams would need shimless buckets but high lift is not needed for your power level. Comments?
- Main Caps - (Bolt To Block Before Milling/Boring)
- Front Timing Plate (Bolt On Block Before Milling)
- Timing Belt Tensioner And Bolt (Bolt To Block Before Boring)
ya i would prolly have him assemble the motor so everything is right, but i was thinkin a greddy or HKS gasket, ha but i will create a build thread so you and everyone can see. But you think i would need a EMS? my safc i wouldnt be able to run with that much power? But ill take both of your listings and go off those and etc